Posted July 6, 200520 yr I want to have a port that is out side of my box but I also want a port that runs along the contours of the side of my hatch. This will make for a port that is shaped like "~". Is this a problem so long as I make sure that the port is exacly "x" cubic inchs? What sort of problems could I encounter?ThanksJerry
July 6, 200520 yr could always make it outa fiberglass....wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
July 6, 200520 yr You can bend MDF easily...use a saw and cut withing 1/16th of an inch of going through the wood...every few inches...Ok...wait...maybe it's not easy NG
July 6, 200520 yr Bending any wood takes skill and time.Actually, there is bendable plywood available. Also, I have bent plywood numerous times around frames of odd shapes. It gets tougher with thicknesses, but 3/16" and 1/4" can easily be done. Soak it in water for about a day, then bend and staple, nail, screw around the frame and let it dry. Then you can remove the frame and it should warp from drying to the desired shape. But like you said, time consuming.
July 6, 200520 yr Author I was thinking of using a cardboard mock up that I would then cover aluminum foil then with fleece. Slap some resin on there, wait for it to dry. Slap on 2 or 3 layers of glass and finally rip out the card and foil. I figured the fleece on the inside would make for a nice smooth port inner surface. Not sure if that is necessary though.Or I could use one of those rain gutter pipe things that everyone has on the side of their homes. What do your guys think?Or lastly the PVC idea but I prefer the first so that I can form fit and make it more low profile. Perhaps I could combine the PVC with the glass. Glass against the wall and add half pieces of PVC which I could then glass at joints and turns.
July 6, 200520 yr Fleece would actually be detrimental... the fibres will cause more friction on the airflow.
July 6, 200520 yr but if he's glassing it the fibers wont even matter, especially if he sands it down, it'l be about as smooth as mdf.. I think.
July 6, 200520 yr Bending any wood takes skill and time.<{POST_SNAPBACK}>Actually, there is bendable plywood available. Also, I have bent plywood numerous times around frames of odd shapes. It gets tougher with thicknesses, but 3/16" and 1/4" can easily be done. Soak it in water for about a day, then bend and staple, nail, screw around the frame and let it dry. Then you can remove the frame and it should warp from drying to the desired shape. But like you said, time consuming.<{POST_SNAPBACK}>that's the way to go...Overall, I would rather have as straight & short of a port as possible.-Nick
July 6, 200520 yr Bending any wood takes skill and time.<{POST_SNAPBACK}>Actually, there is bendable plywood available. Also, I have bent plywood numerous times around frames of odd shapes. It gets tougher with thicknesses, but 3/16" and 1/4" can easily be done. Soak it in water for about a day, then bend and staple, nail, screw around the frame and let it dry. Then you can remove the frame and it should warp from drying to the desired shape. But like you said, time consuming.<{POST_SNAPBACK}>that's the way to go...Overall, I would rather have as straight & short of a port as possible.-Nick<{POST_SNAPBACK}>Me too, less turbulence = higher port velocity = good.
July 6, 200520 yr I was thinking of using a cardboard mock up that I would then cover aluminum foil then with fleece. Slap some resin on there, wait for it to dry. Slap on 2 or 3 layers of glass and finally rip out the card and foil. I figured the fleece on the inside would make for a nice smooth port inner surface. Not sure if that is necessary though.Or I could use one of those rain gutter pipe things that everyone has on the side of their homes. What do your guys think?Or lastly the PVC idea but I prefer the first so that I can form fit and make it more low profile. Perhaps I could combine the PVC with the glass. Glass against the wall and add half pieces of PVC which I could then glass at joints and turns.You'd be best off doing that idea with some FG cloth. It will leave the smoothest surface. Depending on the cloth you use, it could actually be smooth enough to not even have to finish. Let me know if you're really interested, I have this uber-expensive, ultra tight weave that I can send a portion of to you. It's used in Aeronautics and once the resin dries, there's no finish needed. Hell, it'd be best if you could use the cheapest polyester resin available as the cheap ones tend to have a wax inbedded in them that makes the final resin coat ultr-smooth. Bondo brand is this way. It's the only thing local to me, and I hate having to sand that wax off inbetween layers, but in this instance it would be beneficial.
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