The magic numbers for the DCON 10 seems to be 1.25 cu ft, tuned to 32hz. Does the vehicle really have any significant play on that?

I don't compete or anything. I just hear this thing really performs with little power. I've got all the components of my budget

system except the sub and box. For some reason it's the hardest thing for me to decide on. I really wanted to get away with a prefab box, but

they are all tuned around 38hz. What's the point of buying a decent sub if you're not going to maximize it's potential?

Anyway, As far as box building goes are there any walkthroughs or step by step type guides? I can figure out all the dimensions and cuts but

the assembly, bracing, gluing, etc. is kinda foggy and vague. I did find an excellent design for a slot port box, but was kind of hoping

to get away with a tube port as it seems less complicated.

Sorry for the rambling, I just don't really know where to start. I've used the http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31 link to help determine

required port length. If I could just figure out how to determine the port volume that's taken up, then I could figure the require dimensions to make it

equate 1.25 cu. ft. minus driver displacement.

Thanks for any help.

The magic numbers for the DCON 10 seems to be 1.25 cu ft, tuned to 32hz. Does the vehicle really have any significant play on that?

I don't compete or anything. I just hear this thing really performs with little power. I've got all the components of my budget

system except the sub and box. For some reason it's the hardest thing for me to decide on. I really wanted to get away with a prefab box, but

they are all tuned around 38hz. What's the point of buying a decent sub if you're not going to maximize it's potential?

Anyway, As far as box building goes are there any walkthroughs or step by step type guides? I can figure out all the dimensions and cuts but

the assembly, bracing, gluing, etc. is kinda foggy and vague. I did find an excellent design for a slot port box, but was kind of hoping

to get away with a tube port as it seems less complicated.

Sorry for the rambling, I just don't really know where to start. I've used the http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31 link to help determine

required port length. If I could just figure out how to determine the port volume that's taken up, then I could figure the require dimensions to make it

equate 1.25 cu. ft. minus driver displacement.

Thanks for any help.

I would check the build logs for a step by step...i think it would take too long to explain in a single post. Heres a very broad one real quick:

1-Find max dimensions for your car//max your comfortable with

2-Use a box tuning calc and enter your dimensions and mess with port size to get desired tuning. (RE has one on their site; and Torres calc even better)

3-Once you do that itll give you the dimensions to cut the wood

4-Cut, Glue, and clamp then screw (pre-drill) (SPAX screws - Titebond II or III glue)

*Also you have to take into consideration the woofer displacement and bracing displacement. I would go with a L-port though, its really nt that hard.

This is just a very broad step by step as i said above...I would check the build logs for a more descriptive one.

Edited May 12, 201114 yr by Jack3d SPL