Well as Sean knows, I've been beating myself up over what speakers to replace my Blose in my 06 Silverado. Some of these questions are truck specific that I know Sean will be able to answer and the rest I'm sure theres a handful of you that can chime in. I finally am deciding on the Pioneer 720prs's but have very little knowledge in what to do for the install.

-The bose are 6.5's and the 720's are 6.75's so I'm not sure what I'll need to do exactly to fit the 720's

- I have a JL 300/4 and a Avic D3 for the speakers to pair up with, but what exactly will I need to do? Is it as simple as:

-take out old speakers, screw in new (or will I need to make a baffle out of MDF or something?)

-solder stock wires to new speakers

-run speaker wire to amp from speakers, power/ground amp, remote/rca's to head unit.

I'm a newb to the whole passive vs active cross overs.... If I choose to run active, what changes in the install? Do I need to buy extra parts?

Edited July 9, 200817 yr by dropkick13

If you're going to use the JL, then you will have to run new wire to the new speakers.

The only way you'll know what you have to do to mount them is to remove the door panel and old drivers and see if the Pios will mount in place. If not, then you'll have to come up with a way to make them work by modifying the current mount, or making a new one all-together.

As for the passive/active, the passive will of course require running the speaker cable from the amp to the crossover and then from the crossover to the speakers. Running active would remove the crossover and run cable directly to the speakers and tune with the HU and/or built-in crossovers on the amp.

Well you know how I feel, but here is a link for you:

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...ic=6582&hl=

Passive vs Active:

- Sean really feels I should go active. Can't I still use the EQ on my D3 to tune the speakers whether I have the passive cross over or not?

- I've asked this before but I forget the answer, what's the ideal speaker wire size to use?

- Sean, that tutorial was extremely helpful, especially when my funds come in for sound deadening (can't wait to get rid of exhaust/road noise). So let me get this straight: Raamat is used for resonance so I assume its a mass dampener, and ensolite is open cell foam which absorbs 'sound waves' out of the air correct? Then I'll probably fiberglass over openings in the door. I do have a question about the baffles you made. How did you secure the baffle to the metal door? It looked like it was only held by the modeling clay but I assume you ran some screws through the door right?

- I think my biggest worry about the install will be running the speaker wires from amp to head unit. Currently I have a scosche wire harness to allow the D3 to work w/ the BlOSE. I got scammed on the harness however. The ignition wire stays hot no matter what so I had to rig a switch to kill power when I get out of my truck...looks terrible. Anyway, with the new speakers, I should be able to get rid of my harness but I did not do the D3 install. When I rip out the harness, where will each D3 / speaker wire from amp need to be connected to each other? I also need a new ground location because I'm getting terrible engine noise (that annoying hum), any recommendations? Also, I had originally planned on leaving in the rear bose speakers and fading them out, except for when I have rear passengers. I'm assuming that once I remove the harness, the rears won't work right? Not a big loss there but just making sure there's nothing worth my time that I can do to keep the rears.

Thanks guys, sorry I have so many small, annoying questions

guess this is not a hot topic

The wires aren't that big of a deal to run. 16ga is fine as you don't have that much length anyways.

The damping/absorption you nailed pretty well although I will add there are more effective methods than Ensolite.

Your eq will still work since in your case you will be using the amps for their crossovers.

The wires aren't that big of a deal to run. 16ga is fine as you don't have that much length anyways.

The damping/absorption you nailed pretty well although I will add there are more effective methods than Ensolite.

Your eq will still work since in your case you will be using the amps for their crossovers.

what do you use to absorb airborn soundwaves?

An acoustic absorber.

The real answer is it depends on where and more importantly your budget.

-The bose are 6.5's and the 720's are 6.75's so I'm not sure what I'll need to do exactly to fit the 720's

You might have to cut the door metal slightly to accommodate for the larger diameter. But its not big deal I used a jigsaw, cut like butter.

You can check out my build to see how I fit the C6's in my doors...

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...mp;#entry393510

An acoustic absorber.

The real answer is it depends on where and more importantly your budget.

I'm going to throw a little behind my front mid bass speakers and then my next attempt will be to minimize my loud exhaust and road noise, so I guess the floor and back wall. Perhaps even rear doors?

-The bose are 6.5's and the 720's are 6.75's so I'm not sure what I'll need to do exactly to fit the 720's

You might have to cut the door metal slightly to accommodate for the larger diameter. But its not big deal I used a jigsaw, cut like butter.

You can check out my build to see how I fit the C6's in my doors...

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...mp;#entry393510

I'm trying to leave my truck so it can go back to stock if need be. I havn't peeled off my door cover yet but I'm hoping I have at least enough room for a 1/2" MDF ring for a baffle

Mine can go back to stock easy and there is a 3/4" baffle; however, I did trim some of the plastic for the door card but all of the trimming is hidden beneath the stock grill.

Mine can go back to stock easy and there is a 3/4" baffle; however, I did trim some of the plastic for the door card but all of the trimming is hidden beneath the stock grill.

Will a 3/4" baffle be a lot more beneficial to a 1/2". I assume the short answer is 'yes', but with a 1/2" baffle I could use a little more modeling clay to try to make up for some of the decreased mass

Back to the sound deadening: what exactly is this 'open cell' as opposed to 'closed cell' foam that I've read about. I want open correct? Is it just simply the egg crate you can buy for mattress pads? Since I'm cheap, I thought about stuffing my back wall (Silverado ext cab) 100% full of this egg crate material in addition to a layer of raamat. I'll need to hit the floor with something too but might have to use second skin since egg crate will be too....uh..... poofy.

edit* woops, I see I want to use closed cell although I'm still not sure what the difference is or examples of what closed cell foams are.

Edited July 18, 200817 yr by dropkick13

Use whatever spacer you feel necessary.

As for the foam, you want CLOSED CELL so it will not absorb moisture.

Use whatever spacer you feel necessary.

As for the foam, you want CLOSED CELL so it will not absorb moisture.

What's the difference? Could you give an example of each?

Closed-cell foam:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=260-318

Open-cell foam:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=300-900

Mine can go back to stock easy and there is a 3/4" baffle; however, I did trim some of the plastic for the door card but all of the trimming is hidden beneath the stock grill.

Will a 3/4" baffle be a lot more beneficial to a 1/2". I assume the short answer is 'yes', but with a 1/2" baffle I could use a little more modeling clay to try to make up for some of the decreased mass

I wouldn't decide what size baffle to use until I did some measurements. If a 1/2" baffle will give enough room for clearance, I would use that.