Posted April 6, 200817 yr I was having problems with duel alternators on my 05 hummer basically the computer would shut them off when I would plug in the second alt.Coming to find out I was not alone lots of people have a similar voltage problem.I am wondering how many more people have this problem.GM has a new 80% charging set point 13.8volts is all the computer will allow your system to charge.Anyone else having problems all makes and models info welcome.
April 6, 200817 yr only thing i can think of is to start callin alt specialists, like the ones we all consider on this forum and ask them if they have a solution for your vehicle.
April 7, 200817 yr Author only thing i can think of is to start callin alt specialists, like the ones we all consider on this forum and ask them if they have a solution for your vehicle.We fixed my problem I'm trying to find out how many people have the same problem and (don't know it ) and with what type of vehicles we developed a curcuit board module to solve my issue I am now able to run both alternators at 16.2volts with no computer lights charging 13 kinetic 2400 batteries.I need some commets and ideas to try and help fellow car audio nuts with their voltage drop.Wanting feedback and trying to let people know that their alternators may not be working or not at full potintial.We were at spring break iasca last weekend found alot of compettitors with the voltage problem.Just trying to help, few people realize when your voltage drops your amps draw dc current which just heats up your subs with little or no volumn gain.Better alternator power fixes alot of this by keeping a fuller charge longer.Thank you for the post MLA
April 7, 200817 yr i have a 200 amp alt on my 94 chevy silverado, its an iraggi, but it has trouble keeping up with my 2 viair 380 compressors for my air bags. i also have an optima yellow top group 34 under the hood and a group 31 in the cab. i thought this would be enuff to keep up but it cant with lights, compressors, and sound on at low rpms. sound isnt on loud. 1/0 wiring for amps, 8 guage for both compressors. have anything for me or are u just talkin more about getting over 14.4 voltage for spl comps??
April 7, 200817 yr few people realize when your voltage drops your amps draw dc current which just heats up your subs with little or no volumn gain.Care to explain that? The amps always draw DC current. That's what the batteries and alternator put out is DC power.
April 7, 200817 yr Author Most of the new 07+ Nissans have a similar problem.Unfortantly, Forien cars we dont have an awnser for yet but were working on one.We have a module we developed for the demo hummer for ascendent audio for sema07 . We boost the voltage up to 15.5v to give fuller charge to after market high performance batteries like kinetic, optima,ect... Our hummer has duel alts. running @ 16.2volts charging 13-kinetic 2400's with 20,000watts to audio.My power to the amps is stronger and stays above 14.5 when demoing.Currently Steve meade recieved one he is running all 4 alternators from a single module his battery light is gone and he never drops below 14.7 he loves it.Stock or high current alternators will work on our unit.Fixes newer GM computer warning lights.Also usefull for off road wenches and lights.Our site missinglinkaudio.com ( Thanks Mark from SSA for previewing our product.
April 8, 200817 yr i think he means output from amp turns into dc which is bad.And is also wrong...the amp clips sooner, but that is not DC...close but not DC
April 8, 200817 yr Author i have a 200 amp alt on my 94 chevy silverado, its an iraggi, but it has trouble keeping up with my 2 viair 380 compressors for my air bags. i also have an optima yellow top group 34 under the hood and a group 31 in the cab. i thought this would be enuff to keep up but it cant with lights, compressors, and sound on at low rpms. sound isnt on loud. 1/0 wiring for amps, 8 guage for both compressors. have anything for me or are u just talkin more about getting over 14.4 voltage for spl comps??Im sure we can help would need you to check as to which plug you have the dogleg four ,or the straight four.By adding 1volt to your charging system you gain around 200 more continious watts to your system.
April 8, 200817 yr Author i think he means output from amp turns into dc which is bad.And is also wrong...the amp clips sooner, but that is not DC...close but not DCYour out put on your amp is ac,but in low voltage situations some amps produce a dc bias or dc offset which will lead to heat build up in subs.Hope this helps sorry for the veage reply.
April 8, 200817 yr how are you running 16.2v without melting the wireing in the cars/trucks electrical system...i was told if i get 15v in my 2000 ford Explorer it would fry the computer...Helpppppppppppppp please, i cannot even find a dual alt bracket for my F explorer
April 8, 200817 yr If you'd install externally regulated alternators, you'd have none of these problems. Most people use an external regulator in these types of setups. I wouldn't trust the computer in the car to charge such a massive setup. Having a regulator gives you full control over the charging.
April 8, 200817 yr Author how are you running 16.2v without melting the wireing in the cars/trucks electrical system...i was told if i get 15v in my 2000 ford Explorer it would fry the computer...Helpppppppppppppp please, i cannot even find a dual alt bracket for my F explorerI thought the same thing until I looked in my owner's manual where it says between 11- 18 volts was safe for the electrical system.Naturally when you first start your car (cold) your alternator will run up 15 plus volts factory we just make this increase permanent.We run both on the hummer no problems if I thought it would fry I wouldn't use it after all I still owe on it.Your alternator will still function as far as backing off when hot and when batteries are full just at a higher voltage. MLA
April 8, 200817 yr Author If you'd install externally regulated alternators, you'd have none of these problems. Most people use an external regulator in these types of setups. I wouldn't trust the computer in the car to charge such a massive setup. Having a regulator gives you full control over the charging.Your car will see both set ups, after all your car runs off the battery which sees your power via internally or externally regulated alternators and which your battery runs your car so regulators control your alt then powers your battery the computer will still read the same to your electronics. So yes your right but externally you still haven't fixed your computer problem.This is for people who have newer cars and will get warning lights from their computer.Also for people who don't want to mess with the external option and want to use their stock alternator and or stock set up with high output alt.You will still have the internal regulator which will regulate your power just with better stronger charge.The new GM cars some in 03 all since 05 have a 80%charging rule,and which would kick out when I would plug in my second alternator.So we developed our unit to take back control of the alternators.We also work on older set ups.We can get a wide range of voltage set points from 14v to 24v to accommodate most needs.MLA
April 10, 200817 yr Author how would i go about doing this on my 2000 ford Explorer ?Fords are easy with the module you will need to splice 1 wire from the A side of your alternator.Mount the unit and connect the ground wire from the module run the wire harness to you alt. connect your splices (connectors included) to our yellow wire.Enclosed is all these instructions and no worries just call we can walk you through it if you'd prefer.Thanks MLA
April 10, 200817 yr how are you running 16.2v without melting the wireing in the cars/trucks electrical system...i was told if i get 15v in my 2000 ford Explorer it would fry the computer...Helpppppppppppppp please, i cannot even find a dual alt bracket for my F explorerActually all OBDII equipped vehicle can handle up to 24V in case of spikes. Of course it is ONLY for spikes, but 15 Volts will present no problem to any of your electronics in your vehicle. What I could worry most about is overheating/charging a standard 12 volt battery at that voltage.
April 10, 200817 yr Author how are you running 16.2v without melting the wireing in the cars/trucks electrical system...i was told if i get 15v in my 2000 ford Explorer it would fry the computer...Helpppppppppppppp please, i cannot even find a dual alt bracket for my F explorerActually all OBDII equipped vehicle can handle up to 24V in case of spikes. Of course it is ONLY for spikes, but 15 Volts will present no problem to any of your electronics in your vehicle. What I could worry most about is overheating/charging a standard 12 volt battery at that voltage.We have our first ever module on a 1997 ford 3g it has been on the truck nearly four years now @ 15.3v his battery is 8 years old and hasn't happened yet I don't see a issue with this.Your alternator still has the ability to back off when hot and or when your batteries are full.Our unit will shut down as well @ 160 degrees.If your trying to compare 15.5 continuous to 24v spike thats huge the cars red zone is around 17.5 you will be way under that.I have never seen a alternator spike that much.If your car is in a cold climate it may charge .5 to max a volt for a few minuets till temp raises.When charging at 15.5v your battery should rest around 13.5 right at full charge.My batteries set at 14v even with charging at 16.2v.Please let me know of all your concerns so we may help you to understand we look at safety first.Thanks (MLA)
April 10, 200817 yr Author So is this an advertisement for your product?Not trying to be, just want people to know there are awnsers for voltage drops since no one had awnsers for me when I had questions.MLA
April 10, 200817 yr If you posted in actual sentences it would make the solution a bit more believable.
April 10, 200817 yr Author If you posted in actual sentences it would make the solution a bit more believable.The solution of what? Maybe you can develop a sentence checker for us lesser newbie's thanks
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