In my progression to finish my build, some of my amps may require amp inserts for dual cables per input.

Now, i have the tools here to make it, that's easy.

The thing i do NOT like about these inserts is how they are secured in the amp.. just by the little set screw on the amp.. For holding a solid piece, i fear the insert can "turn" eventually and i don't like that.

Instead, i thought about purchasing a Metric tap and die set to tap the power and ground inserts on the amps.

There appears to be enough metal in there to do so easily.

I do not know 100% what size tap i need but i got some micrometers here to find out but the question is this-

If i tap the amp and die the insert, when i go to screw these inserts in, won't I have an extremely efficient conductive connection inside?

I'm just trying to make sure i'm assuming this correct.

I'll probably resin or fasten some Noryl to these inserts so there is no risk of shorting the amp or batts out.

Edited October 28, 201212 yr by shizzzon

It's all about contact surface area. The larger the contact area the better.

From your description it sounds like you want to essentially be able to screw the set screw into the insert....is that correct?

yea, i know this sounds like the best mechanical connection for such a large device protruding from the amp but also, i'm just making sure screwing it in allows a great amount of contact.

I know surface area is king but didn't know if there were small gaps between the threads that could pose an issue in terms of an excellent contact.

Have you asked dr. neal about this? I wonder what would he have to say.

IT's called threading not dieing. LOL. It's doable, butyou have to make sure you start and end your threads perfectly so it seats where you need it to. Not really worth the effort IMO. Run the dual runs into a bolt and have as short a wire as possible into the amp. Simple, cheap and just as effective. You'll gain nothing by doing it differently.

lol.. it's Neil, not Neal and he would tell me how the gases in the universe created the tap, etc.. I don't need to know that.

My runs might be as long as 3ft long and that's too long. My other runs are 8" or less.

i know what you mean about a bolt but 300A surge of current through a steel bolt doesn't sound appealing to me.

You know, SPL done gone crazy extreme. If it's not overkill, it's not right, lol.

My runs might be as long as 3ft long and that's too long. My other runs are 8" or less.

i know what you mean about a bolt but 300A surge of current through a steel bolt doesn't sound appealing to me.

You know, SPL done gone crazy extreme. If it's not overkill, it's not right, lol.

I never said anything about sending any amperage through a bolt. You would simply be using the bolt to tap all runs together. I don't understand your logic either. If you are wanting to run two runs into the amp, why can you not run two right before and into a single wire which goes into the amp. I know about SPL and overkill, and I also know about current. Why waste money time. KISS.

OH, now i see what you are saying..

Because there is no room. It's either insert or no insert, that's why.

Based on the pics i've posted in my build log, if you've ever seen them.. this build is far from having room to do anything easy.

why not open the amp and ring terminal directly to the power supply?

simple ehh

to tap those you would have to drill the insert then insert it into the amp then take the tap and run it throught the block on the amp and into the insert that way the threads will line up correctly. there will be a probability of screwing up the threads in the amps input blocks so i wouldn't recommend this. that is almost the only way you can assure the threads are aligned. why don't you just make a good indent in the insert where the bolt can sit once tightened down so the insert cannot turn and has a harder chance of ever falling out?

Why not just machine the very top of the insert flat so the screw screws down onto the flat surface. It's not gonna turn that way

Or just not tap threads and just make the hole a bit bigger in the insert so the screw can tighten down into the hole.