Posted March 19, 200520 yr Im getting some nice port noise with those 3" 90* PVC elbows in the SE enclosure.I was wandering if it would be worth it to swap out the face and put in a slot port instead of thse 2 3" Aeros ?If so, would anybody be willing to help me with the port.Only things i suck at are ports and alarmsexternal is 29(w)x17(h)x9(d)Id like to do an L style, but if thats not possible labrynth is just fine.SE depth is 6 3/4"Tuning: low 30's ( if possible)
March 19, 200520 yr i'm hoping you used 1' thick wood, there fore the heght would really be 15/and since your box is 29 in wide, i had the port 2in wide.play around wt this http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31the best thing i came up wt was2(h)x(2(w)x(1.45(d)tuning freq=32
March 20, 200520 yr Author lol, so what size do u have?or did that link help you?<{POST_SNAPBACK}>link didnt work2 3" ports
March 20, 200520 yr as it sits, without port or sub displacement..ur at 1.85ft^3 net...what is the displacement of the sub?tuning low 30's is going to make for a real small box...wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
March 20, 200520 yr Author .13 is displacementId like to keep it what it is, just make a new face/port
March 20, 200520 yr if u use a 1" w x 15" t x 22.625" l port..ur tuning will be about 33hz...and ur overall net volume will be 1.38ft^3does that help?wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
March 20, 200520 yr 40 hz...port 1x15x13.375...actually, tuned a touch lower then 40...wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
March 20, 200520 yr Author O.K i had an ideaMake a slot port wedge enclosureCenter port ( under sub)then make it go all the way back to the back of the enclosuremake a whatever degree bend it is and continue the port up the back of the enclosureIf this is possible i can make a bigger enclosure( which will sound better)
March 20, 200520 yr that'll work...take a lil work, but it would work...u could also up ur port area some to help do away with noise..wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
March 20, 200520 yr Author I know its gonnna be alot of work but i think its the best optionI want to see as much as both amps as possible
March 20, 200520 yr to kinda go along with what djjd just siad...u could always use a triangle shaped port out the side of the enclosure...less work involved and i doubt anyone will be able to tell the differance sound or spl wise from a same plane design..just my .02$ has i've built a few boxes just like that and they sound goodwheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
March 20, 200520 yr KEnt, I hope you know when using BAssBox, the square port measurements are just that. It will NOT account for a slot port using one or more walls of the enclosure. Simply take your vent area, which in this case you need 20sq. inches or more to have ZERO port noise, then go to the INTERIOR section where it lists the displacent of the vent and set that to Zero. Then simply add in the pieces of wood that the vent walls will displace in the miscellaneous section, factor in end-correction and you're all set. You may already know this but I just wanted to point it out incase you didn't.Now Supa: You could go with a 6.25" round vent, but it will be abscenely long and take multiple angles. Plus I don't believe it will be the easiest thing to try and bend around the driver's frame once installed. The labrynth seems to be the easiest solution, yet it will displace quite a bit of volume depending on the thickness of the material used. A traditional slot port would work well also, but it will also displace quite a bit of room and you will need 3 sides of the enclosure to get the length you need. Keep in mind when using slot ports, it's generally accepted to have a H:W ration no greater than 9:1. Taking that theory, you would not want the 15x1 vent. Not enough vent area anyways (power dependent).With the space you have available with this enclosure, the only feasible option, in my eyes, is the round vent with some of it externally mounted. Otherwise, you take up too much volume in the enclosure and you're not running in the optimal environment. This may be beneficial however if you are looking to run more power.
March 20, 200520 yr KEnt, I hope you know when using BAssBox, the square port measurements are just that. It will NOT account for a slot port using one or more walls of the enclosure. Simply take your vent area, which in this case you need 20sq. inches or more to have ZERO port noise, then go to the INTERIOR section where it lists the displacent of the vent and set that to Zero. Then simply add in the pieces of wood that the vent walls will displace in the miscellaneous section, factor in end-correction and you're all set. You may already know this but I just wanted to point it out incase you didn't.Now Supa: You could go with a 6.25" round vent, but it will be abscenely long and take multiple angles. Plus I don't believe it will be the easiest thing to try and bend around the driver's frame once installed. The labrynth seems to be the easiest solution, yet it will displace quite a bit of volume depending on the thickness of the material used. A traditional slot port would work well also, but it will also displace quite a bit of room and you will need 3 sides of the enclosure to get the length you need. Keep in mind when using slot ports, it's generally accepted to have a H:W ration no greater than 9:1. Taking that theory, you would not want the 15x1 vent. Not enough vent area anyways (power dependent).With the space you have available with this enclosure, the only feasible option, in my eyes, is the round vent with some of it externally mounted. Otherwise, you take up too much volume in the enclosure and you're not running in the optimal environment. This may be beneficial however if you are looking to run more power.yep, knew that about bb6..lol....i figure the volume myself...and then fix the bb6 dimension until the math is the same....also, why the 9:1? i know that there is a theory behind it, but i don't know it..also, i have used less then the 9:1 with no adverse affects.and to make sure that i'm doing end correction right, u add half the port width to the end of the overall length if using an outside wall, correct?wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
March 20, 200520 yr also, why the 9:1? i know that there is a theory behind it, but i don't know it..also, i have used less then the 9:1 with no adverse affects.and to make sure that i'm doing end correction right, u add half the port width to the end of the overall length if using an outside wall, correct?wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee I don't quite remember the reasoning behind the theory. Keep in mind, it is a theory so use it as just that if you like. I read a long thread on Elite one day about it. Well, maybe it was CarSound. I don't remember, but it was LONG and CONFUSING.As far as the end correction, you use the height or the smaller number of the two ie. 1"x15". That would be 1" high x 15" wide. So you'd add .5". Or you could theroretically look at it on a vertical note as 15"H x 1"W. In that case you still would use the 1" measurement. Just remember, it's always the smaller number. If equal, well, that's a no-brainer.
March 20, 200520 yr this is my reasoning behind the 9:1 thing:as you make a skinnier/wider/whatever port, the surface area of the walls inside the port increases. and more surface area leads to more friction with the walls as the air passes over them. im sure it's possible to go smaller than 9:1 without any adverse affects. it's just one of those guidelines ya know, like fuse within 18" of battery. your car wont explode if its 19" away, just like your box wont sound like complete ass if you make it a 9.1:1 ratio. anyway, those are my thoughts on it
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