Definitely better. Their build quality and aiming suck which are the two most important things. IMO its harder to rebuild something than to bulid it, although if they were cheap, ie $15 I'd buy them just for the outer mold and cut the shit out of the rest of them.

Definitely better. Their build quality and aiming suck which are the two most important things. IMO its harder to rebuild something than to bulid it, although if they were cheap, ie $15 I'd buy them just for the outer mold and cut the shit out of the rest of them.

Yeah, but I think there a few hundred and don't even have them specific to my car, so yeah.

I bought a lot of materials so I can try different things and not have to worry about running out.

This may be easier said then done, but I'm thinking about once I have the baffles aimed and mounted, to try and cut out small wood panels to go around on the sides (basically to fill in open areas). So the shape and contour of the kick pod isn't 100% dependent on the baffle and base, or I'll have volcano looking pods. Then stretch the fabric, resin, and so forth.

Of course I may just get the baffles mounted, stretch the fabric over, and it's fine.

Your much better off doing it by hand as you can get the sound you want and they will be solid construction.

Your much better off doing it by hand as you can get the sound you want and they will be solid construction.

Yeah, just the idea was just tempting for it's easiness, but realistically not a chance.

Definitely better. Their build quality and aiming suck which are the two most important things. IMO its harder to rebuild something than to bulid it, although if they were cheap, ie $15 I'd buy them just for the outer mold and cut the shit out of the rest of them.

There not even worth the flimsy outer mold. I will never use them again or even recommend them. Worst thing is there not even sealed.

Definitely better. Their build quality and aiming suck which are the two most important things. IMO its harder to rebuild something than to bulid it, although if they were cheap, ie $15 I'd buy them just for the outer mold and cut the shit out of the rest of them.

There not even worth the flimsy outer mold. I will never use them again or even recommend them. Worst thing is there not even sealed.

Funny you say that because I'm actually planning on cutting open the back of mine once there finished.

Definitely better. Their build quality and aiming suck which are the two most important things. IMO its harder to rebuild something than to bulid it, although if they were cheap, ie $15 I'd buy them just for the outer mold and cut the shit out of the rest of them.

There not even worth the flimsy outer mold. I will never use them again or even recommend them. Worst thing is there not even sealed.

Funny you say that because I'm actually planning on cutting open the back of mine once there finished.

How much are you planning on cutting out? Q-Logic has no back what so ever, meaning they are flimsy as hell.

Definitely better. Their build quality and aiming suck which are the two most important things. IMO its harder to rebuild something than to bulid it, although if they were cheap, ie $15 I'd buy them just for the outer mold and cut the shit out of the rest of them.

There not even worth the flimsy outer mold. I will never use them again or even recommend them. Worst thing is there not even sealed.

Funny you say that because I'm actually planning on cutting open the back of mine once there finished.

How much are you planning on cutting out? Q-Logic has no back what so ever, meaning they are flimsy as hell.

Mine won't flex or bend at all. Not sure how much I'll cut out, I'll probably take a sharpie to the back, outlining the hole, then post it up to see what Sean or Brad have to say.

Definitely better. Their build quality and aiming suck which are the two most important things. IMO its harder to rebuild something than to bulid it, although if they were cheap, ie $15 I'd buy them just for the outer mold and cut the shit out of the rest of them.

There not even worth the flimsy outer mold. I will never use them again or even recommend them. Worst thing is there not even sealed.

Funny you say that because I'm actually planning on cutting open the back of mine once there finished.

How much are you planning on cutting out? Q-Logic has no back what so ever, meaning they are flimsy as hell.

Mine won't flex or bend at all. Not sure how much I'll cut out, I'll probably take a sharpie to the back, outlining the hole, then post it up to see what Sean or Brad have to say.

Listen to them first sealed is what I'd say. It also wouldn't hurt to measure the volume of the "enclosure" and model them with your drivers and then model them IB to see the difference. Then relisten and see if the difference is desirable. If so, then its time to vent into the fender. Most likely venting will be your friend unless you end up with some serious volume.

Definitely better. Their build quality and aiming suck which are the two most important things. IMO its harder to rebuild something than to bulid it, although if they were cheap, ie $15 I'd buy them just for the outer mold and cut the shit out of the rest of them.

There not even worth the flimsy outer mold. I will never use them again or even recommend them. Worst thing is there not even sealed.

Funny you say that because I'm actually planning on cutting open the back of mine once there finished.

How much are you planning on cutting out? Q-Logic has no back what so ever, meaning they are flimsy as hell.

Mine won't flex or bend at all. Not sure how much I'll cut out, I'll probably take a sharpie to the back, outlining the hole, then post it up to see what Sean or Brad have to say.

Listen to them first sealed is what I'd say. It also wouldn't hurt to measure the volume of the "enclosure" and model them with your drivers and then model them IB to see the difference. Then relisten and see if the difference is desirable. If so, then its time to vent into the fender. Most likely venting will be your friend unless you end up with some serious volume.

Good point.

Vented gives a big increase in the lower range, Which I want

And I can always use the 31band eq in the ms8 to bring any peaks down.

What program is that your using to plot the Exodus drivers?

WinISD

Vented? Doubt you have that much space, should be comparing IB to sealed...until you measure the actual size of what you build.

And you don't want that peak...

Vented? Doubt you have that much space, should be comparing IB to sealed...until you measure the actual size of what you build.

And you don't want that peak...

Ill compare ib when im home. I can find the volume of the pods with cat litter or rice.

If I eqd the major peak at 55hz region, then gradually eqd the rest, wouldn't it have more output but still sound pretty linear in response?

Why force yourself to eq when you don't have to? The goal is always to minimize processing IMO. Obviously when you need it you need it, but having to use it is one thing and avoiding using it better. Everything is a compromise but I'd try not to have your mid peak like that.

Ill graph the ib. and see how much volume I can really get. Off hand I remember a super low tuning was equivalent to the sealed response, but just higher spl overall

Wanna guess which plot is sealed, vented, and IB?

Okay I guess it's not hard to figure out...

GREEN

-----

vented

0.25ft^3

40hz

BLUE (This one seems to be pretty linear like the sealed, but with a little more output)

-------

vented

0.25ft^3

30hz

YELLOW

------

sealed

0.25ft^3

PINK

----

IB

Okay doing vented with low tuning is going to have an extremely long port length, so that's out.

IB only has an increase in output from around 30hz - 55hz. (who knows with cabin characteristics). I may end up adding a subwoofer down the road, so output in the bottom range isn't a huge concern. Now if it was 150hz or something, that would be a different story.

So from modeling, it looks like I should just do sealed.