with steel, i would glue them, sealant around the edges to make it smoother, then run bolts through the steel to keep the steel pressed up against the wall as tight as possible.

with steel, i would glue them, sealant around the edges to make it smoother, then run bolts through the steel to keep the steel pressed up against the wall as tight as possible.

Alright, thats what I was thinking.

for an even stronger brace if u want, you can run the steel from one side all the way to the other on the inside and out. that way the wood is sandwiched in between the steel and will cause a very, very strong dispersed brace.

IF you are ever unhappy with the flexing at very low frequencies, you can add Angle Iron to the outside of your box but it must be braced on the inside with flat steel as a gripper to hold onto.

This is somewhat extreme bracing just lettin u know.

for an even stronger brace if u want, you can run the steel from one side all the way to the other on the inside and out. that way the wood is sandwiched in between the steel and will cause a very, very strong dispersed brace.

IF you are ever unhappy with the flexing at very low frequencies, you can add Angle Iron to the outside of your box but it must be braced on the inside with flat steel as a gripper to hold onto.

This is somewhat extreme bracing just lettin u know.

Ya, I was planning on "sandwiching" the wood inside and out. But I'm glad you gave me the idea of doing it all the way across.

i'm gonna have to redo my bracing because well... it's bad, lol. Low frequencies are hell!

i'm gonna have to redo my bracing because well... it's bad, lol. Low frequencies are hell!

Haha ya, I've seen how an under braced port wall behaves at low freqs. lol.