My truck has started to rattle..the door panels..the roof..and I was looking for deadeners..whats the best one for the price?

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

that is all you need...

Some people use Dynamat which is a very high quality product but expensive. there are less expensive products on the market, such as Fat Matt or Lizardskin, however these products tend to be of a lesser quality than the pricier options. Another option would be to go with products from Second Skin Audio(secondskinaudio.com), the company I represent. keep in mind that there is quite a bit of labor involved in the installation of sound deadeners, and the lower quality products often do not perform as well as the more expensive ones, and sometimes require you to restart the entire project because they fall off. the main thing you want to avoid when shopping for sound deadeners is any products that uses asphalt or roofing materials in it. Dynamat, Second Skin Audio, and a few others do not use any asphalt or roofing materials in their products. I'm sure you will have many people offering you their opinions before 24 hours from now. use this information along with their opinions as you will.

AX

Oh yeah SecondSkin is good from what I've heard/read as well... Possibly gonna order some for the cabin of my Toy Cam soon.. Gotta get a better box first. And then a better amp for the front stage..

But SDS and SecondSkin are both rated highly around the community.

SDS from Don or SecondSkin would be the best options for you!

Also check this link for a lot of great information http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/forum/111-sound-deadening/

I would highly recommend the products from SDS: www.sounddeadenershowdown.com

I would highly recommend the products from SDS: www.sounddeadenershowdown.com

As would I Jude!

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

that is all you need...

x2

if you decide to buy some jude, let me know. i may get some too and we can split cost.

Thanks guys, I'm looking at some SS CLD tiles.

It's really important when looking at a problem like this to figure out what is going on. The quick answer is always "put some deadener (vibration damper) on it" but that may not really be what you need. Vibration damper will control panel resonance. That vibration can eventually loosen panels and lead to rattles but remember - rattles are always two or more hard objects making intermittent contact. Adding vibration damper may help and it may help prevent the conditions that led to the rattling, or not.

We care about panel resonance because it can energize rattles, but more because it selectively reinforces the sound we hear at the natural frequency of the resonating panel. This only matters when you are looking for accurate reproduction. We also want to control panel resonance because it is a mechanism for transmitting noise into the vehicle from the outside. All of this means that sound deadener (vibration damper) has an important role to play when we care about quality musical reproduction and a quiet vehicle.

It sounds to me like you were happy with things at first, beat the hell out of the vehicle and now it's starting to rattle. If what you want is to get back to the way things used to be, vibration damper isn't going to be the best answer. What we're really talking about in this case is accelerated wear. All of the clips and fasteners that used to be nice and snug have been moved around enough that they are wearing out. I'm really tempted to make an analogy to a a woman here, but will resist the urge. There are basically two approaches you can take to this problem. You can go through the vehicle and replace the clips and fasteners so that they are tight again or you can put something between the objects making contact to stop them from doing so. The best material for this is closed cell foam. Line the backs of the trim panels. Soft will be hitting hard and it won't make any noise. This will also take up some of the slack that has been created.

If you care about resonance, apply vibration damper to the sheet metal while the panels are off. If not, you're good. This is really the inevitable result of adding more pressure to the system than it was designed to handle. Big dude, little chick kind of problem (couldn't resist )

If you care about resonance, apply vibration damper to the sheet metal while the panels are off. If not, you're good. This is really the inevitable result of adding more pressure to the system than it was designed to handle. Big dude, little chick kind of problem (couldn't resist )

hahaha i love it.

Listen to Don, e-mail him at [email protected], tell him all your problems, and let him hook you up.

(i think a bit of cld on the exposed sheet metal and some ccf in-between thos loose panels you have back there sounds good, but Don knows best))

EXPLENATION

this was very informative and funny

I have used dynamat extreme and SS damplifier pro.

Both are nice.

I have not used any of Don's products, but prolly would on my next build. He was the only person in the industry that wasnt telling people to add multiple layers covering 100% then spray some crap on top of that.

Too late for me on the Yukon. I spent a shit load of cash on it.

I personally use Dynamat Extreme. I live literally 5 minutes away from the factory so I have to support them (gotta help the community.) It goes on with ease, and I have had it on for 1.5 years and you still couldn't pull it off if you tried. The only other thing I've heard that is comparable to Dynamat Extreme is Second Skin's Damplifier Pro.

(i think a bit of cld on the exposed sheet metal and some ccf in-between thos loose panels you have back there sounds good, but Don knows best))

It really depends on what you are trying to accomplish. If you're purely going for SPL, you have to be careful with how you use vibration damper. The simple fact is that vibration dampers turn vibrations, that can become sound, into heat, that can't. For SPL, you want the vehicle to contain pressure. Picture a balloon and a beer bottle. You can create a lot more internal pressure forcing air into the beer bottle than the balloon. The balloon will expand to accommodate the air. Both will explode at some point, but the beer bottle will resist a lot more pressure before it does. Now cover the balloon with Band-Aids. It'll resist a little more pressure than before, but still no where near the beer bottle. You want an SPL vehicle to be a beer bottle.

You get there by bracing the panels that would otherwise distort in response to the pressure you are exposing them to. It really doesn't matter how thick the foil on a CLD is - it is going to be a poor stiffener for steel. It's also going to be converting vibration to heat.

You can have it both ways, sort of. If you want to contain pressure but also want to eliminate resonance at lower volumes - when you care what the music sounds like, brace the panels in a way that divides each into several smaller panels. This is going to limit the amplitude of the resonance and each sub-panel will have a higher resonant frequency than the undivided panel did. A bit of CLD on each sub-panel will control that efficiently. Since the amplitude is limited by the bracing, less energy will be converted into an unmeasurable heat.

Best Bang for Buck I found is Ballastic.