Can I mount the subwoofer in the port, like this?

And... Would a 12"Height 1"Wide 6"Deep port be the same as a 6"Height 2"Wide 6"Deep port? Would it sound any different?

Can I mount the subwoofer in the port, like this?

And... Would a 12"Height 1"Wide 6"Deep port be the same as a 6"Height 2"Wide 6"Deep port? Would it sound any different?

Fiqure the area of the port which is the mouth. Length X height. 12X2=24 or 6X4=24 same area. As far as mounting your woofer

like that it will not work..

The port size is fine. However, i am pretty sure there would be some cancellation issues with mounthing the woofer that way.

However, i am pretty sure there would be some cancellation issues with mounthing the woofer that way.

Yeah that's sorta what I thought.

Anyone else have an opinion? Has anyone tried this?

The reason I want to try it, is because I want to make a 2.5 cubic foot box that is about 9" wide and the same height and depth as a dresser and mount a 15" in there tuned somewhere between 16-24hz for home theater, I could do it a different way, but I just wanted to know if mounting it in the port will work.

i would definitely not mount the speaker in the port like that. as far as the port goes, the thin port is VERY thin. you will probably get some port noise from a port that thin. i'd do the 6" x 2" port

Think about how a port works, it isolates the sound waves from the back of the cone and lets them go out through a vent(port), then you combine the sound waves from the front of the cone with the ones coming from the back like that you have issues.

Alright, I guess I'll just have to find another way.

Think about how a port works, it isolates the sound waves from the back of the cone and lets them go out through a vent(port), then you combine the sound waves from the front of the cone with the ones coming from the back like that you have issues.

That's not how it works. The baffle is what isolates the front and rear wave. The rear wave is not exiting through the vent, in fact it's not exiting at all, nor is the air in the vent or the enclosure. It's simply being excited by the rear of the driver just as it is in a sealed enclosure. The air in the vent and enclosure is still a spring, not a pump. Think of it this way. Take your hand and wave it in front of your face. You feel the air correct? Is the air moving? No, it's simply being excited by your hand. This is how sound is created. Now stand in front of a fan. That is taking air from one spot and physically moving it to another, essentially pumping air.

The front and rear waves are still out of phase, as is the vent, but not 180 degrees, so cancellation is not an issue.

Your idea may work, but it will take some testing. It will not be optimal that is for sure as you have the driver on an actual vent wall, but many systems have been designed to couple the output of the vent and the cone at the same spot. Think JL's Pro Wedge, or whatever they are called, enclosures. This has been done many times for years and years; it's nothing new.

Think about how a port works, it isolates the sound waves from the back of the cone and lets them go out through a vent(port), then you combine the sound waves from the front of the cone with the ones coming from the back like that you have issues.

That's not how it works. The baffle is what isolates the front and rear wave. The rear wave is not exiting through the vent, in fact it's not exiting at all, nor is the air in the vent or the enclosure. It's simply being excited by the rear of the driver just as it is in a sealed enclosure. The air in the vent and enclosure is still a spring, not a pump. Think of it this way. Take your hand and wave it in front of your face. You feel the air correct? Is the air moving? No, it's simply being excited by your hand. This is how sound is created. Now stand in front of a fan. That is taking air from one spot and physically moving it to another, essentially pumping air.

The front and rear waves are still out of phase, as is the vent, but not 180 degrees, so cancellation is not an issue.

Your idea may work, but it will take some testing. It will not be optimal that is for sure as you have the driver on an actual vent wall, but many systems have been designed to couple the output of the vent and the cone at the same spot. Think JL's Pro Wedge, or whatever they are called, enclosures. This has been done many times for years and years; it's nothing new.

Man I love this site, it's so helpful, I've learned so much from it.

Think about how a port works, it isolates the sound waves from the back of the cone and lets them go out through a vent(port), then you combine the sound waves from the front of the cone with the ones coming from the back like that you have issues.

That's not how it works. The baffle is what isolates the front and rear wave. The rear wave is not exiting through the vent, in fact it's not exiting at all, nor is the air in the vent or the enclosure. It's simply being excited by the rear of the driver just as it is in a sealed enclosure. The air in the vent and enclosure is still a spring, not a pump. Think of it this way. Take your hand and wave it in front of your face. You feel the air correct? Is the air moving? No, it's simply being excited by your hand. This is how sound is created. Now stand in front of a fan. That is taking air from one spot and physically moving it to another, essentially pumping air.

The front and rear waves are still out of phase, as is the vent, but not 180 degrees, so cancellation is not an issue.

Your idea may work, but it will take some testing. It will not be optimal that is for sure as you have the driver on an actual vent wall, but many systems have been designed to couple the output of the vent and the cone at the same spot. Think JL's Pro Wedge, or whatever they are called, enclosures. This has been done many times for years and years; it's nothing new.

I probably should have worded that better