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I'm actually gonna be runnin dual runs of 8awg wire Pos and Neg to each sub. There will be adapters for them to fit because the wire runs are probably gonne be about 15ft long and the subs will be wired in a manner to accept up to 65A of current through the wire for competition and they will need the most wire possible to support this load with the least voltage loss from amp to sub.

SIngle sub setup, 60A measured current, going from 16ga to 10 ga for each terminal and saw zero gain. The cable runs are generally short. IMO don't bother with dual 8ga per terminal.

  • Author

even at 15ft?

  • Author

hehe, it's a wall and the wire will be installed literally inside of the walls of the enclosure so the wire won't interfere with the air flow.

So it has to run up the baffle, through the ceiling, down the back then out.

I tried dual 8 ga per terminal. dropped to single 8 ga per terminal and saw no difference.

Even at 15 ft, with 70 amps, there just is not going to be much drop with 8 gauge. more drop at the connections than the wire. . .

Is the box removable or built into the car? I have used a 2 part epoxy (like garage floor coating). Just pour it into the box one side at a time and let it sit until it is dry. Make a very smooth surface, but you need to be able to rotate the box to pour it onto each side.

Brian

just thought i'd add a :woot: we need to figure this out sean seeing as i'm gunna be re-building the wall after the evansville show!!! i can be a test dummy lol

  • Author

well, the connections will be as follows-

Dual or Triple tinsel Leads.

99.99% pure Copper terminal adapter insert into speaker terminals(cylinder shape for maximum contact)

A small copper bar attached in between the tinsel leads and the coil inside the sub for the highest current demand possible.

Yes... these subs are being custom built.

  • Author

just thought i'd add a :woot: we need to figure this out sean seeing as i'm gunna be re-building the wall after the evansville show!!! i can be a test dummy lol

the db dragers told me resin and sand would be the best option price-wise.

They said using Polycarbonate sheeting may actually do better on the mic vs resining and sanding but at what cost does a 0.1db increase suffice if it even did?

The view he looked at it was, the adhesive used to adhere glass to wood would be the problem compared to resin which would be part of the wood.

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