August 27, 200916 yr Author This looks SICKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK! If those are to scale I am pretty sure we can fit in the port!The dance floor will not interfere. The measurements I gave you all have to do with the dance floor theoretically in place accept for the widths i gave you. The widths will most likely be fine. You only have to subtract 1.25 inches i believe from the heights of the widths I posted. Josh remembers better than I do of how high up the dance floor will be because of the transmission hump.For the port, how are we going to tune it for daily and competition? Is it just going to be like a piece covering the front of the port with a gasket attached? Or does a piece have to slide into the port as well to decrease port area?
August 27, 200916 yr Author Can you make me a grocery list of supplies I need to get at Home Depot. Like as far as L Brackets go, liquid nails, silicone, etc? I already have boxes of screws and hopefully enough sheets of mdf
August 27, 200916 yr I think the transmission bump was 2.25" if i remember correctly, you might want to just measure it real quick just to make sure, and I'm thinking we're gonna need another box of screws unfortunately, just a 5 pound box of drywall screws, the thin threads (more threads and closer together, just like the last box) for a better catch.
August 27, 200916 yr Author If we go with a granite finish on the front it will look pretty good.Oh damn! Plus mine arent going to say xcon on them they are just going to say ssa in the middle. They will match a lot better.
August 27, 200916 yr Author Btw im loving the routered edge I just dont think its gonna happen due to the fact this port is going to be adjustable.
August 27, 200916 yr the internal volume should be about 28-32cubes NET.I didnt really understand the dance floor thing u guys were sayin.. am i gonna have to shrink the box design down?i use 41.25 high for that drawing at 58" wide.
August 27, 200916 yr Author The only numbers that have changed are theseThe width is fine for the most part. We have with the doors off. From end to endOn the bottom - 58"s16"s up - 60"s24"s up - 62"sNotches at the window pillar at 26"s - 63"sAt the window pillar at 35"s - 58"sAt the top - 50"sAll the numbers above you just have to subtract 2.25"s from because that is how high the dance floor is.Here are the numbers with the dance floor - We still have 58"s wide up to 32.25"s high and then it starts shrinking to the top to 50"s wide at 41.25"s high (It is a little bit higher than 41.25 but to be on the safe side just say that).
August 27, 200916 yr prostitute?seriously, u must wait until i draw the 3d design out so u can get an "idea" on what u will need
August 27, 200916 yr Author That is looking DELISH!!!! Alright Shawn I just picked up some of the glues and sealants you mentioned. Well have to wait on everything else. Im pumped for this build. What are we going to use to protect the car's interior from getting ruined? Like some form of sticky sided plastic?
August 27, 200916 yr That is looking DELISH!!!! Alright Shawn I just picked up some of the glues and sealants you mentioned. Well have to wait on everything else. Im pumped for this build. What are we going to use to protect the car's interior from getting ruined? Like some form of sticky sided plastic?My suggestion would be prayer, oh and voodoo LOL or concrete. No matter what you expect to have to replace all the weather stripping each year and be constantly re tightening screws and thats just for starters.
August 27, 200916 yr go to a fabric store and buy the cheapest material you can find. then just duct tape it to everything in the vehicle while you build it.If you use plastic, use it only on the floor. Plastic will rip easy so when using expanding foam on the sides, the pressure will likely rip the plastic when you try to remove the plastic(if u tried to use it for that)
August 27, 200916 yr oh i been meanin to ask you-Before i design this in 3d and find everything else out, when the baffle is 58" wide, is it 18" deep the max i can go before i shrink it back down to 50" wide?I knwo you said earlier it was only 14" deep before i had to but i remember you sayin u scooted the design up towards the front 4" so i need to know is it still 14" or 18" deep now?
August 27, 200916 yr Author No it is 14"s deep before it goes to 50"s. I had to scoot it up 4"s to make clearance.
August 27, 200916 yr Author okie dokie.Give me a couple hrs to 3 years before i get the design done, lolAhahahaha. Take your time. We cant really start building until next weekend anyway because my ring terminals won't be in until I am in college. I have to ground everything out before I put everything in lol.
August 27, 200916 yr ok, i need some more measurements unless you already know-So, from front to back of this box, and from bottom to top-Baffle- I have 58" wide the first 35" up, then 50" wide from 35-41.25" high.That dimension will go back 14".The last time you measured everything, you told me from the front of the box to the hump was 26" deep.So... is it 30" deep now since u moved it up 4"?Also, once over the hump, u said it was 38" high... but u also subtracted 1" from the baffle height so is the hump still 38" high or is it 37" high?Also, you recently said that all the way up at the baffle, u can get 50" wide ALL THE WAY TO THE HUMP... So this means that for at least the 26-30" deep, i can maintain 50" wide correct?Also.. what is the width ONCE OVER THE HUMP? I thought the width shrank... if it does, what is it? And remember, u may not need those panels on either if you want to maintain 50" wide.
August 27, 200916 yr I think we're going to have to take the panels off and re measure that top width.
August 27, 200916 yr please make sure u get all the questions answered. I think that's all i need to know.I do know that the wall won't reach the back of the vehicle where the batts and amps are so you'll have more room than you may think... unless i have to drastically shrink something once over the hump.
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