Well Sean I think you know what I am looking for and my restrictions. What would you recommend as far as brand and model to meet my specifications.?

You have some trade-offs to make.

If you are willing to forego a little midbass and turn up your subs go with a pro audio solution. B&C's are usually a good call here.

If you are willing to run a 3 way, I'd run something like the Peerless SLS as a midbass but it falls down above 200Hz and will need a mid.

If a compromise between the two is where you'd like to be the Seas CA22 or CA26 can be pretty impressive midbass wise and still play up to where you need it to. I am a little concerned with overall output considering you would be using 2 mids with 4 big arse subs, but when you weren't wailing this would be the solution that sounded the best.

Some drivers I haven't seen held or tested that might be of interest would be the CSS Trio 8 (not quite sure on how high it will play but it should be higher than the Peerless) and the Dayton RSS210HF which can play high enough. Both are probably the best solutions here considering your goals, but I haven't played with either and neither will be real efficient.

You have some trade-offs to make.

If you are willing to forego a little midbass and turn up your subs go with a pro audio solution. B&C's are usually a good call here.

If you are willing to run a 3 way, I'd run something like the Peerless SLS as a midbass but it falls down above 200Hz and will need a mid.

If a compromise between the two is where you'd like to be the Seas CA22 or CA26 can be pretty impressive midbass wise and still play up to where you need it to. I am a little concerned with overall output considering you would be using 2 mids with 4 big arse subs, but when you weren't wailing this would be the solution that sounded the best.

Some drivers I haven't seen held or tested that might be of interest would be the CSS Trio 8 (not quite sure on how high it will play but it should be higher than the Peerless) and the Dayton RSS210HF which can play high enough. Both are probably the best solutions here considering your goals, but I haven't played with either and neither will be real efficient.

How much do you consider foregoing a little midbass?

The B&C is a midrange that plays low. If you have crossovers on your h/u or amp right now you can simulate. Turn up the HP on your XXX6.5's to 150hz at 12dB. It may not be that severe, but I'd be it would be close.

*assumes good installation and deadening on the current set

The B&C is a midrange that plays low. If you have crossovers on your h/u or amp right now you can simulate. Turn up the HP on your XXX6.5's to 150hz at 12dB. It may not be that severe, but I'd be it would be close.

*assumes good installation and deadening on the current set

Alright. I'm probably going to just get the iD 6x9s. They were intended for those horns so I might as well do it right. Thanks for the input guys but I cannot sacrafice that much midbass. Yes I am a midbass fiend and most of the music I listen to involves no words

CSS Trio 8 (not quite sure on how high it will play but it should be higher than the Peerless)

CSS was recommending up to 500hz, but I'm going to see if I can push the envelope and get another half octave out of them

The Trio8's are what I'll be (attempting) to use with my horns.

There are some pro drivers that will give you a ton of "snap" at ~100hz and up, but crap out below that.

I've heard good things about those XS mids, haven't heard them myself however. I was considering them but I'm a cheap bastard & didn't want to spend the coin.

CSS Trio 8 (not quite sure on how high it will play but it should be higher than the Peerless)

CSS was recommending up to 500hz, but I'm going to see if I can push the envelope and get another half octave out of them

The Trio8's are what I'll be (attempting) to use with my horns.

There are some pro drivers that will give you a ton of "snap" at ~100hz and up, but crap out below that.

I've heard good things about those XS mids, haven't heard them myself however. I was considering them but I'm a cheap bastard & didn't want to spend the coin.

Ya I do not wish to spend the coin either. I just want everything done the correct way so I figured might as well match them up right. Let me know how the trios go for you.

If you can fit that Dayton, I'd bet lots of money they will have the more midbass and will easily play smoothly out to a kHz. The first nasty cone mode isn't until 4k. You also won't run out of excursion as easily as you would with a non-sub driver. Of course I am biased as no way no how would I pay what ID wants.

Would those daytons be a lot louder than the iDs? The iDs have a sensitivity of 92 and take 150 rms. These have an 86.5 sensitivity and take 280 watts rms. I know when it comes to subs you have to measure other stuff besides sensitivity. How would they perform in my kick as they are not completely sealed off in the back?

It all depends on the power you throw at them. Ignore the power ratings a bit as the higher you cross them the more they will take. The Daytons will have more midbass potential for sure, but will require more power.

Completely sealed would kill either driver, you really need to get them as IB as possible or at least build a suitable sealed enclosure. Anything that large in a kick is tough unless you vent into the fender or outside.

So the way I have it now will not work. How can I enclose the area? Will these sound good for what I want them for. Like I will be able to hear the words and whatnot correct?

"words" are typically in the 350hz-3500hz range which is where those horns will cover most of. Even without you will only be missing an octave of voices, but those will be midbass machines. The choice here is great midrange or midbass.

I wouldn't enclose the driver but open up the area behind them into the fender. Time to cut some metal

*again I haven't heard the ID's but am skeptical and hate their selling price.

Ya so do I. I will probably go with these then. If I do not like them. Oh well it beats spending 400+ on a set. Thanks!!!!

What would you recommend throwing at them for power? I am bridging my sax100.4 so I have plenty of power to give =)

The way my kicks are setup there is plenty of ventallation behind the panel =) Do you know what the mounting depth on those beasts are. Hopefully no more than 5"s.

The way my kicks are setup there is plenty of ventallation behind the panel =) Do you know what the mounting depth on those beasts are. Hopefully no more than 5"s.

Those are not "small box" drivers. If you aren't putting them in a box they need a minimum of 10cuft and more would be better. ie having them vent into your hood or somewhere outside will really help the bottom end.

They should be able to take all of the 100.4 without a problem. Let your ears decide though as it will be the lower frequencies as per usual that will stress the driver. Definitely let your ears decide with the subs and horns off.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-456

Shows the mounting depth is 4.75"

Frequency response charts here, 1kHz shouldn't be a problem.

http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/295-456s.pdf

Assuming these are like their brethren in the line you should really like them. I would also expect if you don't they should be fairly easy to sell at not that much of a loss.

I will repeat though that these won't be as loud in the 150-800Hz range as the ID's according to their power handling and sensitivity, but they should surely have some sick midbass and still be able to blend with your horns.

The way my kicks are setup there is plenty of ventallation behind the panel =) Do you know what the mounting depth on those beasts are. Hopefully no more than 5"s.

Those are not "small box" drivers. If you aren't putting them in a box they need a minimum of 10cuft and more would be better. ie having them vent into your hood or somewhere outside will really help the bottom end.

They should be able to take all of the 100.4 without a problem. Let your ears decide though as it will be the lower frequencies as per usual that will stress the driver. Definitely let your ears decide with the subs and horns off.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-456

Shows the mounting depth is 4.75"

Frequency response charts here, 1kHz shouldn't be a problem.

http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/295-456s.pdf

Assuming these are like their brethren in the line you should really like them. I would also expect if you don't they should be fairly easy to sell at not that much of a loss.

I will repeat though that these won't be as loud in the 150-800Hz range as the ID's according to their power handling and sensitivity, but they should surely have some sick midbass and still be able to blend with your horns.

I will have to see how my bank book is looking when I order everything. I will most likely get these though. Thanks!!!