Hi, I am planning a budget build in my 2003 Mazda Protege ES. I am new to AudioQue but I am smitten. I love their straight forward, no BS approach. And I love thier prices. I am very interested in the AQ1200D to push an HDC3-15. Now my delima is building a box. I have always gone prefab in the past so I have no experience. I figure I have about 30 to 35Wx16Hx17D to work with in my trunk. I need to be able to take the box in and out as needed. I want to step my game up and get away from mainstream prefab electronics store propaganda. If you know what I mean. I just really want to do my first true quality build. AQ states thier 15's call for 4.5 with sub displacement and port take out accounted for, this is what I have come up with using the box building tutorial on AQ's web site

30Wx16Hx17D would give me 4.7 cuft outside

subtract the 3/4 MDF

29.5Wx15.5Hx16.5D is 4.3 cuft inside

multiply this by 16 sqin and I get 68.8 sqin of port area

divide 68.8 by 15.5 inside H and I get 4.4 in rounded to 4.5 in

so I have a port 4.5W x 15.5H run back to 12 in deep and bent on a 90 to run another 4 in parallel with the back wall

I fugure 4.3 is pretty close to 4.5 and their web site states that if you stay within 5-10% of calculated volumes, there will be very little if any audible effects. Also that a 16 in deep port will tune around 40Hz. I don't know about port tuning or much about box building at all. So please any input is welcome, but remember be gentle, it's my first time LOL. Thanx in advance.

looks good man, I want some audioque subs!

I so rudely forgot to say Hi to everyone and thanx for accepting me into this forum. I look forward to learning from you all.

I am also very interested in this Sundown Audio SAE-1200D, Anything that is rated at the power I will be using it at sounds good to me. I have also heard very good things about Sundown. Just need a sub to go with it in the $300 shipped range that will work in the space I have. Really looking for a 1000 watt to a 1200 watt RMS 15. Thanx.

your not taking into consideration the port displacement when getting your 4.3 ft^3

also, taking your outside dimensions and then subtracting 3/4" material, you actually get these numbers for inside dimensions, which is 3.7 ft^3.

30x16x17 minus 1-1/2" (3/4" material on both sides)

28.5x14.5x15.5

then say 3.7x16" of port is 60in^2 of port. 4"x14.5" and I wouldnt tune higher than 35 for daily, which gives a port length of 27". not getting very detailed on the displacement of an L port, it would roughly be 4.75(4" port width plus 3/4" material again) x 14.5x27=1.07 ft^3 port displacement.

so now you got a box of 3.7-1.07=2.63 ft^3 tuned to 35. but now since the net volume is less you can shrink the port area which will give back some net volume and you can then shorten the port up for some more net volume. might want to drop to a 12 so that after port and sub displacement you can still run a large enough box.

if I get some free time later on Ill draw something up and see the exact numbers you could get in that space. dont wanna do all the math right now.

your not taking into consideration the port displacement when getting your 4.3 ft^3

also, taking your outside dimensions and then subtracting 3/4" material, you actually get these numbers for inside dimensions, which is 3.7 ft^3.

30x16x17 minus 1-1/2" (3/4" material on both sides)

28.5x14.5x15.5

then say 3.7x16" of port is 60in^2 of port. 4"x14.5" and I wouldnt tune higher than 35 for daily, which gives a port length of 27". not getting very detailed on the displacement of an L port, it would roughly be 4.75(4" port width plus 3/4" material again) x 14.5x27=1.07 ft^3 port displacement.

so now you got a box of 3.7-1.07=2.63 ft^3 tuned to 35. but now since the net volume is less you can shrink the port area which will give back some net volume and you can then shorten the port up for some more net volume. might want to drop to a 12 so that after port and sub displacement you can still run a large enough box.

if I get some free time later on Ill draw something up and see the exact numbers you could get in that space. dont wanna do all the math right now.

Thank you ppiflat10s. I see the error of my ways. Not bad for my first attemp I think. And I really would appreciate the help with the drawings. Props. And take this into consideration please I am really looking at the Sundown Audio SAE-1200D with a Fi SSD 15 with BP Power upgrade for the 200 to 500 watt RMS gain. Fi says it can run in a 3-4 cuft ported at 33HZ. I think this is more what I'm looking for and about $40 dollars cheaper. I really like the fact that the Sundown Audio SAE-1200D is rated at 12.8V. That's freakin sweet. I have an Optima yellow top with stock alt and 0g to the trunk so I think this will be right up my alley. Thanks again.

Edited October 11, 200915 yr by PHATBOi

I have no idea the sub displacement of an HDC3 12, but I just figured somewhere around .2 even though its probably greater than that. but assuming .2 sub displacement it puts this box at 2.8@35Hz

if you find out the exact displacement of the sub, an easy way to adjust the box is just to make the box 3/8" longer for every .05 cubes of additional sub displacement.

and each piece is labeled as its cut size, with a top and bottom being cut at 17"x30.75" (or whatever length you end up adjusting the length to).

just double checked myself and its [email protected] assuming .2 sub displacement.

ok, just read your edited post, and from the box I drew, a 33Hz tuning will lengthen the port, and shrink the volume more. also, I saw you said you had 35" to work with but if this is going into a trunk rear firing you have to have space somewhere around the box for the bass to enter the cabin which is why I didnt use the whole 35".

Ill draw one up in a second that has a little less port area and see if I can get 3 cubes tuned to 33 in that same space.

Add the flatwind coil to the upgrade also.

ok, just read your edited post, and from the box I drew, a 33Hz tuning will lengthen the port, and shrink the volume more. also, I saw you said you had 35" to work with but if this is going into a trunk rear firing you have to have space somewhere around the box for the bass to enter the cabin which is why I didnt use the whole 35".

Ill draw one up in a second that has a little less port area and see if I can get 3 cubes tuned to 33 in that same space.

Awsome bro this is the most help I have gotten in a while. Thank you for your time. And even with the 35 I would still have a little room on the sides and top for the waves to pass through. I just think 35 is gonna be a tight squeeze gettin it in there.

Bro I just now seen the drawing, that is sweet. I wanna learn how to do that. I can't thank you enough, I finally feel like I'm gettin somewhere on this. I will check back in the morning,

just double checked myself and its [email protected] assuming .2 sub displacement.

Sub displacement is .17 cuft

again assuming .2 displacement for the sub, this box is 3.0@33Hz. and it will still work to adjust the box length 3/8" for .05 cubes of different sub displacement.

just saw the .17 for the sub.

so change the length from 30 5/8" to 30 3/8" to keep it at 3.0 tuned to 33Hz

what are your goals for a sub?

The Fi SSD sounds good while gettin loud but is REAL picky on enclosure design. If you build the maximum recommended enclosure, they tend to bottom out if ran off of an amp just a few watts over the subs rms rating... odd but true..

The HDC3 has a Hellacious motor on it. Anythign 1200w or less will sound good while getting LouD due to it's potential. The HDC3 is a ~50lb monster and can get very loud as well.

If you go with the SSD - tune to 32-36hz

If you go with the HDC3- tune to 35-38hz

The HDC3s have a longer throw so they can dig the lows while still being tuned higher.

This will work for you- 2.5cubes tuned to 34hz. You really dont want to put any one of those subs in 3cubes unless you down the power given to them.

Ok so I gues the HDC3-15 just isn't gonna work with the space I have. So I cheated a little and used RE box calculator on thier web site to play around with my numbers and I came up with this for a Fi SSD 15

34wx16hx16d outside

with a port 14.5 high and 3 wide

12.25 deep then 90'd with the back wall for 10 for a total of 27.5

this gives me a volume of 3.253 minus sub dis of .17 fot a total of 3.083

tuned at 33.06#######

Fi says the SSD will work in a 3 cuft box

I'm thinkin add the flatwind coil and BP Power for the xtra 200 to 500 RMS gain

and run it off the new Sundown SAE-1200D

well, that would add thermal power handling, but the suspension isnt changed, so there would still be the problem of running so much power at it in a larger enclosure.

and shizzon, what is the benefit of a port like that instead of doing a 90 and running on the back wall? I see youve drawn quite a few like that and was thinking it must have some benefit.

well, that would add thermal power handling, but the suspension isnt changed, so there would still be the problem of running so much power at it in a larger enclosure.

and shizzon, what is the benefit of a port like that instead of doing a 90 and running on the back wall? I see youve drawn quite a few like that and was thinking it must have some benefit.

So your saying the more power you put to a sub the smaller the enclosure you should put it in?

it depends on sub placement is dependent on when i do it.

I don't want the rear wave to shoot directly into the port so sometimes i'll do a port like that so that will not happen.

How is air supposed to travel into the box when air is being pushed another way right beside it? It seems like that port is being left out.

Someone more advanced may be able to answer this but air is NOT traveling in, nor out, i believe.

The port acts as a resonator i think.

I'm not keen in the advanced nature of it.

its called the Helmholtz resonating effect or something like that. Its like blowing over a bottle, depending on how much volume is in the bottle and the area of the opening the pitch will change. I don't know how it works, i just heard it explained like that.

RE: Help with box please‏

From: Audioque.com ([email protected])

Sent: Sun 10/11/09 5:07 PM

To: 'Donald Cowger III' ([email protected])

approx 38hz

-----Original Message-----

From: Donald Cowger III [mailto:[email protected]]

Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 4:04 PM

To: [email protected]

Subject: RE: Help with box please

I really appreciate all the help. Thank you. What would this tune the port to?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: [email protected]

To: [email protected]

Subject: RE: Help with box please

Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2009 15:52:59 -0500

17x17x35 would leave you with a little over 3.5 net cubes after displacements which is just a little on the small size but should work fine especially if you can move up to the AQ2200d amp. You need 56 sq" of port opening area (make port 3.6" wide and 15.5" tall and 20" long L shaped port)

I would eventually step up to the AQ2200D, just can't afford it right now. Gives me something tolook forward to though. So, thoughts anyone?

Bump for thoughts.

Sundown Audio SAE-1200D

◦1200 x 1 watts @ 1 ohm

◦600 x 1 watts @ 2 ohms

◦300 x 1 watts @ 4 ohms

The SAE-1200D is designed to produce it's full 1200 watts of rated output at 12.8 volts!

These amps are capable of a real 1500+ watts at 12.8 volts.

That's what I'm talkin bout. I really am trying tostepmy game upon this build. I want to get away from the mainstream type stuff. I have heard so many good things about Sundown and now they finally have an amp I can afford! LOL! I think this will push my HDC3-15 nicely untill I can afford the AQ2200d.