I've never bought all the wires and stuff separately, I've only used those amp install kits.

Im trying to figure out how much it will cost to wire up my amp and stuff.

Orion 2500D.

I'm going to need an alternator, I was thinkin a universal alternator... I can make brackets for it, we have welders and stuff and I can weld. Reason why is I have an engine coming sooner or later for the truck, and its a different engine than what is in it. So I'll just make a new bracket for the other engine.

I want to run the secondary alt seperate than the existing charging system, and have it dedicated to 1-2 batteries and the amp will run off those batteries.. Not sure what batteries eiter, would want something I can buy locally. They do not have the yellow or blue Optimas, nor do I want to spend that much on batteries.

I need to know what terminals and stuff I need, all that stuff. Whatever I need to wire up that amp, and do a big 3 and stuff..

I've never bought all the wires and stuff separately, I've only used those amp install kits.

Im trying to figure out how much it will cost to wire up my amp and stuff.

Orion 2500D.

I'm going to need an alternator, I was thinkin a universal alternator... I can make brackets for it, we have welders and stuff and I can weld. Reason why is I have an engine coming sooner or later for the truck, and its a different engine than what is in it. So I'll just make a new bracket for the other engine.

I want to run the secondary alt seperate than the existing charging system, and have it dedicated to 1-2 batteries and the amp will run off those batteries.. Not sure what batteries eiter, would want something I can buy locally. They do not have the yellow or blue Optimas, nor do I want to spend that much on batteries.

I need to know what terminals and stuff I need, all that stuff. Whatever I need to wire up that amp, and do a big 3 and stuff..

Would your stereo be going in the cab or the bed? if it's in the bed(obviously need more cable that way)

I would purchase about 20' of 0 awg in one color for the power lead, then another 20' for front to rear ground, then another 10' for additional connections from alt to battery, etc. You can cut the length down about 25% if its going in the cab rather then the bed. Terminals for the second battery, circuit breaker or fuse holder & fuse, probably about 250 amps. another fuse holder to go after secondary battery if you wanna be extra safe. Then you will need about 8-10 1/0g ring terminals, thin wire like 18g for remote turn on, 0 gauge into 4 gauge dist. block x 2, about 10 feet of 4 awg each for power and for ground, if you are doubling up on lengths. RCA cable, again, if in the back of the truck prob 17 ft or so will be good, if in the cab then less. Speaker cable, at least 12awg. Use marine deep cycle batteries if you need a temporary cheaper alternative to an optima. i know thats a pain in the ass list to follow but hopefully it helps a little

Edited September 4, 200817 yr by manbeer

I've never bought all the wires and stuff separately, I've only used those amp install kits.

Im trying to figure out how much it will cost to wire up my amp and stuff.

Orion 2500D.

I'm going to need an alternator, I was thinkin a universal alternator... I can make brackets for it, we have welders and stuff and I can weld. Reason why is I have an engine coming sooner or later for the truck, and its a different engine than what is in it. So I'll just make a new bracket for the other engine.

I want to run the secondary alt seperate than the existing charging system, and have it dedicated to 1-2 batteries and the amp will run off those batteries.. Not sure what batteries eiter, would want something I can buy locally. They do not have the yellow or blue Optimas, nor do I want to spend that much on batteries.

I need to know what terminals and stuff I need, all that stuff. Whatever I need to wire up that amp, and do a big 3 and stuff..

Would your stereo be going in the cab or the bed? if it's in the bed(obviously need more cable that way)

I would purchase about 20' of 0 awg in one color for the power lead, then another 20' for front to rear ground, then another 10' for additional connections from alt to battery, etc. You can cut the length down about 25% if its going in the cab rather then the bed. Terminals for the second battery, circuit breaker or fuse holder & fuse, probably about 250 amps. another fuse holder to go after secondary battery if you wanna be extra safe. Then you will need about 8-10 1/0g ring terminals, thin wire like 18g for remote turn on, 0 gauge into 4 gauge dist. block x 2, about 10 feet of 4 awg each for power and for ground, if you are doubling up on lengths. RCA cable, again, if in the back of the truck prob 17 ft or so will be good, if in the cab then less. Speaker cable, at least 12awg. Use marine deep cycle batteries if you need a temporary cheaper alternative to an optima. i know thats a pain in the ass list to follow but hopefully it helps a little

no need for 2 distro blocks.... you can come stright off the rear cell into a fuse and then into the amp.....

marine deep cycle batteries are not normaly sealed..... you need to be sure thay are sealed AGM cells SEALED.

shop around you dont have to buy high priced ones but you need to keep your amp hours in mind... get a better plan of what excatly your gonna do and then go from there.

I've never bought all the wires and stuff separately, I've only used those amp install kits.

Im trying to figure out how much it will cost to wire up my amp and stuff.

Orion 2500D.

I'm going to need an alternator, I was thinkin a universal alternator... I can make brackets for it, we have welders and stuff and I can weld. Reason why is I have an engine coming sooner or later for the truck, and its a different engine than what is in it. So I'll just make a new bracket for the other engine.

I want to run the secondary alt seperate than the existing charging system, and have it dedicated to 1-2 batteries and the amp will run off those batteries.. Not sure what batteries eiter, would want something I can buy locally. They do not have the yellow or blue Optimas, nor do I want to spend that much on batteries.

I need to know what terminals and stuff I need, all that stuff. Whatever I need to wire up that amp, and do a big 3 and stuff..

Would your stereo be going in the cab or the bed? if it's in the bed(obviously need more cable that way)

I would purchase about 20' of 0 awg in one color for the power lead, then another 20' for front to rear ground, then another 10' for additional connections from alt to battery, etc. You can cut the length down about 25% if its going in the cab rather then the bed. Terminals for the second battery, circuit breaker or fuse holder & fuse, probably about 250 amps. another fuse holder to go after secondary battery if you wanna be extra safe. Then you will need about 8-10 1/0g ring terminals, thin wire like 18g for remote turn on, 0 gauge into 4 gauge dist. block x 2, about 10 feet of 4 awg each for power and for ground, if you are doubling up on lengths. RCA cable, again, if in the back of the truck prob 17 ft or so will be good, if in the cab then less. Speaker cable, at least 12awg. Use marine deep cycle batteries if you need a temporary cheaper alternative to an optima. i know thats a pain in the ass list to follow but hopefully it helps a little

Thanks for your reply!

The box and amp will be in the bed, aswell as the extra batteries. I'm pretty sure I can get RCAs, remote wire, and speaker wire locally.is there a website that would be able to sell me all this?

My truck is a reg cab shortbox.

I've never bought all the wires and stuff separately, I've only used those amp install kits.

Im trying to figure out how much it will cost to wire up my amp and stuff.

Orion 2500D.

I'm going to need an alternator, I was thinkin a universal alternator... I can make brackets for it, we have welders and stuff and I can weld. Reason why is I have an engine coming sooner or later for the truck, and its a different engine than what is in it. So I'll just make a new bracket for the other engine.

I want to run the secondary alt seperate than the existing charging system, and have it dedicated to 1-2 batteries and the amp will run off those batteries.. Not sure what batteries eiter, would want something I can buy locally. They do not have the yellow or blue Optimas, nor do I want to spend that much on batteries.

I need to know what terminals and stuff I need, all that stuff. Whatever I need to wire up that amp, and do a big 3 and stuff..

Would your stereo be going in the cab or the bed? if it's in the bed(obviously need more cable that way)

I would purchase about 20' of 0 awg in one color for the power lead, then another 20' for front to rear ground, then another 10' for additional connections from alt to battery, etc. You can cut the length down about 25% if its going in the cab rather then the bed. Terminals for the second battery, circuit breaker or fuse holder & fuse, probably about 250 amps. another fuse holder to go after secondary battery if you wanna be extra safe. Then you will need about 8-10 1/0g ring terminals, thin wire like 18g for remote turn on, 0 gauge into 4 gauge dist. block x 2, about 10 feet of 4 awg each for power and for ground, if you are doubling up on lengths. RCA cable, again, if in the back of the truck prob 17 ft or so will be good, if in the cab then less. Speaker cable, at least 12awg. Use marine deep cycle batteries if you need a temporary cheaper alternative to an optima. i know thats a pain in the ass list to follow but hopefully it helps a little

no need for 2 distro blocks.... you can come stright off the rear cell into a fuse and then into the amp.....

marine deep cycle batteries are not normaly sealed..... you need to be sure thay are sealed AGM cells SEALED.

shop around you dont have to buy high priced ones but you need to keep your amp hours in mind... get a better plan of what excatly your gonna do and then go from there.

There is Energizer AGMs availible here. I'll see what I can get through Battery Direct.

The 2500D requires 2 power connections and two grounds..

is that a question?

you dont need a distro block...... you have two + wires... fuse them and take them to the rear cell... you have 2 - wires... take them to the cell... no need for distros.

There is Energizer AGMs availible here. I'll see what I can get through Battery Direct.

The 2500D requires 2 power connections and two grounds..

is that a question?

Statement.

so your saying I wouldn't need a distro block to go from battery to amplifier? errr.. nevermind.

http://www.batterydirect.com/batteries/sealed_lead_acid/20 I can get Battey Direct locally. I have a Battery Direct Platinum in my truck now.

Edited September 4, 200817 yr by Gearstix

D122000 thats a killer one! 200 a/h

im not sure how much draw your amp has nor what it requires

you dont need a distro block...... you have two + wires... fuse them and take them to the rear cell... you have 2 - wires... take them to the cell... no need for distros.

So I'd run 4 gauge from the amp>battery?

D122000 thats a killer one! 200 a/h

im not sure how much draw your amp has nor what it requires

Do you need a link to a PDF of the owners manual?

Edited September 4, 200817 yr by Gearstix

amp+-------- fuse-------- (rearcell)

---fuse--------------------fuse---front cell---alt

amp+--------fuse---------(rear cell)

see what im sayin

year send that manual

amp+-------- fuse-------- (rearcell)

---fuse--------------------fuse---front cell---alt

amp+--------fuse---------(rear cell)

see what im sayin

year send that manual

Front cell? Why would I need a front cell? I want the second alt to charge the stereo bat(s) only.

http://www.orioncaraudio.com/Support/Manua...ual%2047410.pdf

amp+-------- fuse-------- (rearcell)

---fuse--------------------fuse---front cell---alt

amp+--------fuse---------(rear cell)

see what im sayin

year send that manual

Front cell? Why would I need a front cell? I want the second alt to charge the stereo bat(s) only.

http://www.orioncaraudio.com/Support/Manua...ual%2047410.pdf

you dont need to do that but in that case ---fuse----------fuse------- alt

all a distro block will so is bottle neck your power flow.

looks like you should run atleast 100 ah IMO

amp+-------- fuse-------- (rearcell)

---fuse--------------------fuse---front cell---alt

amp+--------fuse---------(rear cell)

see what im sayin

year send that manual

Front cell? Why would I need a front cell? I want the second alt to charge the stereo bat(s) only.

http://www.orioncaraudio.com/Support/Manua...ual%2047410.pdf

you dont need to do that but in that case ---fuse----------fuse------- alt

all a distro block will so is bottle neck your power flow.

looks like you should run atleast 100 ah IMO

I'm sure if I had a wiring diagram or something I'd understand it better. I might draw one up on the laptop of what I think your saying...

hehe, if u want to know kille batts...

Check out Lifeline batteries.

Their Group 8D is rated for 255aH and i can get those batts for around $400. They float around 13.2-13.4v and can burst from 1100 to 1900 CA from 0 to 68 degrees so perfect for daily bumpin.

They weigh about 165 lbs per batt but are the best price to performance spec-wise i have ever seen.

hehe, if u want to know kille batts...

Check out Lifeline batteries.

Their Group 8D is rated for 255aH and i can get those batts for around $400. They float around 13.2-13.4v and can burst from 1100 to 1900 CA from 0 to 68 degrees so perfect for daily bumpin.

They weigh about 165 lbs per batt but are the best price to performance spec-wise i have ever seen.

lol. I don't think I'd need something like that..

whats the point of the sealed batteries? is it so they dontlet of gass?

hehe, if u want to know kille batts...

Check out Lifeline batteries.

Their Group 8D is rated for 255aH and i can get those batts for around $400. They float around 13.2-13.4v and can burst from 1100 to 1900 CA from 0 to 68 degrees so perfect for daily bumpin.

They weigh about 165 lbs per batt but are the best price to performance spec-wise i have ever seen.

lol. I don't think I'd need something like that..

whats the point of the sealed batteries? is it so they dontlet of gass?

yeah gases are the #1 and then also leakege... some cells when played hard or charged fast will boil over for lack of a better term and if a cell were to some how tip over and leak,... ooo nooooo you dont want that..

shizzon.. those sounds like some bad ass cells is that what your using?

hehe, if u want to know kille batts...

Check out Lifeline batteries.

Their Group 8D is rated for 255aH and i can get those batts for around $400. They float around 13.2-13.4v and can burst from 1100 to 1900 CA from 0 to 68 degrees so perfect for daily bumpin.

They weigh about 165 lbs per batt but are the best price to performance spec-wise i have ever seen.

lol. I don't think I'd need something like that..

whats the point of the sealed batteries? is it so they dontlet of gass?

yeah gases are the #1 and then also leakege... some cells when played hard or charged fast will boil over for lack of a better term and if a cell were to some how tip over and leak,... ooo nooooo you dont want that..

shizzon.. those sounds like some bad ass cells is that what your using?

Which of the Battery Direct ones would you use? I will see if my dad can get a quote for me.

I guess I'd buy all the wiring and stuff from KnuKonceptz?

hehe, if u want to know kille batts...

Check out Lifeline batteries.

Their Group 8D is rated for 255aH and i can get those batts for around $400. They float around 13.2-13.4v and can burst from 1100 to 1900 CA from 0 to 68 degrees so perfect for daily bumpin.

They weigh about 165 lbs per batt but are the best price to performance spec-wise i have ever seen.

lol. I don't think I'd need something like that..

whats the point of the sealed batteries? is it so they dontlet of gass?

yeah gases are the #1 and then also leakege... some cells when played hard or charged fast will boil over for lack of a better term and if a cell were to some how tip over and leak,... ooo nooooo you dont want that..

shizzon.. those sounds like some bad ass cells is that what your using?

Which of the Battery Direct ones would you use? I will see if my dad can get a quote for me.

I guess I'd buy all the wiring and stuff from KnuKonceptz?

or on ebay.. or at a welding supply store.....

No, i use XS Powermasters.

I would use Lifeline but they are just a little big bigger than what i could fit in my car.

The amp needs 4 gauge power and negative right? so couldn't I use this to hook the amp to the battery( http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KFX-AK4 ), and then use 0/1 or so to go from the secondary separate alternator to the rear battery? How many batteries would I need?

Edited September 5, 200817 yr by Gearstix