I got in on the Jan 1st special and purchased a set of Mach 5 Mli-65 mids. I've been planning a 2 way setup for my S10 that will run these mids, a passive crossover, and the North D25 tweeters. This will run off of either 2 channels of a Punch 600.4, or one of my Van Gough 600's. The setup is going into the door panels on an MDF baffle board that I'll be building soon. My question here is these tweeters are a low FS design and run at 6 ohm, the mids are 4 ohm. I found a set of Boston passive crossovers that're rated at 2700hz and I'm assuming they're rated at 8 ohm, here's the link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Boston-Acoustics-2-Way...1QQcmdZViewItem

If these are rated at 8 ohm, that should give me an 1800hz crossover point on the tweeters correct? I'm still debating on if I should chance a set of these crossovers, or if I should just fab up seperate crossovers for the tweeter, and the woofer. I already have the mids, but I haven't purchased the tweeters or crossovers yet. The NorthD25's just seemed like the best deal going for a Low Fs tweeter to mate up with these mids.

Thanks in advance guys.

Edited January 4, 200817 yr by Brian10962001

NO. Go active or build a custom those are your only two choices. You cannot buy something off the shelf and have it work worth a shit at all.

Are you saying no because you actually checked out the crossovers I linked, or is that just your opinion on the subject regardless? I'm not going active, I don't have a seperate set of channels to dedicate to running these tweeters, I personally think that's wasteful to begin with. I don't have anything against building seperate crossovers for each driver if that's really the only way I should go.

NO. Go active or build a custom those are your only two choices. You cannot buy something off the shelf and have it work worth a chit at all.

I didn't go to the link, but BA is one of the companies that will actually put things to correct their speakers instead of just some crossover components. Either way if you think active is wasteful you really don't quite understand what is actually in a crossover...trying to use a non-specific crossover to a driver and its mounting considerations is extremely wasteful. You will leave so much capability of the drivers on the table and have a bunch of money into something that doesn't work well. It would be sort of like trying to ride a snowboard using crosscountry ski bindings, sure you could do it but it doesn't help anything.

Alright let me make sure we're on the same page here, by active setup you mean running an active pre amplifier crossover and dedicating a pair of channels to the tweeters alone correct?

Alright let me make sure we're on the same page here, by active setup you mean running an active pre amplifier crossover and dedicating a pair of channels to the tweeters alone correct?

yes that is what he means.

Alright let me make sure we're on the same page here, by active setup you mean running an active pre amplifier crossover and dedicating a pair of channels to the tweeters alone correct?

yes that is what he means.

What're you all using for crossovers at that high of a frequency? If I did go active then I have to dedicate another amplifier for my subwoofers or I could mix and match the Rockford amp for the highs and run one of the Van Goughs to the subs. I don't really get why it's so much more of an advantage to run an active setup than a passive setup if the slopes are correct and the you're running 2nd order like I was planning.

The reasoning behind going active is this:

1) Without installing the drivers, and trying different crossover points, you cannot truly determine what type of crossover slope, -3dB point, notch filter or zobel you might need.

2) Active allows for much easier system changes, for example if you want to try out another tweeter or mid.

3) Allows for pin point L/R & mid/tweet level control & time correction if needed (and have time correction capable HU).

4) Since it is electronic, impedance changes are not an issue as a passive network would be.

5) Cheap passive crossovers can add noise & other harmonics to the system, especially if using a cheap components. Also, component tolerances are very much in play.

You also don't lose any power in the signal due to heat that the crossover creates

You also don't lose any power in the signal due to heat that the crossover creates

So what are you running for the tweeter high pass? I really don't want to stick a cheap crossover in line with my good head unit and good amplifiers. I'm currently running a Kenwood Excelon KDC X791. Is there by chance a setup that has an acctive crossover and a decent EQ that I can pick up for a decent price?

It is by far easiest and cheapest to have a headunit that already has that control, off board processors will usually absorb a few hundred dollars or more.

It is by far easiest and cheapest to have a headunit that already has that control, off board processors will usually absorb a few hundred dollars or more.

What head units provide a crossover that goes over 18khz?

Not sure why that is important to you since if you are over 15 I highly doubt you can hear 18k. Your answer is none.

Not sure why that is important to you since if you are over 15 I highly doubt you can hear 18k. Your answer is none.

I meant 1.8, I missed the period. I've never seen a head unit with a high pass that goes anywhere near that. The highest I've seen them go to is around 250hz. I just want to know who's building head units to do this kind of setup.

Why you would want to hp that low is beyond me. Every deck that is active capable can lp plenty high, and can overlap with the hp. Find one that you are interested in & read the manual.

Why you would want to hp that low is beyond me. Every deck that is active capable can lp plenty high, and can overlap with the hp. Find one that you are interested in & read the manual.

Ok I'll give this one last shot; I need a crossover for the HIGHS at 1.8khz if I'm going to run an active setup, what the heck are you talking about being "active capable" If I'm not going to run an external crossover, my amp doesn't have a crossover multiplier so it's not going to get anywhere near that, and we're not running a passive here, what head unit is going to give me this type of crossover point? I really don't get what you all are saying. I fully understand how to run a crossover and I understand where I need my points set and the value of them being adjustable but no one is answering the question I asked, WHO is making "Active Capable" head units? Are you using something else to set crossover points?

Why you would want to hp that low is beyond me. Every deck that is active capable can lp plenty high, and can overlap with the hp. Find one that you are interested in & read the manual.

Ok I'll give this one last shot; I need a crossover for the HIGHS at 1.8khz if I'm going to run an active setup, what the heck are you talking about being "active capable" If I'm not going to run an external crossover, my amp doesn't have a crossover multiplier so it's not going to get anywhere near that, and we're not running a passive here, what head unit is going to give me this type of crossover point? I really don't get what you all are saying. I fully understand how to run a crossover and I understand where I need my points set and the value of them being adjustable but no one is answering the question I asked, WHO is making "Active Capable" head units? Are you using something else to set crossover points?

Ok I searched on my own to figure out exactly what you meant by active capable, I was believing you meant a fully adjustable highpass for 2 channels and a fully adjustable bandpass (or lowpass) for 2 channels (front and rear most often) then a subwoofer line. I have a Kenwood Excelon X790 and it has an active crossover that I utilize in my setup already but the top frequency it can to go on highpass is 220 for the front and rear channel. So even though my deck is "active" it apparently won't work for a dedicated 2 way setup on a set of components. This brings me back to my dilema, either passive crossover or outboard active crossover and adding 2 pairs of additional channels to my current setup. Is there another option for this? Like the old Xmod filters that go inline to the RCA's possibly? Also would a fully active capable head unit have crossover points that were more adjustable than what I currently have? If so I'm assuming these are on Alpine and Eclipse high end head units.

Edited January 7, 200817 yr by Brian10962001

Yep, tons of units that are capable, but not so many that are currently available.

Eclipse 7000/7100, Alpine 9887, Pioneer 880prs, Clarion DRZ9255 (also the 77x or something, but it doesn't bandpass), Ural CDD and of course I am leaving something off, but basically that is the list of ones that actually have real crossover points and not some stupid misnomered highpass for components. Those will all bandpass a mid and highpass a tweeter.

The cheapest off board proc is the XM-6 which you can find for about $50. It still isn't ideal in my book though and the next real jump is over $100 in which case you would be much better off selling the Kenwood and buying a different deck.

Yep, tons of units that are capable, but not so many that are currently available.

Eclipse 7000/7100, Alpine 9887, Pioneer 880prs, Clarion DRZ9255 (also the 77x or something, but it doesn't bandpass), Ural CDD and of course I am leaving something off, but basically that is the list of ones that actually have real crossover points and not some stupid misnomered highpass for components. Those will all bandpass a mid and highpass a tweeter.

The cheapest off board proc is the XM-6 which you can find for about $50. It still isn't ideal in my book though and the next real jump is over $100 in which case you would be much better off selling the Kenwood and buying a different deck.

I plan to keep my deck, and after investigation I've found that an active crossover and adding 2 channels to my truck is cheaper than doing good passive crossovers plus it's WAY more adjustable. I still need to purchase the tweeters but I'm not doing a thing until the mids I have show up. I do have a question, the Lanzar 3 way crossover is said to have over 100db S/N ratio but they're known to over rate their stuff. Would I be better off sticking with the Coustics unit, or does anyone have any history with the 3 way active crossovers they offer?

The lanzar is a piece of crap as are some of the Coustics. You have to be a bit careful when buying processors...

I am also curious as to what Coustic/Lanzar you are looking at that you think can do a 3 way?

The lanzar is a piece of crap as are some of the Coustics. You have to be a bit careful when buying processors...

I am also curious as to what Coustic/Lanzar you are looking at that you think can do a 3 way?

Either the Coustics MX6 or the Lanzar Vibe X6. I know how to set up an active 3 way I just hand't considered doing that until it was brought up on here. I thought it would be cheaper to just go passive but it won't be if I use decent components. I plan to do the external crossover but I hear the Coustics units tend to be hit or miss with giving ground loop problems, I can't really find anything about the Lanzars but they're so known for over rated products I was definetly leary of it (why I asked on here); and the only other thing in that price range is the Clarion. Below that is a ton of flea market brand crap that I wouldn't even want to chance trying.

The lanzar is a piece of crap as are some of the Coustics. You have to be a bit careful when buying processors...

I am also curious as to what Coustic/Lanzar you are looking at that you think can do a 3 way?

Either the Coustics XM6 or the Lanzar Vibe X6. I know how to set up an active 3 way I just hand't considered doing that until it was brought up on here. I thought it would be cheaper to just go passive but it won't be if I use decent components. I plan to do the external crossover but I hear the Coustics units tend to be hit or miss with giving ground loop problems, I can't really find anything about the Lanzars but they're so known for over rated products I was definetly leary of it (why I asked on here); and the only other thing in that price range is the Clarion. Below that is a ton of flea market brand crap that I wouldn't even want to chance trying.

The XM6 won't do a 3 way front, just a 2 way + sub. If you want a real one look for an XM7 or DX28.

The XM6 won't do a 3 way front, just a 2 way + sub. If you want a real one look for an XM7 or DX28.

That is what I meant by 3 way. I'm doing the Mli65 mids and the North tweeters, no midrange I'm just going with the 2 way front stage in MDF build outs on the lower door panels. I meant the subwoofers as the 3rd part. I realize how I worded that incorrecctly now. I got the Mli65's in the mail today, they're VERY nice looking little mid woofers. So far the plans are to pick up the North Tweeters this week, and whatever crossover I decide on next week. Build plans are to run the punch 600.4 on the mids and highs and either a Punch 300S, or one of the Van Gough 600's to the pair of 10in subs behind the seat.

I went ahead and picked up a Memphis 16-X03 for 75 bucks, it's SN ratio was better than the Coustics and it came with a wired 45db bass boost which'll be nice. Plus I don't hear about ground noise issues with this unit and it's a bit smaller than the Coustics and the Clarion. Tweeters are on the way as well, I went ahead and ordered everything today. I'll keep everyone posted how this turns out.