Posted January 4, 200916 yr I had 2 15" Alpine type r's but now, come to my discovery, i had 16 guage wire running from the amp to the subs...What size should i get for a 15" FI BTL? running a little under 2000 watts?12?10 to be safe?ohhhh... the amp says "speaker terminals (molded) 12 ga."i measured, and i could easily fit up to 5 ga. Edited January 4, 200916 yr by sandsnip3r
January 5, 200916 yr Author can i do knukonceptz's 8 gauge (805 strands of Oxygen Free Copper)?http://cgi.ebay.com/KnuKonceptz-Silver-8-G...p3286.m20.l1116gonna do 10ft?
January 5, 200916 yr Author could i fit 2 strands of it in the terminals of a BTL to wire it in parallel?
January 5, 200916 yr Most people use ring terminals (crimp style) to bolts through the box on the inside and then more ring terminals on the outside to the amp.
January 5, 200916 yr Most people use ring terminals (crimp style) to bolts through the box on the inside and then more ring terminals on the outside to the amp.He is talking about VC terminals.
January 5, 200916 yr Author Yeah, duran's right,BUT Altima, that is what im going to do to run the power through the box wall...will just any bolt work?
January 5, 200916 yr Yeah, duran's right,BUT Altima, that is what im going to do to run the power through the box wall...will just any bolt work?Solid brass or copper. NOT steel.
January 5, 200916 yr and and on the trminal problem, you could strip both wires down a little bit you plan on putting in there and solder them together
January 5, 200916 yr Most people use ring terminals (crimp style) to bolts through the box on the inside and then more ring terminals on the outside to the amp.He is talking about VC terminals.Yes, I know.I can do the same with my subs, I choose to run separate runs to each coil when a parrell my subs. I let the bolts connect the coils. Either way will work.
January 5, 200916 yr i just run my leads through a hole in the box and fill the gaps around the wire with heavy caulk.
January 5, 200916 yr Author thats what i did before, but it looked like balls, and all unproffesional... id like a cleaner look..
January 5, 200916 yr Steel bolts will work just fine, Check them with a dmm and see how much resistance you get.... Zero.
January 24, 200916 yr http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KAR12SSI bought the above speaker wire for my box without thinking about it being twisted. Can I just use the + and - of the wire as though they were 1 wire when wiring the subs or do I need to untwist them?Does it matter that the positive and negative are individually insulated. Can I just run it as 1 wire like from my amp + to my sub +, for instance? Edited January 24, 200916 yr by rk772
January 25, 200916 yr http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KAR12SSI bought the above speaker wire for my box without thinking about it being twisted. Can I just use the + and - of the wire as though they were 1 wire when wiring the subs or do I need to untwist them?Does it matter that the positive and negative are individually insulated. Can I just run it as 1 wire like from my amp + to my sub +, for instance?It will work.... should have just bought bigger wire....
January 25, 200916 yr I know, I'm going to call them first thing monday morning and see if they can change my order. I just wasn't thinking.
January 25, 200916 yr yeah you can twist the two wires together and use them for one lead, then twist another length to use for the other lead. I've done it before. It's just wire, it doesn't care how it's used or know the difference between whether it is + or -.
January 25, 200916 yr Yeah, duran's right,BUT Altima, that is what im going to do to run the power through the box wall...will just any bolt work?Solid brass or copper. NOT steel.I've been using steel for a long time and had absolutely no troubles with it. No point in forking out money for brass / copper bolts.
January 25, 200916 yr Yeah, duran's right,BUT Altima, that is what im going to do to run the power through the box wall...will just any bolt work?Solid brass or copper. NOT steel.I've been using steel for a long time and had absolutely no troubles with it. No point in forking out money for brass / copper bolts.I know it will work, I just prefer to use brass. Because it is more conductive.
January 26, 200916 yr Yeah, duran's right,BUT Altima, that is what im going to do to run the power through the box wall...will just any bolt work?Solid brass or copper. NOT steel.I've been using steel for a long time and had absolutely no troubles with it. No point in forking out money for brass / copper bolts.I know it will work, I just prefer to use brass. Because it is more conductive.Agreed it is more conductive. But I want to ask you this : what metal are you using as a negative conductor between your batteries ? Front to rear. I would be more concerned on the conductivity of that before beeing concerned with a 1-2 inch long bolt.
January 26, 200916 yr Yeah, duran's right,BUT Altima, that is what im going to do to run the power through the box wall...will just any bolt work?Solid brass or copper. NOT steel.I've been using steel for a long time and had absolutely no troubles with it. No point in forking out money for brass / copper bolts.I know it will work, I just prefer to use brass. Because it is more conductive.Agreed it is more conductive. But I want to ask you this : what metal are you using as a negative conductor between your batteries ? Front to rear. I would be more concerned on the conductivity of that before beeing concerned with a 1-2 inch long bolt.You do have a valid point, I just do what I can.
January 26, 200916 yr Q: Which metals are the most conductive?A:Silver: bestCopper: 9% less conductive than silverGold: 24% less conductive than copper (but doesn't tarnish or corrode)Brass is somewhere here.Rhodium: 74% less conductive than copperIridium: 77% less conductive than copperPlatinum: 84% less conductive than copperTitanium: Over 99% less conductive than copper
January 27, 200916 yr Steel is less thermally conductive than copper, meaning more power is lost due to heat
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