I come home to find literally 23 new notifications for this topic. I ponder for a moment and wonder .... What would cause such a drastic amount of posting? Could it be that Shawn not only posted prints but found an incredible way to get competition porting out of the box? YES!!!!! ... This thing looks awsome! I am pumped to start this. It is looking absolutely incredible. Thank you so much for all your help on this design Shawn. Without you this would have never been possible.

hahahaha very emotional lmao

you know my nervous laugh is starting

had to lol

O SHIT. Everyone in my house must be wondering why I am laughing right now. This is incredible!

My main concern is would it be possible for a small child to be sucked into such a massive port if I were to reverse the phase on these subs?

Seriously though how wide is that port on the bottom lmao!!!

im tellin you we gotta get a sign that says danger extreme suction

I come home to find literally 23 new notifications for this topic. I ponder for a moment and wonder .... What would cause such a drastic amount of posting? Could it be that Shawn not only posted prints but found an incredible way to get competition porting out of the box? YES!!!!! ... This thing looks awsome! I am pumped to start this. It is looking absolutely incredible. Thank you so much for all your help on this design Shawn. Without you this would have never been possible.

hahahaha very emotional lmao

you know my nervous laugh is starting

hahaha nervous laugh never stops, so when im cuttin on the table saw this time, you need to stay far away lol.

Ya. I am pretty sure if my dad finds out what is going into my car I am going to be shot. Somehow him finding out 6 amps were going into my car did not phase him lmao.

Ya. I am pretty sure if my dad finds out what is going into my car I am going to be shot. Somehow him finding out 6 amps were going into my car did not phase him lmao.

haha he took that like a champ

Why don't you want the dustcap's to say XCON?

maybe he's tryin to do a sleeper install with his equipment...

You better not tell anyone u are running icons in there... lol

port size?

The port size is the following-

Top portion - 11" wide x 19.75" tall

Bottom portion - 18" wide x 18.5" wide

OK, gotta start thinkin about how this box is gonna be braced.

Oh, i haven't told you this yet-

As of right now, after sub and port displacement, your box is 30.13 cubes right now.

I want it to be close to 28 when done.

You should lose, hopefully, about 2 cubes of space after all the bracing and either rounding the corners or doin 45s in the box.

Oh by the way... your port takes up 7.6 cubes! Your port is larger than lots of people's boxes!

O Damn 7.6? That is incredible. The good news is if something were to internally happen to the box someone with a small frame could easily climb inside the box to assess the situation

The reason I do not want it to say Xcon is I think it is a little too flashy. It also will not look right with the granite finish I plan on using. I think it saying SSA on it makes it look cleaner.

Santa payed me a little visit yesterday

9 anl fuse holders - more will most likely be needed

150ft of 1/0 and 50ft of 4 gauge. This does not include the 2 strands of power already rand from front to back of the car and wire used to do the big 3 =)

Is monster cheaping out on their wire or does this new patented magnetic tube in the middle actually do something?

I'll post pictures of the 5/6 amps later on. I still need to order my 2 channel.

nice pic.

here is specs of box so far-

Triple baffled

Double sheets throughout.

ONLY top portion of port is double sheeted as shown below-

Box specs- looking from baffle to rear. (remember, these are all external dimensions)

58" wide x 32.5" high - these dimensions go back 14"

On top of that, 50" wide x 8.75" high - these dimensions go back 14"

After 14" deep, - 41.5" wide x 41.25" high for the next 16" deep.

Once here, 41.5" wide x 38" high for the next 16.5" deep.

The box is 16.5" deep on the hump. Elevated to a height of no higher than 38", the box rises above the hump 3.25".

Subwoofer Center Positions-

These are the center positions of the subwoofer cutouts. GET AS PRECISE AS POSSIBLE

The wall is triple baffled so if a slight part of a wall is in view of a cutout, do not worry, sub will still fit as long as it was cut properly at the right spot.

Sub order -

#1 - Bottom Left

#2 - Top Left

#3 - Top Right

#4 - Bottom Right

Following center positions are measured from the bottom left of the baffle.

X axis = horizontal

Y axis = vertical

#1 - x=10", y=10"

#2 - x=13.65", y= 28.33"

#3 - x=44.5", y=28.33"

#4 - x=48", y=10"

When making these cutouts, once done, it's wise to place all subs on baffle prior to mounting it to ensure they all fit without hitting each other. If you accidentally cut wrong and one subs is to close to another, you can remove the rubber gasket around the subwoofer freeing up 1\8" of space.

wanna make sure u are here...

I'm about to post up the bracing pic that i think you should do.

I'm not gonna draw every little thing but the main part will be here.

that looks good, i'm guessing those are 4x4s in the back lol, and are all of those threaded rod?

this pic shows parts of the double sheeting port on top where the blue colored parts and opposite pieces alike are NOT to be there.

This is to allow a port plug to slide into the port and use extra wood glued to the outside of the plug to fit nicely into the parts of the port that is missing.

This will hold it steady.

All you have to do is secure it in the front.

You should make a front base so it goes over the outside of the baffle and fit's nicely or u can cut 0.75" of depth off the top part of the port so the front port plug base is flush with the baffle.. doesn't matter, all cosmetic work from there.

Just remember to secure the plug.

Making a base which covers the top port and baffle slightly will keep it from going in the box any further than necessary, just need to secure it from pushing out or rattling.

Do NOT make the port plug as tight as possible! You will regret it. You can leave about 1\8" space on top and bottom of the slits to slide into. If it starts to rattle, you can always run thin material in the slit to prevent it from moving but i highly doubt this is necessary.

Yes, the bracing pic shows 2 4x4s, ALL 3\4" all-thread running into it. Near the front of the baffle, the horizontal pieces are 2" wooden dowels, there is 4 total, 2 on each side of the port.

Then at the inside baffle, there is 1 3\4" all-thread run on each side of the baffle between each sub on each side. You can see 1 small run in the pic, there is another on opposite side.

OK, and we are just bolting this to the outside with a lock washer and a nut right? And should we run the threaded rod through the 4x4s and bolt it when it meets with the wood, or just stagger them and bolt each one separately to the 4x4.

i thought u were a carpenter, lol

This is what i did-

On the outside, it's large fender washer, lock washer then Polylock Nylon nut.

On the inside, it's large fender washer, lock washer, regular 3\4" nut.

The runs going from side to side-

You want the inside combo on the wall, both sides of each 4x4 and through other wall and back out to the outside of the wall.

So you would need 2 Polylock Nylon nuts, 6 regular 3\4" nuts, 8 lock washers and 8 large fender washers PER run.

The runs going from back to 4x4-

You want the following-

Lock nut, lock washer and large fender washer on the outside and on other side of 4x4 when the run ends!

So, you will need 2 Polylock Nylon nuts, 2 regular 3\4" nuts, 4 lock washers and 4 large fender washers PER run.

This is the point where people see how much we put into a wall...

Each of these nuts is about $1 each, washers are about 2 for a $1...

I suggest using 6" l brackets too in places there u might need them.

6" L brackets have a 10" radius of dispersed strength to let you know.

i thought u were a carpenter, lol

This is what i did-

On the outside, it's large fender washer, lock washer then Polylock Nylon nut.

On the inside, it's large fender washer, lock washer, regular 3\4" nut.

The runs going from side to side-

You want the inside combo on the wall, both sides of each 4x4 and through other wall and back out to the outside of the wall.

So you would need 2 Polylock Nylon nuts, 6 regular 3\4" nuts, 8 lock washers and 8 large fender washers PER run.

The runs going from back to 4x4-

You want the following-

Lock nut, lock washer and large fender washer on the outside and on other side of 4x4 when the run ends!

So, you will need 2 Polylock Nylon nuts, 2 regular 3\4" nuts, 4 lock washers and 4 large fender washers PER run.

This is the point where people see how much we put into a wall...

Each of these nuts is about $1 each, washers are about 2 for a $1...

I suggest using 6" l brackets too in places there u might need them.

6" L brackets have a 10" radius of dispersed strength to let you know.

lol we're going to get most of this stuff today at home depot and then next weekend the box structure should be completed.

Alright so we got most of the bracing material. We had to resort to 1 1/2" dowels if that is alright. We could not find anything larger. We found some 3/4" threaded rods but we could not find the longer 48" pieces. I did not want to buy 1/2" because that one was looking very important. We are going to have to go somewhere else to find that. Where did you get yours? Also we could not find the poly nuts so we are going to need to find some of those. Where did you find those?

We bought 6 cans of the Good Stuff Large Gap Filler. Is this enough or should I buy more. We still need to buy some fabric to cover the car so it does not get ruined.

Box materials right now is already up to $700+! Im figuring close to $1000 after it is all said and done.

Where did you want those l-brackets? I bought 15. Is that enough?

Also, what is the purpose of those metal strips that the threaded rods connect to? Are they needed?

u need to quite goin to home depot

Only thing home depot has around my area is that triple expanding foam... everything else is at Lowes.

Lowes carries EVERYTHING but the foam.

6 cans is to laugh at, you are gonna need about 20 cans of it.

I used 9 cans on my car and my area is a lot smaller than yours is.

If you've never used it before, here is tips-

Wear gloves at all times!

Spray in small quantities, it will get 2-3x larger within 30-60min and fully cured overnight.

within 30 min, it wil start to get firm but no not put pressure on the foam until it's fully cured overnight.

smaller dowels are fine.

REMEMBER, angle or arc ALL corners. If you do not take up more internal space, your box will be tuned VERY LOW and u may not like that.

If you do nothing to the corners.. it will be tuned to the mid to high 20s...

he bracing takes up about 0.75 cubes, u need to displace another 1.25 cubes of space internally.

If you cannot, then take 1.5" of depth off the box that is over the hump.

The metal strips is steel. Go with a run that you cannot physically bend when holding it.

The steel runs on the outside of the box help disperse more bracing strength through the walls that they are ran on.

All-thread alone doesn't actually have a large dispersing radius unless used in conjunction with something else.

6 cans is to laugh at, you are gonna need about 20 cans of it.

I think I just had a heart attack