wtf makes it a "nice" or "right" enclosure? like everyone says that my 12" Q will sound amazing in the right box. how the hell do i find "the right" box without building multiple boxes?

any suggestions? i just see it everywhere but i don't know where to start on building a good box to get alot out of the sub?

i know the obvious, such as size. if iw as to go sealed, wouldn't pretty much any sealed box sound the same? if they were the same cuft that is. and i know theres alot of variables for ported boxes, but how do i know what sounds better then others?

i just wonna do it right the first time. i'm currently in a 1.5 cuft sealed enclosure that a local audio shop "custom" built for me, idk if thats before or after sub, they never specified and i was too much of a noob back then to know the difference and ask.

but this spring break i'm thinking about building my first box for this sub, making it ported. and going into my 1991 nissan pathfinder XE

For the Q it is really easy. Just build to their recommendations.

Well whatever you go with ... sealed or ported you should check the manufacturers website on what size box they recommend. I will agree with you that building multiple sealed enclosures won't do much good.. But as for ported, a lot of people build many until they find the sound that THEY like.

well shouldn't everyone build to teh the manufactors specs regardless?

i see what you mean by building multiple ported box's to see what you like yourself, everyone's views are different. but in my circumstance, any suggestions how i can narrow it down. basically what does each variable change in the result.

such as:

what happens if i have a 3" x 8" (for example, i really have no idea what a typical slot size is) slotted vs a 4" x 6" slot?

what is the difference between a circular port and slotted port (i'm sure this is answered multiple times. i haven't checked but it's just another example)

that kind of thing. if anyone has a link to something like this, like a FAQ, i would really appreciate it!

well shouldn't everyone build to teh the manufactors specs regardless?

Not at all, some prefer their own sound. Extremely small sealed boxes to enormous ported boxes for those competition guys. There is lots out there for you to try for yourself and figure out what YOU like. It's your music, make it sound the way you want.

well shouldn't everyone build to teh the manufactors specs regardless?

Not at all, some prefer their own sound. Extremely small sealed boxes to enormous ported boxes for those competition guys. There is lots out there for you to try for yourself and figure out what YOU like. It's your music, make it sound the way you want.

I tend to build a "tad" to big lol I love the DEEP bass.

It's all about what YOU want.

well shouldn't everyone build to teh the manufactors specs regardless?

i see what you mean by building multiple ported box's to see what you like yourself, everyone's views are different. but in my circumstance, any suggestions how i can narrow it down. basically what does each variable change in the result.

such as:

what happens if i have a 3" x 8" (for example, i really have no idea what a typical slot size is) slotted vs a 4" x 6" slot?

what is the difference between a circular port and slotted port (i'm sure this is answered multiple times. i haven't checked but it's just another example)

that kind of thing. if anyone has a link to something like this, like a FAQ, i would really appreciate it!

90% of the "manufacture recommended enclosures" I've seen are crap. Undersized and tuned too high. Aimed at the demographic of loud crap in a small package. Most people aren't willing to give up their whole trunk for bass...they see a "small box" subwoofer thinking it will actually sound good in the crappy box. I never look at the recommended specs.

so based off your guys's experience, and based on what YOU LIKE. what size box do you think would be good for keeping somewhat decent SQ (i know it wont be as good as sealed). but i want it to hit fairly hard... as hard as i can get it without losing too much SQ. any input would help. i just need to know where to start

so based off your guys's experience, and based on what YOU LIKE. what size box do you think would be good for keeping somewhat decent SQ (i know it wont be as good as sealed). but i want it to hit fairly hard... as hard as i can get it without losing too much SQ. any input would help. i just need to know where to start

well my 15 Q is "recommended" like 2.6-4 cu ft for ported and my box is 4 cubic feet and its loud and sounds pretty damn good. im thinking of flipping it around and maybe later on making a 5 cu ft box or maybe getting a 18 in a small ported box (6 cu ft).

so based off your guys's experience, and based on what YOU LIKE. what size box do you think would be good for keeping somewhat decent SQ (i know it wont be as good as sealed). but i want it to hit fairly hard... as hard as i can get it without losing too much SQ. any input would help. i just need to know where to start

I built my box to 2.3^3 ft. tuned to 32Hz. It sounded good.

Here is my 12" Fi Q in a 2.5cuft (displaced volume) enclosure tuned to 33Hz . Little box but its glued & screwed , double baffled .

Here is my 12" Fi Q in a 2.5cuft (displaced volume) enclosure tuned to 33Hz . Little box but its glued & screwed , double baffled .

nice box. how do you like the sound?

Here is my 12" Fi Q in a 2.5cuft (displaced volume) enclosure tuned to 33Hz . Little box but its glued & screwed , double baffled .

nice box. how do you like the sound?

what do u listen to.. and as far as tunning goes i stay between 31 to 36 for an average listener.. i perfer 32hrz but every car is different

the right enclosure will have a good balance of F3 and port velocity

with no interior restrictions that can get in the way of airflow

(for example widow/screen door bracing can KILL the performance of an enclosure)

even though it looks cool during the build

the more dense the material used the better also...gives an enclosure better deadness

and reduces acoustical ringing

Here is my 12" Fi Q in a 2.5cuft (displaced volume) enclosure tuned to 33Hz . Little box but its glued & screwed , double baffled .

nice box. how do you like the sound?

what do u listen to.. and as far as tunning goes i stay between 31 to 36 for an average listener.. i perfer 32hrz but every car is different

i know everyone says this, but i listen to everything. EXCEPT screemo, heavy metal, death metal, that kinda stuff i can't do. but i really listen to everything, usually depending on my mood.

but i guess to ehlp you out i mainly listen to hip hop/rnb/rap. basically, the SPL kinda music. i just don't want my subs to drown out my (crappy) front stage. i was planning on tuning it to 32hz. that seems to be everyones preference. it's mainly just box size i guess i'm worried about.

lately i've also considered selling the Q, and getting an SPL orientated sub, just to see what i like more. but i don't want to do that incase i really don't like it.

such as:

what happens if i have a 3" x 8" (for example, i really have no idea what a typical slot size is) slotted vs a 4" x 6" slot?

what is the difference between a circular port and slotted port (i'm sure this is answered multiple times. i haven't checked but it's just another example)

that kind of thing. if anyone has a link to something like this, like a FAQ, i would really appreciate it!

The larger the area of the port opening, the less velocity the air will have exiting the port.

Circular ~vs~ slot....may be the same results, usually not b/c slot ports are designed to have a

larger opening to cut down on the "huffing" sound of the port.

Aeroports utilize a flared opening on both ends to disperse the air in a wider less focused path.

Be carefull not to cut the velocity too much as this can drastically harm the woofer's performance

and ability to fire correctly.

If it were me building I'd use a slot ported design anyday over any aeroport or circular port.

The main factor in design would be that the slot port will have a much larger displacement

to factor into the final internal volume.

Having a sub in the "right" enclosure usually means:

Manufacturer specs. of net volume maintained,

all displacements calculated (added) into the internal volume, (sub, bracing, port displacements)

port (if any) properly tuned, (length, port area, proper opening ratio usually I use 7" to 1" ratio)

assembled properly using correct glues and accurate cuts..

the right enclosure will have a good balance of F3 and port velocity

with no interior restrictions that can get in the way of airflow

(for example widow/screen door bracing can KILL the performance of an enclosure)

even though it looks cool during the build

the more dense the material used the better also...gives an enclosure better deadness

and reduces acoustical ringing

what is a widow or screen door bracing? i've never heard of that. (so i know what not to do, thanks thumper)

also, is it worth putting the corner pieces in, like you do in your builds? and does it have to be at a nice 45 degree angle and perfectly square in the corner?

window bracing is kinda like it sounds...like a window pane...

Using this style bracing inside the enclosure usually reflects the sound waves

in the enclosure resulting in a physical loss of energy.

The ideal design would be a perfect ball due to the lack of banked angles..

The problem is, there's no way to actually do this using wood...

Unless you are an absolute Lumber Lord!! LOL

edge and corner bracing is easiest with 45degree angle cuts..

but, miter the corners....

so if it is recommended for 2.8-4.0 and you go say 6.0 cubes won't that make you're sub have to much excursion and sound sloppy?

It can and most likely will.

unless severly underpowered rms to the sub.

oh okayy, thats kinda what i thought about window bracing.. i've just never heard of it so i thought i'd clarify.

that would be really cool to get a ball enclosure. but for some reason, i really don't think it would work as well as it would logically sound (no banking edges). it just sounds like it would be kinda... dead?

i realize i need to use 45 degree angles on the corner bracing. i jsut don't know if it's worth it. making those cuts in my situation won't be very easy.

I usually rip strips for the corner bracing..

Rip a few when building, just try to keep a real straight line

or you'll have gaps during assembly.

Corner bracing generally takes up very little displacement too.

Miter's are easy once you get the angles right.

Actually the ball wouldn't sound "dead"..

With the less angles and degree of banking (like found in standard designs)

there is minimum loss of energy...

Everytime something banks at an angle,

it loses energy due to impact.

It's very drastic with a 90 degree angle,

less with 2 - 45 degree angles b/c the amount of initial impact is at a smaller angle each time.

even less with 3 - 30 degree angles (but who has the time for the skill level this demands)

Optimal would be a smooth radius 90 degree angle..like a curve..

I build all of my enclosure with a circular saw so I know cuts can be a B!@$&.....

A table saw would be real nice but I haven't the space for a woodshop...

Edited March 31, 200916 yr by Jay-C76

90% of the "manufacture recommended enclosures" I've seen are crap. Undersized and tuned too high. Aimed at the demographic of loud crap in a small package. Most people aren't willing to give up their whole trunk for bass...they see a "small box" subwoofer thinking it will actually sound good in the crappy box. I never look at the recommended specs.

x2. There are some sub companies who do make good recommendations, though. I expect Fi to be one of them.

Proper box depends on a lot of things, many of which are user preferences. Do you like underdamped or overdamped enclosures, high or low tuned ported enclosures, do you want something that plays certain frequencies well or one that plays evenly from 20-80 hz, etc.

the right enclosure will have a good balance of F3 and port velocity

with no interior restrictions that can get in the way of airflow

(for example widow/screen door bracing can KILL the performance of an enclosure)

even though it looks cool during the build

the more dense the material used the better also...gives an enclosure better deadness

and reduces acoustical ringing

what is a widow or screen door bracing? i've never heard of that. (so i know what not to do, thanks thumper)

also, is it worth putting the corner pieces in, like you do in your builds? and does it have to be at a nice 45 degree angle and perfectly square in the corner?

This is a picture of window bracing to give you a visual.

using round wood dowl works good for bracing without jacking up the inside of the enclosure. you can get some pretty good sized stock from home depot. you can even go big with like some handrail stuff its round for the most part.