Just bought this package but with the 10 inch sub, can't be happier with what i received. Even better than what i was expecting.

Package

Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet I just ordered my 15.

SSD, Dual1, CopperCoil.

I'm going to be running it @ 2ohm obviously.

Couldn't be happier.

edit: I forgot to mention my dad was really hesitant, he didn't want me to buy a sub from a brand name he has never heard of.

I tried to explain to him its all hand crafted quality stuff, but I figured I'll just let him hear it in person and see if that changes his view.

Edited December 23, 200816 yr by ShaneSauce

great choice

Great choice man iv loved my Fi since day one.

I need a little help everybody.

I'm not going to run coax on the front doors.

But my door is only 4" and I don't know of any good component sets for 4".

I'm thinking 4" mid bass in the door and some nice dome tweeters in the pillars.

But I'm gonna leave my 6 1/2" coax's in the rear deck just because of money, and they sound really nice and clear on 50 watts.

Last question, how would I go about powering all of this?

I would have 6 channels.

Edited December 23, 200816 yr by ShaneSauce

cdt cl-41/19 but they are 99 a set. you should only need 4ch unless you go active 1 channel per crossover powers the mid and tweet.

Oh so each speaker doesn't get a channel?

Each crossover does?

Well that's convenient, thanks for the help.

Oh so each speaker doesn't get a channel?

Each crossover does?

Well that's convenient, thanks for the help.

yup. maybe you can fabricate an adapter to fit 6.5's on the front doors. because the 4's won't really have a good midbass response.

also don't forget to deaden your doors. even just the front doors if you are on a budget.

Phoenix Gold RSD 6.5's thats what i am running.

http://cgi.ebay.com/PHOENIX-GOLD-RSd-65cs-...A2%7C240%3A1318

$67 shipped. can't go wrong with it.

it also has some awesome midbass.

Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet I just ordered my 15.

SSD, Dual1, CopperCoil.

I'm going to be running it @ 2ohm obviously.

Couldn't be happier.

edit: I forgot to mention my dad was really hesitant, he didn't want me to buy a sub from a brand name he has never heard of.

I tried to explain to him its all hand crafted quality stuff, but I figured I'll just let him hear it in person and see if that changes his view.

Nice choice. I might have missed it but what amp are you using for the SSD?

I'm positive I could fit a 6 1/2" in the front door it would just take a little grinding, I'm pretty sure there is enough clearance for the window also.

And the amp is probably going to be a kicker zx750.1 or a USAMP MD-1D.

Heck maybe even a refurb SAE-1000 if I get lucky.

I got $85 from my aunt, I am probably going to go ahead and get the amp wiring, and I was gonna put the rest into some deadening for the trunk at least until I can deaden the doors and everything.

Noob question.

Here are some pics so I can better explain it.

Alright, my factory speakers have a triangular type mount as you can see in the first picture.

My aftermarket 4's have 4 mount spots and they don't come close to the factory mount spot as you can see in the last picture.

Can I just make my own screw holes in the metal?

In the last picture that's my crappy kenwood in the mount spot, you can't see it in the pic but there is actually a small gap. Like if the hole was any bigger the 4" would just fall right through the hole.

I'm wondering what is the best way to get a 6 1/2" in the door, grinding the hole out?

I put my 6 1/2" kenwood in and the only thing in the way is the basket, so I would have to grind out about a inch on each side.

Now onto the noob question, the wiring harness.

Can I just crimp the connections instead of buying a wiring harness?

Edited December 24, 200816 yr by ShaneSauce

Finally got the head unit, usb interface and whatnot.

:bigclap:

I'm glad it has a remote, a little easier to adjust the gains and tune everything.

x2 on the PG rsd's. very nice for the money. what i recommend is trying to take some mdf and making some rings to mount the speakers. i went from a factory 5.25" into a 6.5" with on 3/4" ring. if you look at the circle left in the door panel, you could cut along that line and attach the mdf ring to the door metal, ive seen people use no hardening clay to seal it up aswell. not sure if you factory grill could go back on but you could make one or buy one on parts express.

there was a build log on here that try to find a link to. that should how you do the ring.

all you need is a jig saw or router. im going to redo mine with the new router my dad got for xmas.

Edited December 25, 200816 yr by lithium

You can cut a hole in the metal, and you can drill a hole in the metal. Just make sure theres nothing on the other side.

And you should just get a harness, its easier to work off of, and its only like $10.

couldnt find the log i was looking for...

this might give you an idea..

link

Just some random pics really...

From the back

Box in the trunk, I think I could have squeezed out a little more space

edit: don't think that is extra trunk space on the sides its actually a curved trunk on the inside and that's the max width I could go with

Well my SSD is predicted to be here Wednesday so you can bet I'll have pics of it when it gets here.

All there is left to do now is get the 4 channel amp and order the sub amp and we should have it slamming in the next 2 weeks.

Edited January 3, 200916 yr by ShaneSauce

What amp are you going with again?

Not too sure.

Maybe kicker zx750.1

Or this

800 @ 2ohms perfect for the SSD and its underrated

Either would be a good choice

I'd take the Kicker given the choice. That SSD is going to annihilate that little car. haha

Nooby question here.

Is a lower signal to noise ratio better?

Or is a higher signal to noise ratio better?

Like the kicker is 95db signal to noise, is that good?

Nooby question here.

Is a lower signal to noise ratio better?

Or is a higher signal to noise ratio better?

Like the kicker is 95db signal to noise, is that good?

Higher is better. That's why some of the old ZED Audio Hifonics amps were the best on the market with their 115db sn ratio, as well as the 90's US Amps that were around the same rating.

thanks for all the help guys I don't know where I would be without you guys, lol

Should I fire the port towards the cabin or towards the trunk?

My dad wants to do port towards cabin so it doesn't rattle as much, but I remember hearing doing port back will give more output.

???

thanks for all the help guys I don't know where I would be without you guys, lol

Should I fire the port towards the cabin or towards the trunk?

My dad wants to do port towards cabin so it doesn't rattle as much, but I remember hearing doing port back will give more output.

???

You wont know which is louder till you try them all. Just keep moving it around till you like how it sounds

TYPICALLY sub and port back yields more output in a trunk, it allows the sound wave to develop more. Yes it will rattle but you should deaden it anyways.