oh, another thing i forgot is to try using the bottom of your dash sort of as a wave guide, it may work for you, it may not. but a lot of people will use play dough to test pont speakers to get imaging as well

oh, another thing i forgot is to try using the bottom of your dash sort of as a wave guide, it may work for you, it may not. but a lot of people will use play dough to test pont speakers to get imaging as well

Can you elaborate on the Play Doh? I'm not really sure I'm following you?

Old skool, the Rs100 would be a WAY better mate to the RS225. The "some" people that use the 225 that high have a real hard time hearing breakup then which is shocking to me because when the RS series go into cone breakup they are nasty. I prefer my 180's crossed not much above 1200hz and the 225's breakup lower. The next question you have to ask yourself though is why you are using two midranges. If they were on the same baffle it is one thing but in different positions I'd personally let the RS100 do a lot more work and get a dedicated midbass for the low end. If you truly want to have your subs fill in the lower range, which personally I try to avoid using the sub at all and maximize the front stage first, then I would look for a higher efficiency pro audio driver to give you upper midbass kick. Something like the Beyma, Faital, or B&C 8's.

As for you on axis question Ryan, if you get the driver side on axis to yourself the passenger side should be on axis to you as well It will of course make the staging more of a one seat presentation, but you can use your headunit to setup an "equal" stereo sound for when you are travelling with someone...if you are that nice. Personally my car is for me and no one else really notices anyways.

oh, another thing i forgot is to try using the bottom of your dash sort of as a wave guide, it may work for you, it may not. but a lot of people will use play dough to test pont speakers to get imaging as well

Can you elaborate on the Play Doh? I'm not really sure I'm following you?

Instead of velcro. Any sort of bed that "holds" the speaker in place a bit will work.

oh, another thing i forgot is to try using the bottom of your dash sort of as a wave guide, it may work for you, it may not. but a lot of people will use play dough to test pont speakers to get imaging as well

Can you elaborate on the Play Doh? I'm not really sure I'm following you?

Instead of velcro. Any sort of bed that "holds" the speaker in place a bit will work.

That's what I thought he was talking about. What would you tell me my next step is in this adventure, now?

ive heard to take a thumbtack and put in a tennis ball to hang it from the ceiling in the center of where the front passengers will be sitting to aim the speakers at, the lazer pen would work great to aim from the phase plug

For a driver that may be the best aiming, but not for all. (conveniently in that sentence by driver I meant both the driver of the car and the speaker itself).

First rule of thumb, mount them where the sound best to you. The second is refer to rule 1. A laser can be helpful to keep things consistent but some magical point to aim everything at does not exist across the board for all cars, speakers, and people.

What would you tell me my next step is in this adventure, now?

To tell me (or remind) what amps you are planning on using. If it is undecided that is also okay, but then a budget would help me think about things.

I'm running two Sundown Audio amps. A 50.4 and a 100.2. I've been browsing the drivers for a while now, and have made a Peerless combination. (all) I don't know if this would be the best or not, that's what you're here for. I do plan on trying to run these as close to on axis as possible.

One more question about the axis. If I'm sitting in the drivers seat, and the passenger kick is pointed at my right ear (for example sake) would that be considered on axis, since the drivers facing me? Or would it be XX degrees off since it's not facing my face.

The amps are already in my possession, by the way.

Midbass:

Peerless SLS 8

Midrange:

Peerless 3

NS3 is neo motored too, IIRC. So both that and the Peerles would be easy to aim.

Can you cut the stock kick-panel covers ? That way you could get the speaker closer to the outside of the car, for more leg-room when you aim on-axis.

I'm really curious on how high the setup images, with everything in the kicks, as I've never ever heard kick installs (one more reason to try it myself).

The NS3 is definitely Neo, but out of stock and the last time I visited Aura I was told they probably won't be bringing them back.

I'm leaning towards the Peerless midbass. I know I can fit an 8" in the door. If for some reason I find out I can't do it, maybe I shouldn't be allowed to install anymore..haha. The 10lb. CSS is the reason I don't want that driver. Thunderbird are NOTORIOUS for developing sag in the hinge, so I'd like to limit the weight if possible. (I understand I will be adding weight regardless, but the least amount of weight is what I'm shooting for.)

I kinda liked the Peerless midrange, also. A lot of it was because of the size. Getting a large mid and a large tweeter to be on axis is going to be tough. Doable, but tough.

Adrian, I can cut the kicks. I have no problem with that. Are you suggestion that I cut the kicks and lay a layer of resin and FG to lower the eventual protruding point of the kick? I know every car is different, and the best solution would be testing the drivers in different positions. I have a few problems with that though. I really want an 8" in the door, so it really limits the possibilities of incorporating other speakers there. My A-pillars are a no-go as well. I have some really nasty blind spots in the 'Bird as it is, and don't want to create anymore.

Either of you: would you suggest running these things sealed or IB? I really don't want to cut any sheet metal by my kicks to make the midrange IB, so I'd prefer to keep that sealed. Do those benefit from polyfill? Should I make separate chambers for the tweeter and the mid in the kicks? I had plans on running my door's sealed by making door pods. Would I be better off doing IB for those as well?

EDIT: Reworded a few things for clarity.

You can run them sealed, but they only require a very small box.

Of course, you can also use the fact they don't need much space to get them into an IB situation easily. I would assume that the Thunderbird fenders might be big and leaky enough to make that happen.

You can run them sealed, but they only require a very small box.

Of course, you can also use the fact they don't need much space to get them into an IB situation easily. I would assume that the Thunderbird fenders might be big and leaky enough to make that happen.

Might it be best to drill a hole in the back side of the kick afterwards? That would allow me to run my wires too. I'm really new to IB also, but can you have an IB be too big? Would it eventually become just free air, or is that pretty much what IB is for?

Fairly big hole if you go that route.

IB cannot be too big Free air is a misnomer as to me it would mean no baffle which is useless in application.

Okay! I think I'll go that route then. Seal up the midbass and vent the mid and the tweeter. Will having them on the same baffle in the same chamber have any effect? Should I try and seal the tweeter off?

What do you think of this combination:

Peerless SLS 8"

Peerless 3" full range for the mid

Morel MDT29 tweeter

Midbass HAS to be IB, it will be really be cramped otherwise.

The combination would be stellar.

Midbass HAS to be IB, it will be really be cramped otherwise.

The combination would be stellar.

That's definitely doable then. I'll just cut a hole in the back of the FG enclosure and vent in to my doors. I will be sealing up my doors with deadener. Do you have any other suggestions for the time being? If not, it's settled!

How would you suggest I use my processing I have to best fit what I'm working with?

Since your tweeters and mids will be on the same baffle I'd have them share a channel on the 880 and use the amplifiers crossovers to LP the Peerless 3" and HP the tweeter. This way you can bandpass the midbass with the 880, HP the mid/tweet and still be able to use your t/a to correct for the PLD.

Okay, I'm almost following that. Why wouldn't I want to use my 880 to just LP my midbass, BP my midrange, and HP my tweeter? Does the way you said make it easier to time align? And what is PLD?

Okay, I just re-read it, and I think it's making more sense.

No, it made no sense....I forgot you gave your sub away. All 880