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So your gonna have you sub crossed from 50hz on down on a low pass filter. Then your gonna have your midbass speakers play bandpassed from 60hz-100hz and I guess have some components to play from 120hz on up.

Maybe Im reading this wrong but that seems like these are your goals, correct me if im wrong.

well the sub will be at 60hz at 24db, the 8" midbass at 50hz-100hz and the components at 90hz-100hz. I will need to play around with them a little once installed, so it may not be exactly that, but that is what i am going for.

Am i missing something here or are u not going to have anything playing above 100hz?

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  • Instead of asking us to do all of the "leg work" and submit drivers for your "approval".....why don't you do the leg work, find some midbass speakers that fit your budget and goals, and if you are uns

  • Paper cones can be just as strong as basically any other cone material. It's not your everyday copy-paper type. Many subs use paper cones and have no issues. Do not count a driver out based on this

  • jcarter1885
    jcarter1885

    Visit these sites to check out different drivers you can run: madisound.com parts-express.com usspeaker.com Go check out zaphaudio.com and see his reviews on speakers as well.

  • Author

oops I will edit it I typo'ed something lol sry.

IMO you are heading down the wrong path.

I would be looking more into something like THIS or THIS or THIS

I dont mean to thread jack but how does he know which 8"s will do what he wants? Looks at as many reviews as he can?

IMO you are heading down the wrong path.

I would be looking more into something like THIS or THIS or THIS

I dont mean to thread jack but how does he know which 8"s will do what he wants? Looks at as many reviews as he can?

More googling on his part basically.

Are there usually any modification involved placing 8" drivers in the doors? Kind of curious since my front stage sucks ass.

IMO you are heading down the wrong path.

I would be looking more into something like THIS or THIS or THIS

I dont mean to thread jack but how does he know which 8"s will do what he wants? Looks at as many reviews as he can?

Research, reviews, and learning how to understand some of the information on the drivers presented on those pages.

Fundamentally there is still one really major problem. If you have a 15" sub with a ton of powering playing 60Hz and want an 8" midbass to "keep up" with it at 61Hz you are going to have to find a midbass that embarasses that sub. Good luck with that.

Yes I know that the filters are far from brick wall, that was just to clarify the ridiculousness of the request. Figure out the cone area and excursion difference and the acoustic potential of the 15 will KILL anything in that range. If the OP truly would describe his GOALS as outlined in the little notes in my sig we would come to a different conclusion I am sure. I can surely make an educated guess on the best solution for him, but he makes more stupid threads without any input that we need on his part so I don't feel like it. I'll give you a MAJOR FUCKING hint though. Rethink your subs crossover point. For your goals they make no sense.

On top of that, determining crossovers and slopes before you get the drivers is a major fail. They will sound like ass with the guess settings and really need to be "tuned" in place. No one can ever tell you ahead of time what they "should" be.

  • Author

well now that my xcon has had many many hours of playing it is broken in and it itself can hit the higher notes, but i have noticed now that my amp is horrible at any high notes, it distorts and draws a lot more power, yes I know class d amps are better at the low notes, but I think I need a sundown amp now, gotta go save some money. I hope a sundown is good up to 80/90hz, it should be with all that quality. Before the xcon did die before it got broken in, now that this xcon got broke in all the way it hits much better, and I also found out the srs trubass was causing some cancellation also. Its always turned on by default on my radio. now at least I can focus on a new amp instead of all those mid-bass drivers.

  • Author

well I think it might not being getting enough power, because the voltage never dips at 30hz but when a 70hz note plays my voltage drops really low.

Are there usually any modification involved placing 8" drivers in the doors? Kind of curious since my front stage sucks ass.

Yes.

How much depends on the vehicle.

I've seen two cars that fit 8" speakers factory, Mazda RX-8s and newer Corvettes with factory BLOSE.

Needs-More-Cowbell.jpg

But seriously, you should be able to accomplish what you want with simple crossover adjustment.

Or the other Idea I liked was to go sealed.

Problem solved

  • Author

I have been thinking sealed, but I don't want to stop using the enclosure I spent $400 on. Also I am measuring the voltage using the car factory voltage gauge, I have checked it for accuracy and it was dead on compared to the multimeter. I just need a better amp and a new alternator, my hifonics amp isn't the greatest for distortion. But the better alternator will have to wait until my next car. I have played with the crossover settings, i have tried setting it from 60hz to 90hz with 12db and 24db slopes. so far 70hz at 24db sounds the best, but 60hz has the least voltage dip.

well now that my xcon has had many many hours of playing it is broken in and it itself can hit the higher notes, but i have noticed now that my amp is horrible at any high notes, it distorts and draws a lot more power, yes I know class d amps are better at the low notes, but I think I need a sundown amp now, gotta go save some money. I hope a sundown is good up to 80/90hz, it should be with all that quality. Before the xcon did die before it got broken in, now that this xcon got broke in all the way it hits much better, and I also found out the srs trubass was causing some cancellation also. Its always turned on by default on my radio. now at least I can focus on a new amp instead of all those mid-bass drivers.

What amp do you have currently? Why doesn't it play the upper frequenices but yet play the lower frequencies? Please explain in more detail.

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