February 6, 201213 yr Sound deadening: Long story short I don't want to deal with sound deadening products for now. I was given the suggestion by a member here, M5, of using lead for adding weight to the panels in order to lower flex and noise levels. My goal here is to make the vehicle as quiet as possible-reduce road noise and block the music for the outer world. I would like opinions on the lead idea and tight polyfill stuffing in the voids of the inner interior skin. I have no intentions of selling the car so the polyfill and gluing(yes I am gluing the lead to the metal panels) is no problem for me.i think you confusing some of the info m5 gave you. mlv is an alternative to lead. do some reading at sounddeadenershowdown.com, great infolead or mlv acts as a barrier. cld tiles reduce vibration of panelspolyfill wont do anything beneficial in the doors. polyfill + water = moldI asked him and he said both effects will be present. Why wouldn't lead stop vibrations of the panels? You are adding a lot of weight.I've read whole Don's site.I had no intentions to put polyfill in the doors. But in all other places where there are voids between two metals, as it will be hard to add lead there. Sound and temperature isolation is what I am looking from it. Got the idea from here: http://youtu.be/WemxDv4K57g?t=3m45syour call on the polyfill, not sure if i would go that far in my own car. so the lead would be glued to the panels? i understand that it would add mass to the panels but i would think 25% coverage with cdl tiles would be easier to install.
February 6, 201213 yr Author @ The enD , those scanspeaks R3004/602010 should be usable from 1,1khz with a 24db slopeI'll look into it.Sound deadening: Long story short I don't want to deal with sound deadening products for now. I was given the suggestion by a member here, M5, of using lead for adding weight to the panels in order to lower flex and noise levels. My goal here is to make the vehicle as quiet as possible-reduce road noise and block the music for the outer world. I would like opinions on the lead idea and tight polyfill stuffing in the voids of the inner interior skin. I have no intentions of selling the car so the polyfill and gluing(yes I am gluing the lead to the metal panels) is no problem for me.i think you confusing some of the info m5 gave you. mlv is an alternative to lead. do some reading at sounddeadenershowdown.com, great infolead or mlv acts as a barrier. cld tiles reduce vibration of panelspolyfill wont do anything beneficial in the doors. polyfill + water = moldI asked him and he said both effects will be present. Why wouldn't lead stop vibrations of the panels? You are adding a lot of weight.I've read whole Don's site.I had no intentions to put polyfill in the doors. But in all other places where there are voids between two metals, as it will be hard to add lead there. Sound and temperature isolation is what I am looking from it. Got the idea from here: http://youtu.be/WemxDv4K57g?t=3m45syour call on the polyfill, not sure if i would go that far in my own car. so the lead would be glued to the panels? i understand that it would add mass to the panels but i would think 25% coverage with cdl tiles would be easier to install.It would add a lot of time to the whole process of deadening, but as stated above for now I am not dealing with any sound deadening brands.
February 6, 201213 yr you're actually going to add lead to the doors ? lead is about 6 times as heavy as those cld tiles ... some heavy doors you'll get .... just read an article ... these audax 1,5 inch tweeters need modding but seems to be a good option article
February 6, 201213 yr @ the enD , those scanspeaks R3004/602010 should be usable from 1,1khz with a 24db slopetweets do look nice but they fall pretty hard 10-15k range... Not sure how much that would matter though.... and they are $165 a pop....*** unless directly on-axis ... Edited February 6, 201213 yr by Shogen
February 6, 201213 yr @ the enD , those scanspeaks R3004/602010 should be usable from 1,1khz with a 24db slopetweets do look nice but they fall pretty hard 10-15k range... Not sure how much that would matter though.... and they are %165 a pop....*** unless directly on-axis ...I wouldn't worry too much about that.
February 6, 201213 yr @ the enD , those scanspeaks R3004/602010 should be usable from 1,1khz with a 24db slopetweets do look nice but they fall pretty hard 10-15k range... Not sure how much that would matter though.... and they are $165 a pop....*** unless directly on-axis ...I wouldn't worry too much about that.I'm gonna assume your response it to the frequency comment...
February 6, 201213 yr Okay, I said MLV you said more effective than that so I answered lead. Sound blocking is ALL about mass.As for deadening, that requires a constrained layer not mass. You "need" both.You aren't making things easy. Pro audio drivers in general need a lot of processing, considering those Sundowns are exactly just a set of those they are going to need some love. Conveniently you are adding a CarPC. The MOST flexible dsp's available are via CarPC's so let's assume you will do that in the future and everything you have for now will just be temporary.Then it's going to come down to your goals. I can guess since you are implementing a 10" pro audio driver, but that will leave only one solution to match and its a set of horns. Nothing else short of a 3 way will do output wise what I expect you are looking for. Of course the horns will sound pretty rough using only your amps crossovers, but again a CarPC can solve that rather quickly.Unlike Brad, I personally love the full range and midbass. The best sounding (non-ridiculous $$) systems I have heard have all been that way. None of them will have the output to keep up with the rest of your system though nor would they really make that much sense in this application. I'd also say on axis and tweeters in car isn't usually the best idea either...but its no worse than predetermining your aiming without listening first.So what to do? Find some used horns and hurry up with the car pc.
February 7, 201213 yr So what to do? Find some used horns and hurry up with the car pc.The best option.
February 7, 201213 yr @ the enD , those scanspeaks R3004/602010 should be usable from 1,1khz with a 24db slopetweets do look nice but they fall pretty hard 10-15k range... Not sure how much that would matter though.... and they are $165 a pop....*** unless directly on-axis ...I wouldn't worry too much about that.I'm gonna assume your response it to the frequency comment...completely on-axis will give bad reflexions from the left door window ...possibly very annoying ...I'd point a bit more to the middle would also benefit sound on passenger side
February 8, 201213 yr I'm doing some simliar thinking as well, and was anit horn, but seeing that suggestions have been thats the way to go with his setup, I may see it as an option with mine. That being said, what horns do you recommend?
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