It will be to the left of the second picture, the right of the third.

Hmmm. I'll check it out when I'm out of work.

that inlet tube connects to the throttle body. Follow the path like this, air filter box, mass air sensor tube, keep going a little bit until the black plastic tubing ends and that the throttle body. Its the part you can rev your engine by hand. I might be wrong but looks like your car might have a plastic cover hiding it a bit that you have to remove to see everything better.

that inlet tube connects to the throttle body. Follow the path like this, air filter box, mass air sensor tube, keep going a little bit until the black plastic tubing ends and that the throttle body. Its the part you can rev your engine by hand. I might be wrong but looks like your car might have a plastic cover hiding it a bit that you have to remove to see everything better.

Hmmm. I looked for that Rev by hand area in the past and never found it. :-\

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1997-2003-LEXUS-ES300-TOYOTA-SOLARA-CAMRY-THROTTLE-BODY-/180767889205?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2a169b1735#ht_4170wt_1396

Something like this. The rubber air inlet hose hooks to one end, the other bolts to the intake manifold.

Sounds like your car is idling right below the turn-on speed of this unit.

As you can't go with a smaller pulley there are ways to safely increase your idle speed enough to keep the unit charging.

On your throttle body there will be a throttle stop set screw, idle air bypass screw or both. The idle air screw may have a round plug covering it. You can use one of those to slightly increase your idle speed and correct your charging issue.

Your battery resting voltage is fine, 12.6-12.8 is good.

As long as your alternator is grounded directly to the battery and the battery has good grounds to the chassis there is no point in grounding your engine again.

Hmmm. Care to share more on that location???

Having a '02 Camry with the 2AZ-FE engine this does not exist. The 2AZ-FE Camry is a drive by wire. The 1MZ-FE was a drive by cable but not on the 2AZ-FE. You're unfortunately stuck with the low RPM unless you purposefully modify the IAC which can and most likely throw the PCM off for when it adjusts. The car idles anywhere from 550~ to 650~ with a 2" pulley on the alternator will idle at around 2,000 alternator RPM with your A/C on at 650 Engine RPM and 1,650 alternator RPM at 550 Engine RPM.

Sorry for the bad news.

Also, to give you an idea where RPM on the tach is in correlation to actual RPM. Here is my car:

Pictures were taken after I had my battery disconnected for like an hour, so the PCM was still learning.

Sounds like your car is idling right below the turn-on speed of this unit.

As you can't go with a smaller pulley there are ways to safely increase your idle speed enough to keep the unit charging.

On your throttle body there will be a throttle stop set screw, idle air bypass screw or both. The idle air screw may have a round plug covering it. You can use one of those to slightly increase your idle speed and correct your charging issue.

Your battery resting voltage is fine, 12.6-12.8 is good.

As long as your alternator is grounded directly to the battery and the battery has good grounds to the chassis there is no point in grounding your engine again.

Hmmm. Care to share more on that location???

Having a '02 Camry with the 2AZ-FE engine this does not exist. The 2AZ-FE Camry is a drive by wire. The 1MZ-FE was a drive by cable but not on the 2AZ-FE. You're unfortunately stuck with the low RPM unless you purposefully modify the IAC which can and most likely throw the PCM off for when it adjusts. The car idles anywhere from 550~ to 650~ with a 2" pulley on the alternator will idle at around 2,000 alternator RPM with your A/C on at 650 Engine RPM and 1,650 alternator RPM at 550 Engine RPM.

Sorry for the bad news.

Thanks for that info Kyle

TBH it isn't so badd... Apparently servicing/cleaning the throttle body can somewhat help improve idle rpms once all that crud is removed...

Also, to give you an idea where RPM on the tach is in correlation to actual RPM. Here is my car:

Pictures were taken after I had my battery disconnected for like an hour, so the PCM was still learning.

Yea, I was gonna say that second picture looked insanely low... lol

Sounds like your car is idling right below the turn-on speed of this unit.

As you can't go with a smaller pulley there are ways to safely increase your idle speed enough to keep the unit charging.

On your throttle body there will be a throttle stop set screw, idle air bypass screw or both. The idle air screw may have a round plug covering it. You can use one of those to slightly increase your idle speed and correct your charging issue.

Your battery resting voltage is fine, 12.6-12.8 is good.

As long as your alternator is grounded directly to the battery and the battery has good grounds to the chassis there is no point in grounding your engine again.

Hmmm. Care to share more on that location???

Having a '02 Camry with the 2AZ-FE engine this does not exist. The 2AZ-FE Camry is a drive by wire. The 1MZ-FE was a drive by cable but not on the 2AZ-FE. You're unfortunately stuck with the low RPM unless you purposefully modify the IAC which can and most likely throw the PCM off for when it adjusts. The car idles anywhere from 550~ to 650~ with a 2" pulley on the alternator will idle at around 2,000 alternator RPM with your A/C on at 650 Engine RPM and 1,650 alternator RPM at 550 Engine RPM.

Sorry for the bad news.

Thanks for that info Kyle

TBH it isn't so badd... Apparently servicing/cleaning the throttle body can somewhat help improve idle rpms once all that crud is removed...

It can but remember, this is all computer controlled so the IAC will adjust more and more as it gets dirtier it may help at first, but it will most likely adjust itself back down to the old RPM you were seeing.

double post due to server lag.

and adjusting the AVBM exactly as instructed should help some too. Good luck.

Thanks Kyle, I was afraid that his car was a drive-by-wire.

Your best option right now is to look at performance flash tuning. Companies that can flash your computer can usually raise your idle with no side-effects.

Hmmmm. I do appreciate the help guys. Any companies you know so I can get a start???

I don't know of any.. Toyota ECUs are really hard to crack and I wouldn't personally reprogram my ECU to raise the RPM... too many things can go wrong IMO.

I'll redo the avbm after like 30-45min ride this time and report back.

I don't know of any.. Toyota ECUs are really hard to crack and I wouldn't personally reprogram my ECU to raise the RPM... too many things can go wrong IMO.

Gotcha

I would start looking locally. but be very picky please. Lots of "know it all's" will probably charge up the booty for this too.

for the ECU thing or the throttle body cleaning???

the ECU thing lol the throttle body can of spray and a old sock will clean the throttle body. Just put the sock on your hand spray into the TB and some on sock and finger that bish!!!!

As always good luck bro.

the ECU thing lol the throttle body can of spray and a old sock will clean the throttle body. Just put the sock on your hand spray into the TB and some on sock and finger that bish!!!!

As always good luck bro.

Thank you sir....

Look at the companies that are tuning these cars with superchargers and turbos, they generally have a solution.

I don't deal with the tuning on many Japanese imports, primarily European and domestic for me.

Came across this :

http://www.performancechiptuning.com/Voltage+Performance+Chip+Module/7/

Came across this :

http://www.performancechiptuning.com/Voltage+Performance+Chip+Module/7/

Im on my phone but it looks like shit to me.

I think it uses magic fairy dust.

They don't go into any details on how it works, just a box that looks like it has some capacitors possibly, and a bunch of wire for additional grounding.

" *

Save Up To 5% On Fuel!

*

Increase Horsepower Up To 7% more hp!

*

Easy to install - Takes Less Than 20 Minutes!

*

Fits All Makes And Models Of Cars And Trucks!

*

Works On Carbureted And Fuel Injected Engines!

*

For Gasoline And Diesel Engines!

"

Yeah I don't think that little box is going to increase HP or MPG, much less solve your issue.

Aside from using a smaller pulley (which may very well be a bad idea), personally it sounds like you should just leave it be, just no long demos in the parking lot.

thinking about getting a mechman alt, are they worth the money and wait?