Looking good!

cooling blades look like they will move alot of heat out of that alt.

i see what your talking about now that is covered with powered. when will you be installing your alternator?

i see what your talking about now that is covered with powered. when will you be installing your alternator?

Tomorrow morning... or like in 6hrs lol

i see what your talking about now that is covered with powered. when will you be installing your alternator?

That coating is from the factory, it's epoxy.

Okay, so I need some major help..

When I had installed the MechMan alternator I realized my ride home from the mechanic yieled insane voltage variance so I called MechMan and spoke to Eric... He told me I should upgrade the wire as soon as I can since it needs to carry more amperage than the stock ... I went home and did the positive post to the positive terminal on the battery and then I did the alternator casing to negative terminal on the battery... Then I went ahead and did the adjustment to the avbm again since I wanted to make sure everything was charging right..

I called Mechman and spoke with Matt who told me I could use a mount hole that was on the casing but to sand off the coating which I did... so wiring was all done, I install a 300a fuse and good to go...

Now the issue is my voltage drops at idle to insane low numbers.... 12.6v and under... I called Mechman and they asked the resting voltage of my batteries and I couldn't give a definitive answer since I hadn't tested in a while... Matt stated that stock alternators have better voltage at idle rpm than the Mechmans since that is how they are manufactured.. and they kick in really at 700 rpm OK .... So I take it for what it is... On my way to work I was driving around and everything was great, voltage steady at 14.9-15.2v when above 1k on the dash... Once at a red light, my voltage began to drop to 12.2 and then 12.6 and then 12.0v ... I got worried and revved the engine to 1k to get the voltage back up .. at this point I turned off the music so I could see how that affected the voltage... At the next red light I experienced the same voltage drop to 12.0v then jump back to 12.6 ..

Again once I get about 1k the voltage is steady at 14.9v ... I am assuming my car is idling under 600 maybe even 400 since I'm guessing by looking at the needle...

What can I do to make sure it isn't the alternator?

I think I need to charge the batteries overnight ??.. I have a HC1800 under the hood, and a HC800 in the trunk....

Hey!

Battery resting voltages are : 12.76(front) and 12.72(rear) .... Is that okay???

hi

at idle, with your foot on the break and the car is grear the Rpm of the car is normaly pretty low. around 400~500 and its normal for the voltage to be lower.

im not sure about on mech man unit... .and it has a tiny pully on it too.. i wouldnt think it would be that low..

at idle, with your foot on the break and the car is grear the Rpm of the car is normaly pretty low. around 400~500 and its normal for the voltage to be lower.

im not sure about on mech man unit... .and it has a tiny pully on it too.. i wouldnt think it would be that low..

This is the car in park, sitting in the lot... No audio being played, obviously amps are on by music is not played at all... My idle does the same as this...

EDIT: also an installer that comes by my job once in a while came in today and I mentioned it to him and he thinks maybe I need another ground possibly... He said I should do another from alternator to chassis on top of the one I have going straight to the negative terminal on the battery....

What's your feeling on that jon???

Edited December 5, 201113 yr by Shogen

Very nice!! Ive heard alot of good about his alts.. Maybe someday I can buy one lol

Sounds like your car is idling right below the turn-on speed of this unit.

As you can't go with a smaller pulley there are ways to safely increase your idle speed enough to keep the unit charging.

On your throttle body there will be a throttle stop set screw, idle air bypass screw or both. The idle air screw may have a round plug covering it. You can use one of those to slightly increase your idle speed and correct your charging issue.

Your battery resting voltage is fine, 12.6-12.8 is good.

As long as your alternator is grounded directly to the battery and the battery has good grounds to the chassis there is no point in grounding your engine again.

Sounds like your car is idling right below the turn-on speed of this unit.

As you can't go with a smaller pulley there are ways to safely increase your idle speed enough to keep the unit charging.

On your throttle body there will be a throttle stop set screw, idle air bypass screw or both. The idle air screw may have a round plug covering it. You can use one of those to slightly increase your idle speed and correct your charging issue.

Your battery resting voltage is fine, 12.6-12.8 is good.

As long as your alternator is grounded directly to the battery and the battery has good grounds to the chassis there is no point in grounding your engine again.

Hmmm. Care to share more on that location???

Can you send me a pic of your throttle body? I need to see it from a couple angles and where the throttle cable connects. Then I can explain better what you want to do.

Keep in mind that this must be done with caution and at your own risk. This has been done by many people but must be done slowly and safely to prevent runaway.

Got it.

Can you send me a pic of your throttle body? I need to see it from a couple angles and where the throttle cable connects. Then I can explain better what you want to do.

Keep in mind that this must be done with caution and at your own risk. This has been done by many people but must be done slowly and safely to prevent runaway.

is that right???

That's a throttle body

Actually no, that's not a throttle body. That's your MAF and intake hose, it's where the cables hook into the throttle body.

Oh you're right, I thought the piece with the wires coming off was the tb. Must be tucked farther down there Danny.

Actually no, that's not a throttle body. That's your MAF and intake hose, it's where the cables hook into the throttle body.

which picture is closest to it? lol ..

Oh you're right, I thought the piece with the wires coming off was the tb. Must be tucked farther down there Danny.

where at??? lol

It's connected to the intake manifold.