thanks guys.. you are really making me feel alot better.. getting wires ready for my day off so I can get this all done

Ok. Some new news.... I got the HC1800 in my car now. It's rough again but I am less weary of thiscuz ofall your posts. The car was unhooked for a good 3-4 hours. I'm gonna take some pics after I get it all figured out. Then I will start off on the Big 3 wire management.

Just let the car run and it WILL fix itself.

Just let the car run and it WILL fix itself.

He'll have to drive it, not just let it run. It will have to cycle through a couple open/closed loops to worlk everything out.

Yea, I had to drive it. I left it 30 min undriven in the driveway and it was still kinda rough. Drove around doing errands and it took care of itself. I notice the car is actually smoother when idling than the previous battery which was a Redtop.

Now, moving on.. I have a RF 1 Farad cap in the back that I've had since I installed the system into my car. Question is, with the new Kinetik HC1800, is it necessary to have it anymore? am I putting more strain onto the alternator? I have read so many bad things lately about the caps that I'm tempted to remove it from my setup.

Just let the car run and it WILL fix itself.

He'll have to drive it, not just let it run. It will have to cycle through a couple open/closed loops to worlk everything out.

Yea, I had to drive it. I left it 30 min undriven in the driveway and it was still kinda rough. Drove around doing errands and it took care of itself. I notice the car is actually smoother when idling than the previous battery which was a Redtop.

Now, moving on.. I have a RF 1 Farad cap in the back that I've had since I installed the system into my car. Question is, with the new Kinetik HC1800, is it necessary to have it anymore? am I putting more strain onto the alternator? I have read so many bad things lately about the caps that I'm tempted to remove it from my setup.

Interesting cause everytime mine fixes it own in park. heh maybe im special

Yea, the first time I test fit the wiring it seemed fine but when I did all the soldering and left the car unhooked(3-4hours) it seemed like it was rough idling for way too long. Possibly had to do with how long it was unpowered for.

So back to the cap, think it is a good idea to remove it? Am I not in need of it anymore? Just wondering, I believe my older setup was pulling a 2 ohm load and that is why it was helpful. Since I'm gonna go for a SSA Dcon I figured at 4 ohm the cap won't be necessary? True or Not True?

Yea, the first time I test fit the wiring it seemed fine but when I did all the soldering and left the car unhooked(3-4hours) it seemed like it was rough idling for way too long. Possibly had to do with how long it was unpowered for.

So back to the cap, think it is a good idea to remove it? Am I not in need of it anymore? Just wondering, I believe my older setup was pulling a 2 ohm load and that is why it was helpful. Since I'm gonna go for a SSA Dcon I figured at 4 ohm the cap won't be necessary? True or Not True?

Here's a fun read for you: http://www.squidoo.com/audiocapacitors

Great read...

Best part was the advert for capacitors on ebay. Lmfao

Pics of old connections:

Pics of new connections (homemade):

^^ connects factory wiring with power to amp and my homemade extension ^^

Positive and Negative terminals:

Whole look from afar:

By the way,

Let me know when you want one of these bad boys

270 on the top end and 160-180 at IDLE not 800 rpm idle but IDLE on the bottom end.

By the way home made extension is a bad idea... if it grounds you'll have a fire.

thanks bearer of bad news... guess I will have to make sure that doesn't happen. heat-shrink and electrical tape here we come. And I think I have some wire loom around my room somewhere.. BTW, did you answer any inquiries lately from the DC Power site? lolz

I think I can come up with a method to adhere the mutli-connector/extension piece for my positive wires .... maybe a double-sided tape fixture that will mount to the back side of the battery or on the air filter housing... More to come.

Edited September 10, 201015 yr by Shogen

That's not even needed.

Take the battery out.

Take the airbox out.

remove the alternator positive from the battery

go to the starter b+ terminal and put the accessory positive on the starter b+ along with a brand new 0 gauge wire and call it a day. did it on mine and oh boy does my car start faster

that way, no bare wires!

i dont even use my stock alternator positive.. just ran 0 gauge across to the battery by the radiator.

i installed a bracket system behind my radiator and used 1\4" all-thread to weave the alt charging cables around it then direct to battery.

i installed a bracket system behind my radiator and used 1\4" all-thread to weave the alt charging cables around it then direct to battery.

shizzz... got any pictures? would love to see how that looks...