I have 10 polk audio mm651um ,1 300 watt 10inch soundstream sub, deck is 50x4 watt ,and 1 100x4 sony amp do I have enough power to maximize speakers without doing any damage if so how do I hook them all up. Thanks for any info.

considering that each speaker is 4 ohms, and the aplifier is at best 2 ohm stable, you will need probally 2-3 more amps, 2 more for the mids, and 1 for the subwoofer, its never a good idea to power a subwoofer off a CLass AB amp, Class D is usually the best for power

or you could invest in a better quality amplifier like a sundows SAZ 200.4 or a pair of new Atomic 100.4's

remember ohms law

4 + 4 in series = 8 ohms

4 + 4 in parallell =2 ohms

There is absolutely nothing wrong at all with powering a sub with a class AB amp.

Op, why are you wanting to run that many speakers? In car audio more is not always better, and with mids and highs, less will usually sound better.

its never a good idea to power a subwoofer off a CLass AB amp, Class D is usually the best for power

How on earth did you come to this conclusion?

its never a good idea to power a subwoofer off a CLass AB amp, Class D is usually the best for power

False.

Jud; You need to better describe your system layout and potential budget in order for us to provide any real assistance. Those speakers are marine grade....is this for a boat?

i meant in a sheer numbers game, i should have explained myself more

if he is looking for power an AB amp is not the best way to go for a subwoofer, AB amps have higher fidelity yes, but the class D have more power, you will end up spending 4-5 times the cost on an AB amp to power a sub than you will on a similar class D

i meant in a sheer numbers game, i should have explained myself more

if he is looking for power an AB amp is not the best way to go for a subwoofer, AB amps have higher fidelity yes, but the class D have more power, you will end up spending 4-5 times the cost on an AB amp to power a sub than you will on a similar class D

The cost of a Zenon AB is much lower than D class. Most lower power monos will be AB because they are cheaper to manufacture

i meant in a sheer numbers game, i should have explained myself more

if he is looking for power an AB amp is not the best way to go for a subwoofer, AB amps have higher fidelity yes, but the class D have more power, you will end up spending 4-5 times the cost on an AB amp to power a sub than you will on a similar class D

The cost of a Zenon AB is much lower than D class. Most lower power monos will be AB because they are cheaper to manufacture

really? wow i learn something new every day, i usually have only dealt with the lower power AB amps in the past, under 200w per channel, and their cost was higher than the comparable D class apms, 2 or 1 channel

i meant in a sheer numbers game, i should have explained myself more

if he is looking for power an AB amp is not the best way to go for a subwoofer, AB amps have higher fidelity yes, but the class D have more power, you will end up spending 4-5 times the cost on an AB amp to power a sub than you will on a similar class D

As Quentin already pointed out, that is an entirely false premise as well, from both a fidelity and price standpoint.

Hey thanks for all the response, the system is in a mastercraft xstar wakeboard boat it has 6 speakers plus sub in the boat from factory they were shot. I have four polk audio to install on tower willing to spend maybe 1000 to 1500 just want it to pound and sound amazing, sound is first priority thanks for any response, cant wait to surf again ugg winter.

So you need amplifiers to run your 10 speakers and a amp to run the sub?

I'd get a 4 channel for the tower so you can turn them off independently from the boat speakers.

If the sub is 8 ohm I'd get a four channel and bridge the back channels for the sub and run two of the six speakers on the front channels. And get a four channel for the remaining four speakers.

Hey thanks for all the response, the system is in a mastercraft xstar wakeboard boat it has 6 speakers plus sub in the boat from factory they were shot. I have four polk audio to install on tower willing to spend maybe 1000 to 1500 just want it to pound and sound amazing, sound is first priority thanks for any response, cant wait to surf again ugg winter.

You need a zone controller IMO. It'd drive me nuts in my Wakesetter if I didn't have one. I didn't buy one though, built it from passive volume knobs.

Zones I feel are "necessary":

Sub Level

In Boats

Tower

Having any other mix of volume isn't so great.

Curious if you already bought the gear or not. Lots of cost effective ways to make boats loud. Beware of boat forums as they usually get hung up on things of dubious value.

Nice boat btw. Would have made my list of potentials, but I need as much people space as possible that'll fit in a 24' slip. The 23 LSV is a wee bit too long for the slip, but they haven't noticed.

In my boat I get away with 3 amps. Could actually do it with 2 if I weren't running active.

Thanks m5 for the info I bought all speakers as the ones in the boat were done and the tower did not have any on the tower so ya just new speakers.Any other ideas would be great.I love that pic beauty.

I like cost effective, the tower speakers are in liquid audio double cans the cans are parallel two speakers one possitive one negative per double.

Is there any zone controller or what other equipment do you have on the boat?

Any possibility to return the speakers? For the towers they won't be anywhere near enough if you want to ride a 70' rope and hear tunes.

No I can not return them bought online. My buddy has the same speakers on his supra and they seemed to sound and pound real good, I am kinda a newbie at stereo equipment and install, hopefully I can make this setup work, there is no zone controller I have 1 100x4 amp, 50x4 deck and 1 10 inch sub, six in boat speakers, and 4 tower speakers two double cans i think the two speakers in one can are parellel and same with the other double can.

Budget? Do you need a PA option for talking to your rider?

Sadly I just put my surfboard and wakeboards up in the attic of the garage Towed the BU up to the farm this weekend....amusingly through snow

My budget is 1000$ to 1500$ I dont need a pa system, extremly loud voice haha. The tower speakers are double cans speakers are conected inside can with one red and one black per double.

If you deal with any beginners you'll love the PA option.

Personally looking into something like the Wetsounds 420 or even three analog potentiometers would be beneficial. In general I am SUPER opposed to the "add a line driver" school of thought, but in the case of being able to dynamically balance amplifiers for different zones it is critical. If you aren't pretty competent with a soldering iron doing your own pots won't be so effective. In my boat I don't actually even use a headunit, just a Droid Tablet. I also used cheaper amps. To avoid thermal noise this meant I needed a line driver as well as a way of independently adjusting the output in each zone. I consider the sub a zone since the amount of bass I want is dependent on if I am hanging out swimming behind the boat listening to the towers or in the boat chilling or on plane burning gas.

Plug and play your easiest option is a dedicated line driver zone controller. I've never used one as in general installations they are a waste of money, but you have one of the situations where it can make a lot of sense.

My head is spinin wow! I am for sure going to get a wet sounds 420 looks so cool, as far as amps still a little lost. You sound like you know your S%$# stuff i mean. Cheers