shizzon. we were talking in the live room and we figured that thats what i had room for. I have room for 2 15"s as well but that would eat all my trunk space and wouldnt have eough room for batteries or amps...

shizzzon is definetly knowledgable, so he suggested those exact subs or did he say use 10" subwoofers? what price range of 10" subwoofers are you looking for? the AQ amp, do you have it already?

I know hes a good man and I trust his word. Its my mind that goes craaazy. He recommended the 4 10" subs I was talking about before (SDC2.5) and figured I had the room for four of them pointing forward with a port on the top to back (i think that was the port, not sure). He also said a kicker 2500.1 would do well...

i often look at 10's and wonder how a big multiple sub install would be with them, i like the looks of a bunch of subs and the grin of saying "all i have is some 10"s".

I just found somebody online selling a 2005.1 for 500$. Do I dare go for it?

I have been looking really hard at the SDC2.5 and I think they may do for me, for now. When I get my electrical upgraded and if they are not enough, hell ill throw a bigger and badder amp in the trunk. I have been looking and I am not sure what the displacement would be of these subs. I want about 5.5 cubic feet total space. So If I went off of a different 10" for a rough guess it would be about .16 cubic feet displacement. Roughly .64 and Ill say its .7 just for a nice round even number (don't need to be that specific right now). So I was thinking of a box like 17in high, 40 in wide, 20 inches deep. Would give me about 5.94 cubic feet (I love this box tuning calculator). What I don't understand is how would I want the port? I want an external port to maximize the space outside the box so I don't starve anything. I was told by Shizzz that I want about 84sq inches of port. That would mean roughly 9.2 high by 9.2 wide by an inch deep for the wood...That would tune me to about 71hz. What am I doing wrong here? (or what did I misunderstand?)

lol, you dont want the port 1" long

I'm not worried about bout box specs yet. If u know u are gonna run that setup and need a design, then i'll make one or just tell you the numbers.

Well back to the drawing board. It seems if I want to do comps, 4 10"s are not the way to go...

what program do you guys use to design boxes for subs? or do you all just draw it out?

I use winisd, mostly just to calculate port area/lengths to box volume, not really to model the freq. response or anything. most of the time I dont really have all the specs for the sub anyways, so not sure if it would really give me accurate results anyways.

and obviously a calculator to calculate the displacement of the port that winisd is giving me, then see if I can still get the volume I need, if not change my volume in winisd, then recalculate the displacement of the port again to see if I can then have the internal volume I need, if not, step 1-4 again and again.

I just had an idea....

One powermaster battery is about 450$ shipped for me. If I buy a 200 amp alt (300$ shipped from a guy on these forums) and ditch one of my batteries (and I would wire it Big 3 with zero gauge), will the stock battery be enough for 2x AQ-2200D's or 2x SAZ-2000's? If it could be then I could probably get two 12" BTL's and power them very well...

Edited September 16, 200915 yr by Hell-Razor

well, there's a guy around here running 6000w on stock alt... the alternator is the source of power.

What people don't realize is 2 things is happening to an alt that is asked to put out more power than it can do-

1 - the diodes may die eventually due to overcurrent and...

2 - the alt may overheat trying to charge the batts back up.

If you got a large aH battery bank and a low output alt, the alt may die due to overheating if u drain your batts down low or if u excessively go over your alt's current output rating for daily.

I wouldnt run no more than that aq2200d on there for daily until the alt is upgraded for longevity use.

I couldnt disagree with you more.

judging from the seeming high failure rate of H.O alts, i decided to stick with the factory alt in the neon. my number would probably be a little higher with a bigger alt, but not much....

and im running 7.2k so far......with no dimming, no blown amps/batts and a perfectly normal alt.

and what Thor is doing in his trunk isnt a typical trunk setup ( i think we can all agree with that) most people fire subs to the back without sealing off the trunk.

-Robin

yea, lol, i had to explain to somebody the other day who doesnt even compete, just wants to get louder, that his setup is not the norm and not to be expected in a daily driver.

Ok for a 2 12" design what would be best for building the box? I was thinking of firing them up and forwards towards the driver at a 45 degree angle about. With a square port directly between and behing the two subs... But I heard that if the subs fire directly up towards the top of the trunk with a port on the bottom towards the back of the box is the best...

typically, subs and port back is the best... BUT, without proper air flow around the box, it could be a very bad design.

I opted for you to fire forward subs and port... yes you will have no loading area but the better seal job you do, the better the design will be.

The port for firing forward would be monsterous as required and that's a big plus! The only thing you gotta do is seal around the box and top of it so only pressure stays in the cabin area only!

You said I cant do that and have the car look stock....

you're right but with as much power as you plan on runnin, subs back and port back with the required box volume would be insanely too large for your trunk.

Before i sealed off my wall in my car... then when i sealed it up, i only gained 0.4 db.

That's completely inaudible.

You make the box to where it's as close to the back seats as possible and it will perform awesome.

There are ways to seal parts or all the trunk without destroying anything.

if you lay tape down on the carpets......expanding foam is your friend.

then sand that down and paint it black, then fold seats back up, and when you are ready to pull it out, your car will still look stock.

you're right but with as much power as you plan on runnin, subs back and port back with the required box volume would be insanely too large for your trunk.

Before i sealed off my wall in my car... then when i sealed it up, i only gained 0.4 db.

That's completely inaudible.

You make the box to where it's as close to the back seats as possible and it will perform awesome.

There are ways to seal parts or all the trunk without destroying anything.

What about subs forward or up and ports back?

if you lay tape down on the carpets......expanding foam is your friend.

then sand that down and paint it black, then fold seats back up, and when you are ready to pull it out, your car will still look stock.

expanding foam is expensive...