I'm looking for an amp around 2500 watts @ 2 ohms or .5 ohms (but I can buy new subs to match a 1 ohm load) I'm willing to buy used. What do you guys think I should be looking for?

Sundown Audio SAZ3000D, Really Really good amp, i believe jacob has 2 used ones in his certified used equipment thread. It def. has the bang, if u got the buck.

2 Opti2000ds strapped can do ~3,200w@2ohms. $680

2 AQ2200ds strapped can do ~4,400w @2ohms, $780

For price to performance, this would be better then going with an amp that outputs it's best power @1ohm.

Those options will give you plenty of headroom for the money.

Well I really only need 2000, I was already factoring headroom with the 2500 lol. I want 2000 watts even after impedance rise basically. I don't know if it's possible, but you think I can find something for under $500?

i think u mean something before impedance rise, hehe

If you wanted an amp to do 2500w after rise, depending on what load it currently sees, you would need an amp around 3,000-8,000w, so i know that's not what u want.

For under $500... hmm, lets see-

Visonik 4000xd 4,000w @2ohm - $429 http://cgi.ebay.com/New-4000-Watt-RMS-Viso...1QQcmdZViewItem

I do not think this amp does a full 4kw so for clean power, it probably does in the high 2ks off of 13v or lower, my assumption.

Ha yeah, I want 2000 after rise... so I figured I should get an amp rated at 2500.

thats the only amp i can find to fit that budget.

Here is an example-

I used to have a 1500w amp @1ohm.

wired at 0.7 ohms(1 ohm nominal), my peak specs were-

31hz

4.3ohms

667w

That's 6x the resistance.

What if i only wanted a 600w amp?, i would have needed a 1500w amp to do that...

Resistance is high right after tuning.

Have you personally experienced a real 2000w at a peak note?

so far, i've only experienced about 1,400w at a peak note off of that same visonik as a matter of fact, back when snoopdan first moved to my area of town.

that 667w got me a 144.3db reading on AC mic.

If you are trying to get a certain wattage rating after rise to match subs thermal handling, make sure the subs you are comparing are rated that way!

Most subs are rated by amplifier power BEFORE rise, not after rise.

If you are looking for subs rated AFTER rise, look into Audioque. I have personal experience with their equipment and know that's how they rate them. Oh... and DD as well since they are built by the same place.

I'd have Fi Q15's with BP... I don't know how they rate them. I was getting 700 watts after rise playing a 50Hz tone with my Sundown Audio SAE-1000D.

Edited March 23, 200817 yr by themerc

Viper D2500.1

Anyone that wants to say it's crapola should really shut it.

Yea but i dont think that is even made anymore and is impossible for me to find new.

Maybe I should get an oscope before I do anything to make sure I'm getting full power. There's a VELLEMAN HPS10 going for $125 on ebay... Item number: 180023929587

the exact same one i got.

I use that to setup my amps and for metering with my spl meter.

that o-scope can read millivolts (.001volts) at 1\10th of a millivolt(.0001volts) with a resolution of 0.0002-0.0003 volts. i like it a lot for the purpose of what i use it for.

You won't find out your actual power by this alone.

You need this to setup your amps properly.

You need this or a DMM AND an ammeter to find out your wattage output.

I have this... http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_0...P?keyword=73756 so if I get the velleman will I be all set?

Edited March 23, 200817 yr by themerc

you should be all set.

Just remember when measuring output of amp, dont set ammeter to peak hold or you will not get accurate output readings.

Okay I ordered it. When it come sin we'll see how much power I can get out of that 1000D, and if I'm able to turn it up more, I'll just get another 1000D.

look for a used MD3

don't be shocked if your clean output power is a lot lower than expected.

don't be shocked if your clean output power is a lot lower than expected.

If you are looking for subs rated AFTER rise, look into Audioque. I have personal experience with their equipment and know that's how they rate them.

That's really interesting how they can do that - considering impedance rise is a function of the enclosure the driver is in...

Maybe they're just assuming everyone uses the manufacturer's recommended enclosure?

basically, yea.

I tell this story a lot but their was a competitor over on DbDrag who used AQs HD3 12s, 2 12s off of 2 Hifonic Colossus amps!

He actually went out their to do a test for me before i was convinced to buy 1... then another one but his results came back- just a hair over 2,200w actual power.

This was his daily driver by the way. It blew me away on how he was able to get away with that setup but he had no problems.

thats why i say i did that test with max clipping around 1100w and the sub(AQ), never got warm or any other type of stress.

That 1000wrms rating is a joke if u ask me. I never ran any more power than that because i didn't have any more amp power available.

but all in all, they dont have to expect everyone to use recommended enclosure.

Rating is a thermal rating, not mechanical.

My Orion 2500d is a beast....

can be had for around $400 ebay, FYI.

that's at 1ohm though.

yeah but it will do .5 or whatever... right? others have...

besides, I had it wired to 4 ohm, and it popped a 300A breaker... So it made just a little bit of power even at that load. dropping down doesn't really get you that much more... "diminishing returns"

for the $ the orion can't be beat imo.

My oscope came in. I need to figure out how to use it before tomorrow (SBN 2008).

shizzzon, can you give me a quick run-through how to use it?