play a test tone, crank it to your highest listing volume , take a DMM set it on 12 v DC and put the red on the middle of the male and the black on the outside jacket of the rca and vuala RCA voltage

Music is alternating current. He'll need to set it to AC, not DC.

Just use 1 RCA?

correct/

I'm thinking its that wiring. do you know how the subs are wired going to the speaker terminals on the box?

The subs are like this.

The 2 positives and 2 negatives that are left each have there own terminal.

The two negatives are tied together at the amp and the two positives are tied together at the amp making a one Ohm load.

If you saw the and how they wired it I thought it was wrong.

I wired it like this

Checked with a DMM it is 1Ohm

Edited April 22, 201213 yr by Fearz

oh ok so the 2 pos is on terminal on the speaker box and the 2 neg is one terminal on the speaker box.....makes more sense.

Have you tried connecting the 2 pos terms then running 1 wire to the amp, and doing the same for the neg. I wonder if the amps trying to bridge something or something like that and thats why its going into protect.

Ok...if you're getting 1 ohm then I'm out of ideas lol

play a test tone, crank it to your highest listing volume , take a DMM set it on 12 v DC and put the red on the middle of the male and the black on the outside jacket of the rca and vuala RCA voltage

Music is alternating current. He'll need to set it to AC, not DC.

Just use 1 RCA?

correct/

Do I need a test tone disk because all I have is music.

Fearz, this won't happen when vol is low, disconnect RCAs and just let amp run for a long time and see if it ever goes into protect.

If it doesnt, run a new set of RCAs to headunit.

Fearz, this won't happen when vol is low, disconnect RCAs and just let amp run for a long time and see if it ever goes into protect.

If it doesnt, run a new set of RCAs to headunit.

Is it not supposed to happen when the volume is low?

What's a long time? and I don't have anymore RCA's

Edited April 22, 201213 yr by Fearz

i dont know. u said longest time u've played the amp is 45min..

I'd shoot for 1-2hrs.

i dont know. u said longest time u've played the amp is 45min..

I'd shoot for 1-2hrs.

I can't really drive around for 1-2hrs Shizz.

i'm assuming you have no bench tester power supply available?

We can only narrow down to a certain extent until it looks like you are going to have to start borrowingpurchasing things to test with further assuming this cannot be sent off for warranty service inspection just yet.

different RCA cable

different amp

different headunit

I believe we are down to these 3 things right now.

i'm assuming you have no bench tester power supply available?

We can only narrow down to a certain extent until it looks like you are going to have to start borrowingpurchasing things to test with further assuming this cannot be sent off for warranty service inspection just yet.

different RCA cable

different amp

different headunit

I believe we are down to these 3 things right now.

Ok I will try to make a trip to my sisters house.

i'm assuming you have no bench tester power supply available?

We can only narrow down to a certain extent until it looks like you are going to have to start borrowingpurchasing things to test with further assuming this cannot be sent off for warranty service inspection just yet.

different RCA cable

different amp

different headunit

I believe we are down to these 3 things right now.

Ok Shizzz not a mile(about 1min 30sec) from my house RCA's unplugged amp protected. Voltage 15.4. I pulled over and restarted and amp protected after 30sec.Voltage 15.3 . I also have a vid,but I have to go to my friends house to upload.

Edited April 22, 201213 yr by Fearz

ok, this is no good!

unplug all speaker wires from amp and let it come on and see if it ever protects.

this means no rcas and no speaker wires.

I would suggest letting it rest overnight(in case thermal problem is an issue too) if it still protects after doing this.

ok, this is no good!

unplug all speaker wires from amp and let it come on and see if it ever protects.

this means no rcas and no speaker wires.

I would suggest letting it rest overnight(in case thermal problem is an issue too) if it still protects after doing this.

Wouldn't that drain the shit out my batts. I could try it on the way to work tommorow. I know speakers read 1Ohm. Also when it protects it's cool to the touch because I had my cousin in the back seat and he said it was "cold as ice" when it protected the other day. Also everytime I seen it protect it has been cold being that I had to pull over to feel it so it may have cooled down in 30secs

Edited April 22, 201213 yr by Fearz

drain batts?

I'm suggesting unplug rcas and speaker wire.

With amp on, it will only draw idle current, which is typically less than 3A. With vehicle on, that's nothing.

drain batts?

I'm suggesting unplug rcas and speaker wire.

With amp on, it will only draw idle current, which is typically less than 3A. With vehicle on, that's nothing.

With vehicle on, Ok

Oh you said overnight I was like What?

Edited April 22, 201213 yr by Fearz

I really think it is the voltage because the more I have been paying attention it seems to protect at 15.4 or around there.

It shouldn't be though. I believe the bc series is stable up to 18 volts but anything over is protect.

Mine charges at 15.1 at times and the only protect ive had was full tilt burp at .25

It shouldn't be though. I believe the bc series is stable up to 18 volts but anything over is protect.

Mine charges at 15.1 at times and the only protect ive had was full tilt burp at .25

I believe the 2k is 16.8, but mine is a first run and may have a bad protection circuit or something. My DMM reads 1Ohm at the speaker terminals, and like I said before if my voltage goes down to 14.9 or below it plays. I know I can't lose anymore sleep over this though.

Edited April 22, 201213 yr by Fearz

where is your stinger meter measuring voltage at?

If it's not directly at the amp.. then measure at the amp what dc voltage is.

If it comes to be the amp doesn't like 15.1v+, there are ways to positively incorporate safe shitty wiring methods

where is your stinger meter measuring voltage at?

If it's not directly at the amp.. then measure at the amp what dc voltage is.

If it comes to be the amp doesn't like 15.1v+, there are ways to positively incorporate safe shitty wiring methods

At the amp sir. The stingers positive is connect right to my amp power. I just double checked that the stinger is deadon with my DMM while the vehicle is running.

Edited April 22, 201213 yr by Fearz

just for kicks, remove some things that benefit maintaining voltage in the rear to get your voltage down some and see if it helps.

If you need help doing that, hehe.. there are many things to create resistance.

just for kicks, remove some things that benefit maintaining voltage in the rear to get your voltage down some and see if it helps.

If you need help doing that, hehe.. there are many things to create resistance.

But, isn't that just a bandage to a bigger problem? I know once my car warms up it settles to 14.4 or sometimes 12.8 while driving(thanks GM). The amp plays fine at any volume them. I know cause I was banging coming from work. Voltage at 13.8-14.0. Drive from work is about 25-30min. Also I have my amp on a switch so I remote started the vehicle and then when I got to the car I turned on the amp. Voltage was 14.7-14.9 when I turned it on after leaving work.

Edited April 22, 201213 yr by Fearz

We are in the testing for a solution right now, nothing permanent.

If everything we said were to be taken permanent, you'd be having one sloppy looking install, hehe.

Ok cool I'll run out and let the car warm up before I turn the amp up.