Here's the deal - I'm working on putting my system together. I want to make sure I have my electrical taken care of.

Amp will be 3000rms

I was thinking about the following options:

Option 1:

Big 3

HO Alternator - 165amp Idle / 260amp higher rpm

----------

Option 2:

Big 3

Stock Alt - new, but stock.

XS Power D3100 Battery

---------

Option 3:

Big 3

Stock Alt

2 HC1800 Batts

------------------------------------------------------

Amp would probably be GP3000D running to 2 15" MTX 9500s.

Or could I do a HO Alt - which is going to be $500 for the one i'm looking at, and maybe an optima yellow up front?

Any help appreciated.

Here's the deal - I'm working on putting my system together. I want to make sure I have my electrical taken care of.

Amp will be 3000rms

I was thinking about the following options:

Option 1:

Big 3

HO Alternator - 165amp Idle / 260amp higher rpm

----------

Option 2:

Big 3

Stock Alt - new, but stock.

XS Power D3100 Battery

---------

Option 3:

Big 3

Stock Alt

2 HC1800 Batts

------------------------------------------------------

Amp would probably be GP3000D running to 2 15" MTX 9500s.

Or could I do a HO Alt - which is going to be $500 for the one i'm looking at, and maybe an optima yellow up front?

Any help appreciated.

one or two i think would be fine i think the hc1800 is kinetic batts? but what i do suggest is a batt isolator there $159 here http://www.motorcityreman.com/2-200.html

if your running 0 gauge run it right off the front batt (starting system)split it in the middle some were and put in the isolator and run the rest to your bank of bats and just use you stock alt for now for charging the bank you will not be able to play the set up constantly. but will be able to do comps and get home from them the isolator make it so it will not pull from your main starting system it isolate from that system so only the stereo will play on it own separate system of batts. this way you can up grade the set up with a alt latter if need be. this way you do not get stuck some were in the middle of no were with a dead starting bat.

btw if you do a test and tune it may not keep you charged because it like a trickle charger that you plug into a ac wall outlet so you may not win if you waste your batt reserve messing around just a tip. plus there are bigger then that isolator on other site and that one.

Edited June 21, 200916 yr by sadistic_customs

one or two i think would be fine i think the hc1800 is kinetic batts? but what i do suggest is a batt isolator there $159 here http://www.motorcityreman.com/2-200.html

if your running 0 gauge run it right off the front batt (starting system)split it in the middle some were and put in the isolator and run the rest to your bank of bats and just use you stock alt for now for charging the bank you will not be able to play the set up constantly. but will be able to do comps and get home from them the isolator make it so it will not pull from your main starting system it isolate from that system so only the stereo will play on it own separate system of batts. this way you can up grade the set up with a alt latter if need be. this way you do not get stuck some were in the middle of no were with a dead starting bat.

btw if you do a test and tune it may not keep you charged because it like a trickle charger that you plug into a ac wall outlet so you may not win if you waste your batt reserve messing around just a tip. plus there are bigger then that isolator on other site and that one.

I appreciate your input. I won't be competing with this setup at all. It's just for daily use. Since it is for daily use, do you recommend me just upgrading the alternator? I plan on playing it pretty often when I drive.

The alternator I'm looking at is about 499 - I like it's output at idle (160-165amps).

How many amps is your stock alt? Mines 105 and im running over 3000 on just a batcap 2000 and it never dips below 12 volts even at idle.

How many amps is your stock alt? Mines 105 and im running over 3000 on just a batcap 2000 and it never dips below 12 volts even at idle.

I think stock is 130 or so? It's brand new, last alternator crapped on me.

Its a 99 expedition. I guess I'll just try it with maybe a Powermaster D3100 Bat - and if voltage begins to drop too low, I'll go ahead and get the Alt.

Thanks.

a battery isnt going to do anything for you without the proper charging system ... do the big 3 then if that is not enough get the alternator ... a 130 is pretty big and should be fine because that amp is only going to put out 2250-2500 watts n e way if your lucky hifonics/crunch are very overrated but for the price they are not bad amps imo ... when ur car is on it is running on the alt not the battery ... the only time the battery is engaged is when the voltage of the battery is higher than that of the alternator ... the battery is a load in itself just like your amplifier .... yes you will be able to maintain 12.5 and under for longer by putting in a second battery or bigger battery but you dont want that ... you want to be in the 13-14 volt range ... more volts at a constant resistance = more current = more watts =)