Posted August 19, 200421 yr alrite, ive built two boxes so far. both times i have had to recut things. he reason being is im not sure how i will piece everything together as far as screwing them together....always seems that one edge will be to wide or too long.......is there a certain way that makes a stronger box or what??? or can someone make a diagram on what way is best??? (talking about how all the edges should meet)
August 20, 200421 yr yea i did this also..what u want to do is decide how u want to close ur box, for example, would be wt the pieces on the sides in the box or screwed to the outside of the box. Whenever u put a piece inside, u must acount for the width of ur board, so if ur using 1/4 mdf u would need to make sure u cut .25in more off than normal or else ur board will be sticking out.---------- | |----------ok so u want it to be 10in high right well ur inside piece should be 9.50 if u use 1/4. that way it will come out to equal 10 instead of 10.50in.. make since.
August 26, 200421 yr Using 3/4" MDF, it would look something like so:....(The numbers are: external/internal.)
August 27, 200421 yr holla at me on AIMs i have an idea....are you trying to build a ported box or sealed???????jamie
August 28, 200421 yr Using 3/4" MDF, it would look something like so:....(The numbers are: external/internal.)No offense, but I'm not a fan of designs like this at all, for some practical reasons:Primarily, if you lay out your enclosure like that, you've completely inset the baffle panel... and over time, your subwoofer's violent in-and-out cone motions do jackhammer on those joints, potentially causing stress fractures at the joints, or cracking and leaking if the enclosure wasn't perfectly built.I prefer to overlap my baffle panels over all other panels - top, bottom, and sides.I then overlap my top and bottom panels over the side panels... leaving the side panels of course inset on all sides, overlapped by all other panels.Building the box this way ensures maximum strength and build quality. Here's a quick diagram (sometimes I recess my side panels as well, to facilitate carpeting with a little more seamless appearance):
August 28, 200421 yr Using 3/4" MDF, it would look something like so:....(The numbers are: external/internal.)No offense, but I'm not a fan of designs like this at all, for some practical reasons:Primarily, if you lay out your enclosure like that, you've completely inset the baffle panel... and over time, your subwoofer's violent in-and-out cone motions do jackhammer on those joints, potentially causing stress fractures at the joints, or cracking and leaking if the enclosure wasn't perfectly built.I prefer to overlap my baffle panels over all other panels - top, bottom, and sides.I then overlap my top and bottom panels over the side panels... leaving the side panels of course inset on all sides, overlapped by all other panels.Building the box this way ensures maximum strength and build quality. Here's a quick diagram (sometimes I recess my side panels as well, to facilitate carpeting with a little more seamless appearance): yea thats how i build my boxsjamie
August 28, 200421 yr I know what you mean. The main reason I do this is for the port opening. If the front baffle is on the out side (over the top, bottom and sides) it will stick out 3/4" from the port opening and it looks something like so....You can correct the side, but then you need to make 3/4" x 3/4" pieces for the top and bottom of the port opening and then it just looks like crap. If the port is on the side or it's a sealed box...I'm with ya.
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.