Posted May 20, 201114 yr So I have a Poineer 3200bt, Pioneer TS-D1720C 6.75" speakers/tweets on a Pioneer GM-9500F amp, 12" RD Alpha V.2 powered by a Cadence ZRS-8 (1500rms). I have 1/0 gauge from my battery then it runs into a distributor with two 4 gauge leads coming out to the amps. 12 gauge from my 9500F to the speakers/tweets. I had the cadence amp and sub in my previous car ('98 accord coupe) and my lights would dim a little with the volume high. In my 2011 mazda 3 I sedan. I have my volume at 24 and the lights dim on every bass note, and I was on the freeway last night got my rpm's at 3k and at 26 my lights were still dimming. The bass on the HU is set to -4 and I can turn my speakers (with subwoofer off) up to 35 with no distortion and it gets hella loud with no dimming. So I want to know if I could just add in an extra battery in the trunk if this would fix my dimming? I don't want to have to keep turning my bass down when I turn my volume up.Plus I want to get a video of the setup so everyone can see it The first day I got the entire install complete I had the bass on the HU at -4 with my volume at 36 and the sub was shaking the hell out of my car, but I know it was killing my alternator so I want to get this problem fixed without having to upgrade my alternator.
May 20, 201114 yr So I have a Poineer 3200bt, Pioneer TS-D1720C 6.75" speakers/tweets on a Pioneer GM-9500F amp, 12" RD Alpha V.2 powered by a Cadence ZRS-8 (1500rms). I have 1/0 gauge from my battery then it runs into a distributor with two 4 gauge leads coming out to the amps. 12 gauge from my 9500F to the speakers/tweets. I had the cadence amp and sub in my previous car ('98 accord coupe) and my lights would dim a little with the volume high. In my 2011 mazda 3 I sedan. I have my volume at 24 and the lights dim on every bass note, and I was on the freeway last night got my rpm's at 3k and at 26 my lights were still dimming. The bass on the HU is set to -4 and I can turn my speakers (with subwoofer off) up to 35 with no distortion and it gets hella loud with no dimming. So I want to know if I could just add in an extra battery in the trunk if this would fix my dimming? I don't want to have to keep turning my bass down when I turn my volume up.Plus I want to get a video of the setup so everyone can see it The first day I got the entire install complete I had the bass on the HU at -4 with my volume at 36 and the sub was shaking the hell out of my car, but I know it was killing my alternator so I want to get this problem fixed without having to upgrade my alternator.This will help A LOTBIG 3
May 21, 201114 yr 105a alt *12 = 1260wattsso yes more reserve would help.Also make sure you charge ur battery
May 21, 201114 yr Author Would it help using my 1/0 gauge wire for the big 3? A guy at an audio shop picked up my wire and said that it is really light and then brushed finger at the end of the 1/0 gauge and said that it wasn't 100% copper, that it has nickel in it, which I could see the silver in the wire. This would still be better than what I have for my stock electrical wouldn't it? I'm assuming I have maybe 4 gauge at the biggest for my stock electrical wiring.
May 22, 201114 yr Author haha that's my bad, he did say aluminum, I don't know why I typed nickel. Anyways, would it still be better to use my 1/0 gauge instead of the stock electrical wiring?
May 22, 201114 yr Well you shouldn't remove the factory wiring. I just ran mine along side. Some remove it some don't. I personally didn't. Your cca wire should be fine. You don't need all that much wire though. Just call a local welding supply store and see if they sell welding wire. It's a lot cheaper and is pure copper.
May 22, 201114 yr pure copper needs to be protected or it will oxidize.. go to a hardware store and look for an anti or no-oxidant gel or paste u can apply to the exposed wire after securing it into a terminal.
May 31, 201114 yr i think you can also get HIDs which will stop the dimming. but big 3 maybe new alt and battery which i think it all was said
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