ill have about 100-130$ for deading front doors.

ive got a dynamat extreme 36^2 foot (bulk) kit in the trunk. which is enough just barly enough for my arsensal.

what would be a good product to cover front doors with my budget?

i was thinking about getin another dynamat extreme bulk kit for doors.

http://www.secondskinaudio.com/vibration-m...lifier.php#tab5 and the pro version is what people love and after seeing some vids i understand why

DE is significantly overpriced, you are much better off with 2nd skin.

im guessing it take about 8-10 square foot of it to cover a door.

so sould i go with 2 layers of damplifer or 1 layer of pro??

I would do 2 layers of damp personally but both options would work very well.

k thanks. hope to selling my spare assassin and placing an order in 1-2 weeks.

I was looking to hit my doors as well. So about 8-10 Sqft should cover them with two layers

ive got a pretty good size door on my car. i figured 8-10 per layer but i havent made any messurements. i gona order the 40 sq ft of damp. so i can get 1 complete layer on each door and use the rest equally, and as most effective as possible.

Edited April 28, 200817 yr by lithium

ive got a pretty good size door on my car. i figured 8-10 per layer but i havent made any messurements. i gona order the 40 sq ft of damp. so i can get 1 complete layer on each door and use the rest equally, and as most effective as possible.

That sounds perfect... 40sq.ft. should be more than enough to do the doors, you could probably get away with 20sq.ft. if you only do one layer. Make sure you get the outer door skin as well as the inner one.

i was wondering about doing the outer door skin. so a layer on both? my car seems to get alittle moisture in the door from rain. will that be a problem after applying?

As long as you don't cover the water drains on the bottom of the door, you will not have a problem. I used 2 layers on the internal skin & 3 layers on the outside skin w/ a layer of closed cell foam. I also used a thinner deadener, so if you go with the Pro, a single layer each will probably be fine.

I still recommend doing a noise absorption layer on top of it all.

I would also add that sealing up the large access holes on your inner door skin ( where the door panel mounts ) with some acrylic plastic or sheet metal before you deaden. And then deaden over that as well. Sealing up your doors does wonders for your midbass

damn thats hardcore.... ill see what i can do.

I would also add that sealing up the large access holes on your inner door skin ( where the door panel mounts ) with some acrylic plastic or sheet metal before you deaden. And then deaden over that as well. Sealing up your doors does wonders for your midbass

In my case, I did deadener on both sides of the big hole, facing each other. Works quite well, but can be a challenge to install. But easier than welding something in place (for me, anyways).

or another option if your decent with fiberglass, tape off the hole so that you are following the contours of the hole, lay down some glassmat and resin it in several layers. trim it so that the outside of the plug is slightly larger than the hole, get some adhesive backed thin weather stripping, stick it to the back of the plug around the edges and screw the plug in place. best way to do that is to deaden up to the holes you built the plug for, trim it so its flush around the opening, and reinstall the plug then deaden the plug as well. you will have a deadened removable plug so that you can still have full acess to window regulators and motors down the road so that you can still replace parts w/o having a ton of cutting to do to get back into your door if a motor or lock solenoid should ever go out....

I would also add that sealing up the large access holes on your inner door skin ( where the door panel mounts ) with some acrylic plastic or sheet metal before you deaden. And then deaden over that as well. Sealing up your doors does wonders for your midbass

In my case, I did deadener on both sides of the big hole, facing each other. Works quite well, but can be a challenge to install. But easier than welding something in place (for me, anyways).

Plastic can be easily molded to the exact shape of the door with a heat gun, and is completely removable

thanks for all the advice. ill see what i can do. i think ill do straight deading. i havent use fiberglass yet. i like that idea with the plastic but it sound just as tricky. im goin for an competion quality install here and so i think a good layer or 2 of damp will do the trick.

just finished the mdf baffles to fit my 6.5" woofers in the stock 5.25 location. its kind of a nigger rig but sould work just fine...

Heating up a sheet of plastic with a heat gun is nowhere near as involved as fiberglassing All that's literally involved is sticking the piece up to the metal and heating to conform to the panel...or if you have a relatively flat door like I do, I just used a combination of Liquid Nails to provide the initial tack to the metal, then CA to hold it in place. But having a solid surface really is helpful.

I liked that fiberglassing idea. I'll have to do that with my car when I get it (camaro's are notorious for window motors going bad).

I liked that fiberglassing idea. I'll have to do that with my car when I get it (camaro's are notorious for window motors going bad).

It's actually the wiring; they make kits to upgrade it though.

I liked that fiberglassing idea. I'll have to do that with my car when I get it (camaro's are notorious for window motors going bad).

It's actually the wiring; they make kits to upgrade it though.

pm me a link if you can. I might have my Z28 this week.

I liked that fiberglassing idea. I'll have to do that with my car when I get it (camaro's are notorious for window motors going bad).

It's actually the wiring; they make kits to upgrade it though.

pm me a link if you can. I might have my Z28 this week.

I'll have to ask my mechanic friend about it. I'll get back to you.

i'd show ya pics of my work in progress on the fiberglass plugs, but the camera be broken. its a trick that i learned from another installer bud of mine years ago then was recently reminded of it. works slick as chit

I'm sure you'll be happy with Secondskin's products, def a higher quality dampener, I did my trunk, rear deck and rear sides, when I have time I'm throwing the extra in my doors.

I did one layer of Damplifier Pro on everything, and it worked real good, less layers, less labor is why I like it.

I would also add that sealing up the large access holes on your inner door skin ( where the door panel mounts ) with some acrylic plastic or sheet metal before you deaden. And then deaden over that as well. Sealing up your doors does wonders for your midbass

ive always wondered if this is still true with door pods. Every time i think about it it doesnt make sense unless you useing stock speaker mounting