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Featured Replies

Posted

I will be fiberglassing an enclosure for my SA-15 into the spare tire well, but don't know if it will be happy in a sealed box.

I listen mainly to hip hop and occasionally rock, so I want it to hit those low notes with some authority, but seeing as it has such a high F3 I'm not to sure if it will do that.

Also seeing everyone else who picks up one of these ports it, I don't want to build a sealed enclosure to find out that it isn't what I want.

I'd like to go sealed to make the install easier since it'll be my first time fiberglassing and building a box, and to save a little room and keep the design much simpler as I would like to maintain as much hatch space as I can.

I assume you know the whole thing can't be fiberglass. Why not do ported? It would be just as easy to glass over.

  • Author

The sides and top will be mdf, I'm not doing fiberglass for aesthetics, just to form to the vehicle tire well to use as much space as I can and to keep it in place. Top will be a flat piece of mdf just carpeted over so the space will still be usable

I'm not really sure how I would implement a port into the design unless it is able to go over the sub without any negative effects like so:

(excuse the periods through the 'drawing', but they are needed to keep alignment)

...front of car --->.....____________

____________ ______________...|

|.........| sub...|.... port__________|

|___ .....|___|............. ___|

......|_______________|

(side view)

If you had some ideas for another style I'd love to see them, but I'm still interested to know how the sub will perform in a sealed enclosure built to spec or if ported is really the only way to go with these things.

Edited by poke_joster

The sides and top will be mdf, I'm not doing fiberglass for aesthetics, just to form to the vehicle tire well to use as much space as I can and to keep it in place. Top will be a flat piece of mdf just carpeted over so the space will still be usable

I'm not really sure how I would implement a port into the design unless it is able to go over the sub without any negative effects like so:

front of car ---> ____________

____________ ______________ |

| | sub | port__________|

|___ |___| ___|

......|_______________|

(side view)

If you had some ideas for another style I'd love to see them, but I'm still interested to know how the sub will perform in a sealed enclosure built to spec or if ported is really the only way to go with these things.

What kind of car?

RSX

We designed a 15" box for my friends RSX-S but it wasn't all fancy.

So it's possible, but will take some work.

  • Author

You have any pics or a link to some?

Was it ported or sealed, and how did you think the outcome was compared to the others you've done?

You have any pics or a link to some?

Was it ported or sealed, and how did you think the outcome was compared to the others you've done?

It was a large ported box. We haven't built it yet, will be done soon though.

  • Author

I'm just looking to see how the sub will perform in a sealed box, if it will be able to hit those lows with authority or if it has to be ported. The design for one over the other doesn't really change much, but the sealed would be much simpler and leave much less room for error. I would build the sealed and build it so it could be turned into ported, but the fact that the ported needs another half cube of internal space, it wouldn't be at all practical. My main goal in this is to maintain as much trunk space as I can without compromising on sound, otherwise I'd just build two box enclosures to compare and call it a day. But since I will be fiberglassing it in I want to do it once and be done with it, and be happy with it.

I'm just looking to see how the sub will perform in a sealed box, if it will be able to hit those lows with authority or if it has to be ported. The design for one over the other doesn't really change much, but the sealed would be much simpler and leave much less room for error. I would build the sealed and build it so it could be turned into ported, but the fact that the ported needs another half cube of internal space, it wouldn't be at all practical. My main goal in this is to maintain as much trunk space as I can without compromising on sound, otherwise I'd just build two box enclosures to compare and call it a day. But since I will be fiberglassing it in I want to do it once and be done with it, and be happy with it.

A ported box need ALOT more space then a sealed box. You can't just turn a sealed box into a ported box.

  • Author

What are you tuning it to? and what is your internal space before displacement, and port area dimensions and length. Is it an SA-15 by chance?

  • Author

I'm just looking to see how the sub will perform in a sealed box, if it will be able to hit those lows with authority or if it has to be ported. The design for one over the other doesn't really change much, but the sealed would be much simpler and leave much less room for error. I would build the sealed and build it so it could be turned into ported, but the fact that the ported needs another half cube of internal space, it wouldn't be at all practical. My main goal in this is to maintain as much trunk space as I can without compromising on sound, otherwise I'd just build two box enclosures to compare and call it a day. But since I will be fiberglassing it in I want to do it once and be done with it, and be happy with it.

A ported box need ALOT more space then a sealed box. You can't just turn a sealed box into a ported box.

Which is why that isn't an option. Otherwise I wouldn't be too concerned.

What are you tuning it to? and what is your internal space before displacement, and port area dimensions and length. Is it an SA-15 by chance?

I think it's 5 cubes, 100^2 area of port, it's a DD 9515".

  • Author

What would I want to tune the SA-15 to, and what would be the internal volume and port area + length need to be?

I've tried playing around with winISD but I know I'm not doing it properly, and don't trust anything I do with it.

What would I want to tune the SA-15 to, and what would be the internal volume and port area + length need to be?

I've tried playing around with winISD but I know I'm not doing it properly, and don't trust anything I do with it.

I don't trust any program.

How much power do you have?

What would I want to tune the SA-15 to, and what would be the internal volume and port area + length need to be?

I've tried playing around with winISD but I know I'm not doing it properly, and don't trust anything I do with it.

I don't trust any program.

How much power do you have?

even calc.exe?

  • Author

Ya, so long as it can keep up with the beat and keep a smile on my face.

I've got a set of ID xs-65's to be powered with an SAX-100.4 bridged for up front

Ya, so long as it can keep up with the beat and keep a smile on my face.

I've got a set of ID xs-65's to be powered with an SAX-100.4 bridged for up front

Personally I would do 4 cubes net, with 80^2 of port, tuned to 35Hz.

But none of those fancy shit. lol

welcome to the darkside son!

I say 3 cubes tuned to 30-32

Edited by eggyhustles

  • Author

Why wouldn't you tune it any lower?

How long would that port have to be?

It's the fancy shit that's been deterring to me for building a port, but I don't want it any other way =/

Although, I could put the amps in the tire well and build a regular box that could just sit on top and be moved to make things easier..

  • Author

welcome to the darkside son!

I say 3 cubes tuned to 30-32

Haha awesome, I've been waiting for you to chime in. You picked out all this equipment for me, now I don't know how I want to implement it lol

Would the 3 cubes be internal before or after displacement? And what would the port area and length need to be to tune to that?

  • Author

So the three cubes wouldn't include the sub displacement or that area/volume of the port? Just checking about port because I've never been to sure.

How do I go about calculating port area/length?

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