I think my current wire from the alt is 8 gauge. It goes into a solenoid or something before the wire goes to the battery. I can't upgrade the wiring to 1/0 straight from the alternator to battery.

Since my alternator is placed in the middle side of the engine. I tried getting to it but is impossible. Gotta pull the engine up or take most of the parts off it.

So frustrating. Would it matter much about the alternator to batt wire size? Since the output on the alt isn't switched I'm just running stock alt.

That wire is really important if you are wanting to run any significant power on your system.

What kind of car do you have?

Your alt power wire might have a fusible link in it, but I've never seen one that runs to a solenoid. Your starter solenoid should have a power wire from your battery and a smaller wire that goes to your ignition, but nothing alt related..... What kind of vehicle do you have? I'm guessing it's something with front wheel drive???

2009 Dodge Caliber Srt-4. So the turbo makes it pretty packed in the engine bay. The wire goes into this thing on one side then a wire is attached on the other side and goes to the battery. It comes stock with a 140A alt. And I talked to every alternator company out there to see if they have one or could make one. No one as of yet could make one. Because there is a solid wire or something in these alts. And they told me these stock alts that come with the car are very solid and put out more then rated.

Edited June 3, 201015 yr by Juice0723

if the stud on the back of the alt is big enough piggyback the big 3 wire on it,then run her to the battery. AKA use both wires. That way you have more wire to play with, and you are not changing stock wiring in any way. Can you do that? That's usually how the big 3 is done anyway...

yeah I know I always do it that way. But I can't even get to the back of the alt I'm trying to say. Can't get to the positive stud on the alt at all. Gotta pull the engine out to do so.

The alt is located in the mid section of the engine. Not like other cars that I previously owned that were easy to do the big 3.

You can't do it from any angle. Intercooler is in the way then behind it is the rad. On top there are way to many things. Too narrow to get at it from the bottom.

I'm going to be running about 4k rms. So I think I should upgrade that wire. I got XS Power batts waiting to go in.

You got to be able to get to it without pulling the engine. I'm sure you'll have to uninstall the alternator, but that's no biggie. If you have to remove parts, you can remove the fans and radiator to get access? That'd be a good thing ot an extent, then you could hit two birds with one stone and perform a coolant flush. If your running anywhere near 4k, your car and amp are gonna be in a world of hurt. I run around 2500 watts in my car, with 2 18 wheeler batteries and I have to limit my stop light bass mekanik sessions as it is. With 4k on your setup, whoa!!!!!

I may be able to get access by removing the front fans, radiator, and intercooler. And the grills in front of those. That would take forever since the whole turbo setup is in the way. Have to undo all the hoses that go to the intercooler and everything. My car is brand new as well. One guy on my cars forums had to switch the alt. It took him 6 hours and that is the base caliber. No turbo kit. So it will be quite abit longer because of my turbo.

Edited June 3, 201015 yr by Juice0723

Some cars, years back, used Diodes to keep the electrical current going in one direction. That was some time ago, but maybe there's a reason yours MIGHT have one too?????

my friend has a caliber right now as a rental car. I'm selling him some JL stuff today. So, I'll take a look at his engine. It's still a little off since it's NA.

You gotta by a Chiltons manual and a saturday and go to work Then you can find out your other questions and at least you got the manual.

I looked at my buddies caliber today. I would remove the drive belt, then unbolt the power steering pump from the bottom. It looked like 3 bolts. The pumps' hoses would move so you don't have to disconnect them. After moving the pump aside, you should be able to get to the alternator. This was a non turbo caliber I looked at. I hope yours is close to the same. It looked pretty easy, just seemed like it'd take a few hours if you took your time.

k got some pics of the alt location.

Hooked up my batts today as well. They were sitting for about a week.

Wires are not connected, both batts by themselves.

rear batt

front batt

Batts connected to each other.

Front batt

rear batt

Rear batt voltage at idle.

Pics of batts installed, many wires lol.

What's your voltage at full tilt at idle? And what's your setup?

I'm going to be using my crossfire vr4000d on two 12" custom built ssackett subs. So 4-4600 watts rms.

now just gotta play it and measure voltage. Do you have a LCD volt meter in dash?

The Stinger SVMB voltage meter hopefully is here soon. I ordered one in blue. I watch my voltage with my deck as well. 880prs.

yeah I got my alt to batt 1/0 wire installed today. it was a pita. I don't see any change really in voltage though. I guess it will now just charge the batts quicker when the voltage drops?