I saw a sale for another axis for half off so i jump on it. Eventually ill be filling the back of the car with a big ported box, buf for now wanted to have some fun and build a sealed box, i hope it holds together.

all cut up

center brace

low on glue and i didnt wanna go back to walmart. solution..cut up the bottle

getting the first one out of its box

that looks good

Glad to see you braced, but with so little space on the baffle I personally would have used 3 layers of mdf not one.

Also, generically speaking you should make your braces asymmetrical as well.

I've never understood bracing the corners/edges. Where two pieces meet (let alone three) and go different directions are where your box is already the strongest. The middle of the panels are what is weak and flexes.

Glad to see you braced, but with so little space on the baffle I personally would have used 3 layers of mdf not one.

Also, generically speaking you should make your braces asymmetrical as well.

since the whole front is pretty much two holes im goin to add some layers on the inside, where the subs bolt one.

and are you sayin asymetrical like not a perfect circle but rather some oblong shape.? in one of my manufacturing classes i saw that rounds are strongest, with offset patterns, even better.

i didnt know you could seal those subs.

I've never understood bracing the corners/edges. Where two pieces meet (let alone three) and go different directions are where your box is already the strongest. The middle of the panels are what is weak and flexes.

i just wanted some insurance, ive never done a sealed box with this much power, im goin to add more to the center brace too, but from the pics, you can see i ran out of glue

i didnt know you could seal those subs.

my box designer prog reccomends sealed for these, but this box was just for fun, to see what they sound like sealed.

o aiight what amp/amps are you running them on?

o aiight what amp/amps are you running them on?

for now its just goin to be one sundown 3000 @ .5 ohms

good looking setup, i'm seriously wanting to grab one of the 50% off 10" Revo's at PE but i can't really drop the money on 2, i know i'll get tired of just having one pretty fast and by that time i'd have to pay full price for another

they are so frekin sexy though!

good looking setup, i'm seriously wanting to grab one of the 50% off 10" Revo's at PE but i can't really drop the money on 2, i know i'll get tired of just having one pretty fast and by that time i'd have to pay full price for another

they are so frekin sexy though!

suck the axis are back to full price, but those 10's are startin to make me want one for that price, but hey.. what are credit cards for right. haha

A problem has arised. I finished the box, wired it up, wired it to 8 ohms to test it in my house, and it didnt play.

here a link to the thread about it: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=22900

ok. build is haulted for a while, because the one of the coil from my older sub was blown due to a problem a while back when the pos and neg wires got shorted out.

here are the rest of the pics i have though:

wired to 8 ohms to test. which lead me to find out my problem

Evidence of what happened

It could be whats left of your tinsel lead.

It could be whats left of your tinsel lead.

the burn spot. or the shavings. it looks like the shavings came out of a hole for the bolt to hold the basket on.

Nice looking box

I agree with ///M5 that you should use one or two layers more on the baffle.

i didnt know you could seal those subs.

You can seal any sub. The question is how well it will perform...

ill have to add another when ever i ressurect this project

this box is back on the table. but with a twist. Ive decided to get a replacement basket assembly, but audiopulse has horrible customer support, cant get in touch over the phone and no response from email. So it may take a while for that. But Im goin to use the old basket assembly and convert it to a passive radiator. with a variable weight somehow(ive got a few ideas).

But I do have a question. I was reading up on tuning PR boxes, and it says the cone mass/weight should be the same as the equivalent weight of air that would fill the port length of that frequency. So this imaginary port, is its port area the same as the area of the woofer cone?. Im thinking it is but would like to make sure.

Some good PR info:

http://www.aespeakers.com/PRFAQ.php

In short, PRs should have 2x the Vd of the driven speaker.

Some good PR info:

http://www.aespeakers.com/PRFAQ.php

In short, PRs should have 2x the Vd of the driven speaker.

thanks for the site. I think I read about using a 2 to 1 pr to woofer ratio on another site too, but i only have one blown sub for now. and i figure it needs a recone anyway so I can really do anymore damage to it now.

Edited November 16, 200816 yr by fritosaregood

Today I worked on all the math to figure out how much mass the cone needs.

First for a 12.72" dia port at 25 hz it is 118.59" long. with a total area of 8.72 ft^3

Mass of air is 0.034091 kg/ft^3 at 20degC

So I need the mass of the cone to equal .29729kg or 297.27g also .65519 lb

but, the cone already has a mass of 390g.

Does all this seem right.

I thought I would have to add mass, but it looks like I need to remove some.

i like that idea the whole haveing the wires out side of the box i think i am going to do that so i can change things up without having to dick with taking the sub out

Well as far as the PR went, i put it in a box with 4 E8s,

now this dual axis box is gettin finished up. First i have to say before when i said audiopulse had horrible customer service i was kind of wrong. I got to email thilo and he offered to help me out, but i also in touch with Mike Singer and he let me get a hold of one of his Axis top assemblies. So thanks to Mike for helpin me finish this up.

pics...

and a short vid. wired all in series to 8 ohms seeing only 250 watts, playin some test tracks.