Paint the port with flames, automatically adds 3dBs

(I don't know how it works, but it does.)

And don't forget to duct tape around the sub.

Hey now, that can actually gain a couple tenths, worth it if you compete in serious shit

Hey now, that can actually gain a couple tenths, worth it if you compete in serious shit

I know, but it's still funny to see.

Hey now, that can actually gain a couple tenths, worth it if you compete in serious shit

I know, but it's still funny to see.

Yeah, only way I'd use it is if I was at 149.9 lol

What's your budget like? And electrical?

Shouldn't have any problems fitting a 18" driver in. Comes down to budget.

I'd get that used btl posted above or a new n2.

2 12s would have a little less cone area than an 18, but more motor force.

Single driver is certainly cheaper too

I have a 140 alt and a yellow top battery.

I have a 140 alt and a yellow top battery.

That's definitely not going to cut it if you plan on running 2500 watts. The amp will get past the alternator voltage and go down to batt voltage pretty easily. So if you're wanting to limit voltage drop, you either need to beef up your alt or get a couple of batts to put near the amp. If you run that amp hard with the kind of electrical, I can easily see you dipping down to the 10's.

Edited March 13, 201114 yr by RAM_Designs

I have a 140 alt and a yellow top battery.

That's definitely not going to cut it if you plan on running 2500 watts. The amp will get past the alternator voltage and go down to batt voltage pretty easily. So if you're wanting to limit voltage drop, you either need to beef up your alt or get a couple of batts to put near the amp. If you run that amp hard with the kind of electrical, I can easily see you dipping down to the 10's.

I have a 140 alt and a yellow top battery.

That's definitely not going to cut it if you plan on running 2500 watts. The amp will get past the alternator voltage and go down to batt voltage pretty easily. So if you're wanting to limit voltage drop, you either need to beef up your alt or get a couple of batts to put near the amp. If you run that amp hard with the kind of electrical, I can easily see you dipping down to the 10's.

how do you wire them?

was also wondering bout the port measurements

I have a 140 alt and a yellow top battery.

That's definitely not going to cut it if you plan on running 2500 watts. The amp will get past the alternator voltage and go down to batt voltage pretty easily. So if you're wanting to limit voltage drop, you either need to beef up your alt or get a couple of batts to put near the amp. If you run that amp hard with the kind of electrical, I can easily see you dipping down to the 10's.

how do you wire them?

was also wondering bout the port measurements

r what ever

How to wire additional batteries in the rear?

If your adding the same type of battery to the rear that's in the front then you can run some 0/1 gauge wire or what ever from the positive terminal on starting battery to the positive terminal on the rear battery, then ground the negative terminal on the rear battery to the chassis like you would an amp.

If the rear batts are different then the starting battery then some people add solenoids so the voltage difference between the batteries doesn't cause them to drain each other. Also, solenoids can allow you to play the stereo with the vehicle off and only drain power from the rear batts so you don't kill your starting battery.

how do you wire them?

Run the positive wire from the front batt to the rear batts and then to the amp. Ground from the amp to the rear batts and then to a ground on the vehicle.

but i dont have to run a negative all the way back? ive heard both ways.?

but i dont have to run a negative all the way back? ive heard both ways.?

It's optional, you don't have to.

but i dont have to run a negative all the way back? ive heard both ways.?

It's optional, you don't have to.

THanks. so i was also wondering if i should go with the p chamfer option or the cooling which includes it, cuz it says it weakens it.