March 29, 200916 yr Layer only works to a certain extent . The first is the thickest one solid layer will add . The second layer is only half as thick as the first at doing its job . It keeps going like this at the third and fourth untill it actually is doing nothing for you . It doesnt double your thickness like you may think . Example the first layer of FatMat is 0.26 , adding a second layer you will divide that thickness by 2 (0.13) and thats what you add to it . So with 2 layers you have a thickness of .26 + .13 = .39 . Third layer would be .13 divided by 2 = .065 , .39 + .065 = .45 . 1 Layer of Second Skin Damplifier is 0.44 and butyl backed so no asphalt smell and wont melt in the sun . 3 layers throughout your WHOLE vehicle of the cheaper priced FatMat at .45 VS 1 Layer of Second Skin Damplifier at .44 . Comes out probably at about the same price in the end . FatMat is basically Peel & Seal found at Home Depot , asphalt based stuff that will melt , smell your vehicle up of tar and is very thin . Before you start comparing prices compare the weight of the stuff your comparing . Raamat BXT is good for the money . Butyl with Asphalt filler backed , thicker at .38 (thicker than FatMat by .12 ). FatMat = $129.95 for 100sq ft shipped . Raamat BXT is around $240-250 shipped depending on where you live for 125sq ft . Second Skin is about $224 shipped for 80sq ft of there Damplifier . There is also Vexmat at 100sq ft at about $280-290 shipped , supposed to be good stuff .
March 29, 200916 yr hey everyone thank you for the feedback...yea a friend of mine told me about Rammat so i will go with that....but does a sealed box give out cleaner bass than a ported....i mean, kickers generally want boxes tuned to 38 hz, so what would be best because i hate whangin lolsealed boxes are the most efficient boxesIIRC, sealed boxes are the least efficient sealed box, class AB amplifier, and higher crossover point.Apart from reducing output by using a sealed box, how do those reduce trunk rattles ?
March 29, 200916 yr I know that this link is old (circa 2005), but it has lots of good info for anyone that has plans or needed some extra info about sound deadening.http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/Have Fun!
March 30, 200916 yr the "best "way to get rid of trunk rattle is to port through the rear deck or fire forward and seal the enclosure off from the trunk. Plus multiple laters of dynamat, hushmat, fatmat, whatever you choose to use.x2 I like to be loud but I hate to sound like a tin can. Before you dynamat the trunk lid spray great stuff foam into all hollow struts etc. it's gonna expand so just let it seap out holes and dry. Trim off after it dries then put your Dynamatt, hushmatt etc.. and put it on. Invest in a roller. Its usually 10-15 bucks but well worth it. As has been stated once you get to a certain point its gonna rattle regardless just more of a dull rattle. Love a loud trunk!
March 30, 200916 yr Does Anyone Have A Link To The Website For Some Really Good Efficient Working Deadener ?Price Isnt An Issue.Just Want It Done Right And To Do The JobThanx
March 30, 200916 yr Does Anyone Have A Link To The Website For Some Really Good Efficient Working Deadener ?Price Isnt An Issue.Just Want It Done Right And To Do The JobThanxhttp://secondskinaudio.com/vibration-mat/damplifier-pro.php
March 30, 200916 yr I have had peel and seal in my car for roughly 4months with no problems, and its been in my truck now going on two years. aswell no problems. so i will stick with what works for me, and ive never experienced a "smell"
March 30, 200916 yr I have had peel and seal in my car for roughly 4months with no problems, and its been in my truck now going on two years. aswell no problems. so i will stick with what works for me, and ive never experienced a "smell"Do you have any other product to compare it to?
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