this amp is supposed to put out 1500 rms and i'm pretty sure it doesn't so if i get an amp that puts out real watts i'm positive i'll hear a difference

You are not going to hear a difference between that Hifonics and any amp of similar rating.

As stefan said, you'd need to double the power output to end up with something that is hopefully louder.

If you want to change amps for some other reason (size, features, etc) then it might be worth it. If you want to switch amps just the "hear a difference" then it is absolutely not worth it.

well i'm looking at an amp that puts out 2000 actual watts. This one i think only puts out around 750 if i had to guess

No. That amplifier is outputting more than 750w (assuming you have it running @ 1ohm, I don't remember the thread & not searching for it).

If we assume the amplifier is indeed over rated some and is only outputting 1200w and you "upgrade" to a 2kw amplifier, the difference is only 2.2db before power compression, realistically you'll end up somewhere around 1.5db or less. That's not a difference you are going to hear.

so if i buy an amp thats 2000 rms real watts i wouldn't notice any audible difference? I plan on going from the hifi1500 which isn't certified to the brutus 2100 which is certified

so if i buy an amp thats 2000 rms real watts i wouldn't notice any audible difference? I plan on going from the hifi1500 which isn't certified to the brutus 2100 which is certified

Probably no audible difference in output.

alright then i will go ahead and save the money haha. How about my box. It was built in a shop 7 cuft fairly big port. its my profile pic. What kind of box would you use and what dimensions. I have a 98 blazer and really don't wanna go above the head rests. I want a loud box but it's a daily driver not for burps

alright then i will go ahead and save the money haha. How about my box. It was built in a shop 7 cuft fairly big port. its my profile pic. What kind of box would you use and what dimensions. I have a 98 blazer and really don't wanna go above the head rests. I want a loud box but it's a daily driver not for burps

That box seems about right. What is it tuned to? how much port area?

it's tuned to 35. The dimensions of the port are. Height: 15" Width: 6" Depth to back of box 23" Depth to end of port 13.5

so if i buy an amp thats 2000 rms real watts i wouldn't notice any audible difference? I plan on going from the hifi1500 which isn't certified to the brutus 2100 which is certified

No difference and the certification doesn't really mean so much either.

alright well is the port the right size ?

i don't know how to calculate port are or how much i would need for these subs? and is my tuning ok? It's around 35

Its has 45 sqin of port area. Is that enough?

If you haven't done any sound deadening you might want to go that route. If you cut down on road noise and vibrations, your system will be perceived lo be louder. Don of SDS is a regular on this forum and will give you great advice and won't sell you anything you don't need.

Its has 45 sqin of port area. Is that enough?

I would use more than 45, I thought you said the port opening was 15 X 6?

It has 90sq in of port

it is. I was saying its 45 per sub. its 90 all together

it is. I was saying its 45 per sub. its 90 all together

90 is good then.

alright so since getting a bigger amp won't help, my box is the proper size. Should i just put sound deadener in??

^{what if i did 2 2ohm amps that were 1500 watts? Would that make an audible difference?}

In theory about 3dB. Real world something less than that becaues of power compression. Aubdible, yes. Distinctly louder? No.

alright so if i come across the money i'll do it but i wont' stress over it. I Still feel like the should be louder. I'm gonna redo my electrical system and see if i can't get some more power from the amp

There comes a point where you're not going to get any louder without committing much more time (install, tweak and tune) and resources (space, money and utility) to the system. Power is a quickly diminishing return and frictional losses in the form of power compression make it even more so. You also have to invest in the electrical support (batteries, wire, alternator, etc...) to support that extra power.

Cone area is slightly more reliable, but there are still losses in the form of phasing cancellation that keep you from realizing the full potential. That said, you can only fit so many drivers and so much cone into a given space, and once you begin sacrificing box volume to cram more drivers into the space, you start hurting system efficiency.

after doing research i found that my box is actually to small. It's 6.7 cubes net volume if you take out the volume of my port and cone area it comes down to about 5.6 cubes so i'm having a new box built that is 8.4 cubes gross volume with a port to maximize performance should make them sound quite a bit better seeing as they actually have enough room