They only good looking one i could find were the Focal 165A3. Are these any good? or can you suggest any thing else. I can get the focal for about $250 so nothing over $300

thanks

Why do you car how your speakers look? I'd care more how they sound.

sorry that was not what i ment. I dont care what they look like since i proby be the only one that will ever see them.

I would advise against that.

1) Running a 3 way passive set IMO makes very little sense and buys you no benefit

2) Your budget is too small to look at any 3 way worth buying, if you can only spend $250-300 a 2 way is all you can muster

*unless of course you are speaking about running active and already have the amplification and crossover

difference between passive and active?

Major. Active requires one channel of amplification for each driver and the signal is crossed over before the amplifier. Passive requires on channel of amplification per side and the crossover is after the amplifier. 3 ways shouldn't be passive and in a car IMO.

I would advise against that.

1) Running a 3 way passive set IMO makes very little sense and buys you no benefit

2) Your budget is too small to look at any 3 way worth buying, if you can only spend $250-300 a 2 way is all you can muster

*unless of course you are speaking about running active and already have the amplification and crossover

ill just keep my infinity perfects then, thanks

Major. Active requires one channel of amplification for each driver and the signal is crossed over before the amplifier. Passive requires on channel of amplification per side and the crossover is after the amplifier. 3 ways shouldn't be passive and in a car IMO.

I'm goin to redo my front stage and I was going to use either the front channels for highs and midrange with a crossover after the amplifier, and the rear channels for 8" midbass. or the front channels with a 3 way crossover for highs midrange and midbass.

What makes 3-way passive not for cars? less control?

Major. Active requires one channel of amplification for each driver and the signal is crossed over before the amplifier. Passive requires on channel of amplification per side and the crossover is after the amplifier. 3 ways shouldn't be passive and in a car IMO.

I'm goin to redo my front stage and I was going to use either the front channels for highs and midrange with a crossover after the amplifier, and the rear channels for 8" midbass. or the front channels with a 3 way crossover for highs midrange and midbass.

What makes 3-way passive not for cars? less control?

Crossovers should really be custom built based on mounting configurations. Slopping by with an off the shelf two way is enough of a compromise, once you add a couple more legs to the crossover chain and turn it into a 3 way it is self defeating. Much better to just use a passive 2 way or up the ante and go active.

3way passive is not a really good idea... However I managed to use my Focal K3P to their full potential.

You need a good processor with at least "Time Alignment, the ability to lower the gain on each channel, and EQ (parametric being better IMO)

Next is a IASCA test CD or the EMMA one (I'm using the EMMA)

The only tracks I've played with are:

My voice is in phase/out of phase (phase relationship between pair of speakers (switching polarity)

3 drums Left Center Right (gain levelling)

7 drums across the dash (time alignment)

My voice should appear to come from a single point... far left, center, far right (tonality and phase relationship between tweets, midrange and midbass)

Play with mids first, then tweets and last midbasses...

Here's what I've got:

Left tweet out of phase - minus 5dB (on crossover) Right tweet in phase (having -5dB on Xover Left and -4dB on Processor Right, difference is -1dB between tweets)

Left mid out of phase - 1.0ms (on processor) Right mid in phase - minus 4dB

Left midbass in phase - 1.3ms (on processor) Right midbss in phase - minus 4dB

I'm using a passive crossover between tweets and midrange - active for the midbass and sub

Lastly, I've checked my RTA to make small adjustments on the processor (NO BOOSTING)

Am way more satisfied of what it used to be. Have learned a lot in the past few weeks.

Image is not dead center since I do not have a separate EQ for L/R

However I have more depth, music is playing slightly beyond the windshield.

Not much width but I can live without it... for now...

Hope that helps,

Kelvin

Edited March 20, 200916 yr by subwoofery

Kelvin, if you can t/a different mounting locations that is not passive but active. Using a single bridge of a crossover for two drivers right next to each other would be acceptable but calling it a passive setup isn't really very accurate.

Well if I can try to suggest something - try to choose a set of 4" component system such as:

http://www.woofersetc.com/p7045/SLC-21025-...nent-System.htm

http://www.woofersetc.com/p1129/M641--Diam...w--Tweeters.htm

http://www.woofersetc.com/p6971/PVI210---M...kers-System.htm

Out of those, I really liked the MB Quart when I heard it...

And add a set of midbass:

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_i...roducts_id=8234 price is for a single unit: $91.20 for the pair

Hope that helps,

Kelvin

Kelvin, if you can t/a different mounting locations that is not passive but active. Using a single bridge of a crossover for two drivers right next to each other would be acceptable but calling it a passive setup isn't really very accurate.

You're right...... Sean (is that your name? )

However I just wanted to show him that it might not be a bad idea to buy a 3way comp and move to Semi active (or full active) whenever he feels he can tackle it.

At first I was using the full passive mode with a US Amps Hybrid Tube... Then went with the Milbert (still in full passive). Only a year ago was I able to design a satisfying system. Tuning happened only 2 weeks ago. Learned so much in the last couple of weeks on DIYmobileaudio forum.

Kelvin

Kelvin, if you can t/a different mounting locations that is not passive but active. Using a single bridge of a crossover for two drivers right next to each other would be acceptable but calling it a passive setup isn't really very accurate.

You're right...... Sean (is that your name? )

However I just wanted to show him that it might not be a bad idea to buy a 3way comp and move to Semi active (or full active) whenever he feels he can tackle it.

At first I was using the full passive mode with a US Amps Hybrid Tube... Then went with the Milbert (still in full passive). Only a year ago was I able to design a satisfying system. Tuning happened only 2 weeks ago. Learned so much in the last couple of weeks on DIYmobileaudio forum.

Kelvin

be wary of what you read on diyma, ever since Ant took over from NP that site has gone to hell in a hand basket. A few troopers on there but more people of useless misinformation. I can't even handle reading it anymore although hidden in the mess there is good information and some good people.

Thanks for the tip... Might try to find who are the more trustworthy when giving information out to the wild.