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I used to have them up to 2kHz... and I can say that's not the best place to have them...

Weren't you the one always going on about how npdang is retarded and the XXX's sounded great crossed at 2khz ?

:P;):peepwall:

Nah, the absolute highest I'd take them and still sound unstressed is around 1.6kHz...

Now having a correct match, and hearing it... personally I'll keep them @1.2kHz.

;)

nG

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I used to have them up to 2kHz... and I can say that's not the best place to have them...

Weren't you the one always going on about how npdang is retarded and the XXX's sounded great crossed at 2khz ?

:P;):peepwall:

Nah, the absolute highest I'd take them and still sound unstressed is around 1.6kHz...

Now having a correct match, and hearing it... personally I'll keep them @1.2kHz.

;)

nG

My .02 based on the numbers... Both the extremis and XXX do nicely at a 1.2khz xover point (4th order would be best...) :)

The bump in the FR at 1khz is to a large extent a measurement artifact. The null at 1.7khz though is a soft cone edge mode that happens to be particularly nasty as far as they come... Ideally I would like this mode at least 20dB down, however since it is a distortion mostly on the time domain instead of nonlinear distortion I could see with settling for ~10dB down being good enough considering this is a car we are talking about...

On the other hand I do not like the idea of using the XT19 with an xover point under 2.5khz or so 4th order... 2-2.2khz could be managed with an elliptical xover at reasonable volumes though I still wouldn't suggest it... It will start taking on a harsher characteristic as the distortion products climb...

PS the Dayton RS drivers are very nice :)

I mated my XXX6.5's with the custom XT25's from Ascendant. I've taken them down to 1.6kHz @24dB/oct...

nG

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word... XT25's will have a lower extension, and the 19's will have a better off-axis response. (what ive read at DIYMA ;))

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dang im seriously also thinking about the Seas NExtel 7"s less xover work, and the woofer will naturally cut off, and let the Vifa's take over... of course im gonna have to drop almost 4 bills for it....

dang!!!

  • Author

now im lookin into the mpyres gahr.

this was the toughest decision since my LI vs SE vs watever debate hehe.

dang im seriously also thinking about the Seas NExtel 7"s less xover work, and the woofer will naturally cut off, and let the Vifa's take over... of course im gonna have to drop almost 4 bills for it....

dang!!!

Just go active, it isn't like you can't find any good amps...it took me a bit to get over that hurdle but it is so fun to tweak!

  • Author

amps arent a problem lol, its just finding the right drivers is driving me nuts.

Sorry to cut into ur topic here but im haveing the same issue as you, only differnce is Im looking for a driver that can take 150Wrms, If i started looking into home speakers are they alot differnt then car speakers?? well other then the 8ohms.

Iced, the differences are typically negligible. 8 ohm will cut your power in half, but home speakers are frequently near twice as effecient meaning the same volume at half the power which basically gives you the same sound and your amp runs cooler. I have home audio speakers in my car with about the power your are looking to use and I love them. In my case they are crossed over active via a Coustic DX-28 and all amped separately.

Side note: the biggest difference will be if you run passive crossovers since the impedance difference will change the crossover point by an octave, but since crossovers must be designed for each combination of drivers (way preferably with measurements in situ) to be any good this shouldn't be a problem.

  • Author

i think i might have room for a 3-way hehe.

edit: nvm 3-way is too much work :faintthud:

Iced, the differences are typically negligible.  8 ohm will cut your power in half, but home speakers are frequently near twice as effecient meaning the same volume at half the power which basically gives you the same sound and your amp runs cooler.  I have home audio speakers in my car with about the power your are  looking to use and I love them.  In my case they are crossed over active via a Coustic DX-28 and all amped separately.

Side note: the biggest difference will be if you run passive crossovers since the impedance difference will change the crossover point by an octave, but since crossovers must be designed for each combination of drivers (way preferably with measurements in situ) to be any good this shouldn't be a problem.

Thanks for all the info, and Im going all active to. If you dont mind me asking what are u running?

i think i might have room for a 3-way hehe.

edit: nvm 3-way is too much work  :faintthud:

Come 'on, its not that much work. :lol2:

As for your question Iced: Rlp 12" sealed w/500wrms from PG zx475ti, SEAS Excel W18 at 135w PG M44, ScanSpeak/Alpine D2904 with RFP150HD crossed by a Coustic DX-28.

Well, PAC parts returned my email, but it was not to my liking. Apparently, the tweets are the same as in the F1 kit, but this model number actually is a type X and the woofers are NOT the revs. Sorry for the confusion.

  • Author

f1's use the XT19's? or XT25's? cuz i may just pick those up from there.

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