Sorry, I hate to be that guy making all the stupid threads asking a bunch of stupid questions and in this case one that can't really be answered and has already been discussed to death. BUT...

After all my reading I'm still not completely sure what to do. The vehicle I'm using is a Suburban so space really isn't an issue. Although I'd like to keep some usable space in the back. I probably want to stay under 8cuft unless going larger would produce substantial gains. I'd like to run no more than 3000watts rms. There's virtually no car audio "scene" where I live so this is really only for my listening pleasure, I'm not interested in competing since there's maybe a couple comps per year within 100 miles of me, I want it really loud if I feel the need but I listen to a very wide variety of music so I'd like some SQ as well. I hope that's enough criteria to help me. I have no preference for speaker size, but I'm sure the more cone area the better. As far as price I'd like to spend as little as possible obviously, but it's pretty easy to talk me into spending more than I want. But realistically I'd like to keep it under $600 or so for sub(s). I was looking at Fi's because there's a decent amount of them used for sale at pretty decent prices. But I don't really know which line would be for me. I know it's a pretty broad question I'm asking. Sorry if you had to read all that.

Thanks.

Not sure I understand your goals from your post. Really loud with some SQ could even be a BTL, depends on your definition of both...

Hard to say !

There are dozens of subs on the market.

You want to use 3000 watts for subs, but not for competitions. You can try 2 12" woofers : I am sure they will fit in the space available with a nice ported box. It's not the only solution !

What do you plan for electrical upgrades? HO alt, several batteries, big3,... You need to do something!

Take a look at the ssa shop, read a little more here to find some other brands if it's not enough!!!

Not sure I understand your goals from your post. Really loud with some SQ could even be a BTL, depends on your definition of both...

Yeah it's a hard question to ask in a way to really generate answers. My last system 7 or so years ago was 2 RE SE 12's 5.5cuft ported powered by a JBL 1200.1 and I was satisfied with the quality of the sound, my basic goal is to have sound quality like that (which shouldn't be too hard) but be louder, if that makes any sense. I see a lot of Fi Q's for sale very reasonably, what are some opinions on them?

Hard to say !

There are dozens of subs on the market.

You want to use 3000 watts for subs, but not for competitions. You can try 2 12" woofers : I am sure they will fit in the space available with a nice ported box. It's not the only solution !

What do you plan for electrical upgrades? HO alt, several batteries, big3,... You need to do something!

Take a look at the ssa shop, read a little more here to find some other brands if it's not enough!!!

I really doubt I'd use 3000 watts, thats just kind of the maximum. As far as electrical upgrades I'd do the big 3 and a good front battery at the minimum.

I'm fairly well versed on anything the SSA shop sells (I think). Although the cheap ass in me keeps looking at the cheaper options like Audioque or Mach 5. I read mixed reviews about the Audioque's but the negative opinions I've read don't seem to be based on anything besides someone saying, "those suck because their cheap." Haven't read much about Mach 5 but they're very reasonably priced.

Lol, the AQ aren't cheap but overpriced. Bang for the buck every line that Mach 5 sells is better than the AQ stuff.

Lol, the AQ aren't cheap but overpriced. Bang for the buck every line that Mach 5 sells is better than the AQ stuff.

Well I was just saying comparatively. Not that I don't believe or value your input but what is so bad about AQ?

Where did I say bad? Just overpriced. Nothing special about them other than the forum boner they created. Compared to what you get with the M5 they are bad, but hell that is a value statement.

If you want to buy from a cheap chinese buildhouse fine, go for it. No skin off my back. A better question would be why are they good? The answers you'll get to that question are all subjective ramblings of people who claim to know something but don't. Not saying there isn't a market niche for them, but they are WAY overvalued on many forums.

Where did I say bad? Just overpriced. Nothing special about them other than the forum boner they created. Compared to what you get with the M5 they are bad, but hell that is a value statement.

If you want to buy from a cheap chinese buildhouse fine, go for it. No skin off my back. A better question would be why are they good? The answers you'll get to that question are all subjective ramblings of people who claim to know something but don't. Not saying there isn't a market niche for them, but they are WAY overvalued on many forums.

I wasn't challenging you on it or saying I was going to buy them. I was just curious because of the buzz about them.

The buzz is a misplaced forum boner. Better options at every price point.

If you're looking for SQ, I've got to ask what you're going to run for midbasses. If your mids won't play below, say, 80Hz you don't want subs that rolloff hard above 50Hz for example.

For a general rule, get as much cone area as you can afford/power/want to fit...I suppose is the simple answer

I REALLY doubt that he is and also am dubious that a Q is the right choice. Hasn't shared enough info with us though to draw any conclusions.

I was planning on MLI-65's in the doors, not sure on tweeters yet. I was planning on 4x10's in the stock locations out back.

What other information should I post to help my case?

I was planning on MLI-65's in the doors, not sure on tweeters yet. I was planning on 4x10's in the stock locations out back.

What other information should I post to help my case?

Any particular reason for using those? I looked up the specs and they have a really high Fs and small Vas...not very good in a door, IMO. There are a literal ton of better drivers for the doors. Maybe not for $27 apiece...but there are options.

Well, with a really high Fs like that, you'd need subs that could play well up to 80Hz or so...not very ideal. I'm doing it now, and it's going to change come spring

I was planning on MLI-65's in the doors, not sure on tweeters yet. I was planning on 4x10's in the stock locations out back.

What other information should I post to help my case?

Any particular reason for using those? I looked up the specs and they have a really high Fs and small Vas...not very good in a door, IMO. There are a literal ton of better drivers for the doors. Maybe not for $27 apiece...but there are options.

Well, with a really high Fs like that, you'd need subs that could play well up to 80Hz or so...not very ideal. I'm doing it now, and it's going to change come spring

In all honesty, I just read that people liked them and I liked the price. Consider me schooled.

I was planning on MLI-65's in the doors, not sure on tweeters yet. I was planning on 4x10's in the stock locations out back.

What other information should I post to help my case?

Any particular reason for using those? I looked up the specs and they have a really high Fs and small Vas...not very good in a door, IMO. There are a literal ton of better drivers for the doors. Maybe not for $27 apiece...but there are options.

Well, with a really high Fs like that, you'd need subs that could play well up to 80Hz or so...not very ideal. I'm doing it now, and it's going to change come spring

In all honesty, I just read that people liked them and I liked the price. Consider me schooled.

Do you have any mounting constraints for the mids in the doors? How much power available?

I was planning on MLI-65's in the doors, not sure on tweeters yet. I was planning on 4x10's in the stock locations out back.

What other information should I post to help my case?

Any particular reason for using those? I looked up the specs and they have a really high Fs and small Vas...not very good in a door, IMO. There are a literal ton of better drivers for the doors. Maybe not for $27 apiece...but there are options.

Well, with a really high Fs like that, you'd need subs that could play well up to 80Hz or so...not very ideal. I'm doing it now, and it's going to change come spring

In all honesty, I just read that people liked them and I liked the price. Consider me schooled.

Do you have any mounting constraints for the mids in the doors? How much power available?

I'm hoping I'm handy enough with fiber glass to make some pods for them (or whatever I choose), I haven't really gotten to the serious planning on a whole lot besides the sub stage. I've only just decided to put a system in this truck about a week and a half ago.

I was planning on MLI-65's in the doors, not sure on tweeters yet. I was planning on 4x10's in the stock locations out back.

What other information should I post to help my case?

Any particular reason for using those? I looked up the specs and they have a really high Fs and small Vas...not very good in a door, IMO. There are a literal ton of better drivers for the doors. Maybe not for $27 apiece...but there are options.

Well, with a really high Fs like that, you'd need subs that could play well up to 80Hz or so...not very ideal. I'm doing it now, and it's going to change come spring

I strongly disagree. They can be run from 40 Hz. all the way up to 2000+ Hz. with great success.

Please explain what you mean about a high Fs? You do know it is a midrange right?

I was planning on MLI-65's in the doors, not sure on tweeters yet. I was planning on 4x10's in the stock locations out back.

What other information should I post to help my case?

Any particular reason for using those? I looked up the specs and they have a really high Fs and small Vas...not very good in a door, IMO. There are a literal ton of better drivers for the doors. Maybe not for $27 apiece...but there are options.

Well, with a really high Fs like that, you'd need subs that could play well up to 80Hz or so...not very ideal. I'm doing it now, and it's going to change come spring

I strongly disagree. They can be run from 40 Hz. all the way up to 2000+ Hz. with great success.

Please explain what you mean about a high Fs? You do know it is a midrange right?

Why run a speaker below its Fs?

And in all honesty, I've never heard of Mach5 until I Googled the model shakes posted. Why are we trying to use a midrange as a midbass? That speaker would be perfect if you put it in a small pod in the kick panels, in addition to like a 9-10" midbass in the door.

I was planning on MLI-65's in the doors, not sure on tweeters yet. I was planning on 4x10's in the stock locations out back.

What other information should I post to help my case?

Any particular reason for using those? I looked up the specs and they have a really high Fs and small Vas...not very good in a door, IMO. There are a literal ton of better drivers for the doors. Maybe not for $27 apiece...but there are options.

Well, with a really high Fs like that, you'd need subs that could play well up to 80Hz or so...not very ideal. I'm doing it now, and it's going to change come spring

I strongly disagree. They can be run from 40 Hz. all the way up to 2000+ Hz. with great success.

Please explain what you mean about a high Fs? You do know it is a midrange right?

Why run a speaker below its Fs?

And in all honesty, I've never heard of Mach5 until I Googled the model shakes posted. Why are we trying to use a midrange as a midbass? That speaker would be perfect if you put it in a small pod in the kick panels, in addition to like a 9-10" midbass in the door.

There is nothig wrong with a driver playing frequencies below it's Fs but let's not get into an off topic debate here.

I agree with the kickpanel, but I would vent it outside.

Why run a speaker below its Fs?

And in all honesty, I've never heard of Mach5 until I Googled the model shakes posted. Why are we trying to use a midrange as a midbass? That speaker would be perfect if you put it in a small pod in the kick panels, in addition to like a 9-10" midbass in the door.

It is being used as a mid in a 2 way and you'd be surprised how low it can play in that regard. For its price, it is hard to beat in particular for its lfe.

You obviously chose not to port a sub for your HT I guess...

I was planning on MLI-65's in the doors, not sure on tweeters yet. I was planning on 4x10's in the stock locations out back.

What other information should I post to help my case?

Any particular reason for using those? I looked up the specs and they have a really high Fs and small Vas...not very good in a door, IMO. There are a literal ton of better drivers for the doors. Maybe not for $27 apiece...but there are options.

Well, with a really high Fs like that, you'd need subs that could play well up to 80Hz or so...not very ideal. I'm doing it now, and it's going to change come spring

I strongly disagree. They can be run from 40 Hz. all the way up to 2000+ Hz. with great success.

Please explain what you mean about a high Fs? You do know it is a midrange right?

Why run a speaker below its Fs?

And in all honesty, I've never heard of Mach5 until I Googled the model shakes posted. Why are we trying to use a midrange as a midbass? That speaker would be perfect if you put it in a small pod in the kick panels, in addition to like a 9-10" midbass in the door.

I highly doubt my system will be that elaborate.

The last time I actually took the time to install anything in a car I had 4x6's in the doors and 6x9's in the rear deck all powered off my head unit and I was completely satisfied with the sound I got. It wasn't anything special but it was enough for me. So I really don't need anything too crazy to be happy.

I was planning on MLI-65's in the doors, not sure on tweeters yet. I was planning on 4x10's in the stock locations out back.

What other information should I post to help my case?

Any particular reason for using those? I looked up the specs and they have a really high Fs and small Vas...not very good in a door, IMO. There are a literal ton of better drivers for the doors. Maybe not for $27 apiece...but there are options.

Well, with a really high Fs like that, you'd need subs that could play well up to 80Hz or so...not very ideal. I'm doing it now, and it's going to change come spring

I strongly disagree. They can be run from 40 Hz. all the way up to 2000+ Hz. with great success.

Please explain what you mean about a high Fs? You do know it is a midrange right?

Why run a speaker below its Fs?

And in all honesty, I've never heard of Mach5 until I Googled the model shakes posted. Why are we trying to use a midrange as a midbass? That speaker would be perfect if you put it in a small pod in the kick panels, in addition to like a 9-10" midbass in the door.

There is nothig wrong with a driver playing frequencies below it's Fs but let's not get into an off topic debate here.

I agree with the kickpanel, but I would vent it outside.

There's nothing wrong, I just meant it takes power...

Why run a speaker below its Fs?

And in all honesty, I've never heard of Mach5 until I Googled the model shakes posted. Why are we trying to use a midrange as a midbass? That speaker would be perfect if you put it in a small pod in the kick panels, in addition to like a 9-10" midbass in the door.

It is being used as a mid in a 2 way and you'd be surprised how low it can play in that regard. For its price, it is hard to beat in particular for its lfe.

You obviously chose not to port a sub for your HT I guess...

I have a ported HT sub, but I didn't build it and have no clue about any specs.

I have a ported HT sub, but I didn't build it and have no clue about any specs.

I've NEVER seen a HT sub that can do anything on todays movies that isn't not only playing below its Fs but regularly they are even tuned below. It really isn't a brick wall on any driver, just a region where you can start to hurt things if you don't know what you are doing.

Good choice on the MLI 65's. They will work very well in a properly dampened door application as a midbass or midrange.

But as far as subwoofers go, do a little comparative shopping in the SSA store and read and learn as musch as you can. You listed running 3000 watts, be prepared to spend to upgrade your electrical (Alt, 1/0 wire and batts). Shitcan the 4x10" speakers in the rear, useless imo.

I ran an Audioque SDC2.5 15" D4 and overall it is an okay woofer, Nothing really great about it. It served it's purpose until I could afford a quality subwoofer setup. For a little more money saved I think you can get much better than AQ in terms of quality. Just my .02

Just about all the manufacturers on the SSA forum can custom build a subwoofer for your application. Just takes a little reading and research.

I have a ported HT sub, but I didn't build it and have no clue about any specs.

I've NEVER seen a HT sub that can do anything on todays movies that isn't not only playing below its Fs but regularly they are even tuned below. It really isn't a brick wall on any driver, just a region where you can start to hurt things if you don't know what you are doing.

Yeah, it's only a 10" 120 watt RCA...hell, don't even know if it has a subsonic filter It sounds decent for what it is. Someday I'll have a 15Hz build Gotta get a house first...

Well anyway...