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If you have a 4 channel amp now then why would you switch to a 2 channel? Or did I miss something?

Also, if you have the capability to run an active setup with your headunit then why are you planning on using a crossover?

Do you plan on making a crossover to run the mid and tweeter together or purchasing one that hopefully has the exact crossover frequencies and slopes that you need?

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  • I already have one PA 6.5 and one super tweeter in each door now. I know exactly how it sounds and my current front stage active sounds better than 90% of the passive components I have heard, honestly

  • eggyhustles
    eggyhustles

    LOL People seem to have their minds made up ....yet still ask for opinions i don't get it.

  • These compression drivers from RC's GN should fit in swift's truck no problem

  • Author

Once again. Why so many questions to my question? No I won't run 4 horns, yes I'm running active, no I'm not running passive now, yes I have a 4 channel amp.

LMAO it's just a question

Take 2 of the same speakers, .

Take a 8ohm speaker and the same speaker in the 4ohm version. The 8ohm version has a qts of .50 and fs of 82 but the 4ohm version has a qts of .34 and a fs of 80.

If I wire that 8ohm version to 4ohm does it affect the t/s numbers?

I dont see how you can run an 8 ohm driver as 4 ohms, maybe im missing something.

Good point, he can't.

(2) 8ohm speakers run parallel = 4ohm load.

Does that effect the way the speaker plays at all. Will a speaker have the same quality throughout its freq range if wired that way is the question

Let's back up a second. These drivers you keep referring to as "8ohm speakers." Are these the horns your talking about, or midbass drivers? I was presuming horns since you haven't picked a definite set of horns, and therefore hadn't picked a midbass driver yet.

If horns, then why would you wire two together, as that would create mono--unless you decided to use 2 per side, and 4 total--which makes no sense.

If your taking about using multiple midbass drivers than I retract my previous statement about not being able to do it.

My other point was: if your using your headunit for active processing then it doesn't matter what ohm load anything is, the crossover points will not be effected.

You know if you simply answered my question instead of asking more questions or trying to figure out what I'm doing this would all be much simpler.

What if I want to run my front stage off of a 2 channel amp? Then wouldnt it make sense to run a 8ohm tweeter and a 8ohm mid in parallel at a 4ohm load with the appropriate crossovers in place to do so? And if you did that would the tweeter still play at the same quality as it would if it was wired separately at 8ohms?

No it would make sense to buy a four channel amp, and use one channel per driver. Left horn = 1, right horn = 2, left mid = 3, right mid = 4.

Putting the left horn + left mid on one channel, and using inline crossovers to separate the signal is a bad idea. You wouldn't be able to adjust the power or gain between the horns and mids, and the impedance change would mess with the crossover design. It literally makes no sense at all to attempt the latter.

Its was a real simple question that cant get answered because you are trying to hard too figure out how or what I am doing.

It really is a yes or no question. Does a 8ohm speaker play the same wired to 4 ohms as it does at 8ohms? Forget the crossover point, the power, etc.

You can't wire one 8ohm speaker to 4ohms, but if you could with magic than it would have the same frequency response.

If you wired one 8ohm speaker with another 8ohm load to achieve 4ohms, and the speaker was relying on an inline crossover network that was designed for 8ohms, than the speaker would have a different frequency response due to a change in crossover points.

Your like a whiny kid asking if cars run on diesel, but don't want to hear anything regarding a gasoline engine or diesel engine.

So basically this question that you are asking has nothing to do with this topic, since you just said you won't be using a passive crossover. This is just a general question asking what changes in parameters between a speaker in the 4 ohm version and the 8 ohm version. Which in that case no the frequency does not change. Ohms have no correlation to frequency.

Edited by Miller

  • Author

So basically this question that you are asking has nothing to do with this topic, since you just said you won't be using a passive crossover. This is just a general question asking what changes in parameters between a speaker in the 4 ohm version and the 8 ohm version. Which in that case no the frequency does not change. Ohms have no correlation to frequency.

Thank you, correct it has nothing to do with my topic. When looking at mids I have noticed that the 8ohm version has different t/s parameters than the 4ohm version. One may have a high qts that would make it better for IB and the other has a low qts making it not ideal for IB. I just wondered if you had more than one 8ohm version ran parralel that it would throw off the t/s parameters.

Like I said, it may have been a stupid noob question. Dont know why it was so difficult. Thanks

  • Author

I dont see how you can run an 8 ohm driver as 4 ohms, maybe im missing something.

Good point, he can't.

(2) 8ohm speakers run parallel = 4ohm load.

Does that effect the way the speaker plays at all. Will a speaker have the same quality throughout its freq range if wired that way is the question

Let's back up a second. These drivers you keep referring to as "8ohm speakers." Are these the horns your talking about, or midbass drivers? I was presuming horns since you haven't picked a definite set of horns, and therefore hadn't picked a midbass driver yet.

If horns, then why would you wire two together, as that would create mono--unless you decided to use 2 per side, and 4 total--which makes no sense.

If your taking about using multiple midbass drivers than I retract my previous statement about not being able to do it.

My other point was: if your using your headunit for active processing then it doesn't matter what ohm load anything is, the crossover points will not be effected.

You know if you simply answered my question instead of asking more questions or trying to figure out what I'm doing this would all be much simpler.

What if I want to run my front stage off of a 2 channel amp? Then wouldnt it make sense to run a 8ohm tweeter and a 8ohm mid in parallel at a 4ohm load with the appropriate crossovers in place to do so? And if you did that would the tweeter still play at the same quality as it would if it was wired separately at 8ohms?

No it would make sense to buy a four channel amp, and use one channel per driver. Left horn = 1, right horn = 2, left mid = 3, right mid = 4.

Putting the left horn + left mid on one channel, and using inline crossovers to separate the signal is a bad idea. You wouldn't be able to adjust the power or gain between the horns and mids, and the impedance change would mess with the crossover design. It literally makes no sense at all to attempt the latter.

Its was a real simple question that cant get answered because you are trying to hard too figure out how or what I am doing.

It really is a yes or no question. Does a 8ohm speaker play the same wired to 4 ohms as it does at 8ohms? Forget the crossover point, the power, etc.

You can't wire one 8ohm speaker to 4ohms, but if you could with magic than it would have the same frequency response.

If you wired one 8ohm speaker with another 8ohm load to achieve 4ohms, and the speaker was relying on an inline crossover network that was designed for 8ohms, than the speaker would have a different frequency response due to a change in crossover points.

Your like a whiny kid asking if cars run on diesel, but don't want to hear anything regarding a gasoline engine or diesel engine.

I never said you can run one single 8ohm speaker to 4ohm. I even said 2 of them parallel the first time you said it.

I never said I would run a horn on the same channel as a mid, hell my "example" even says tweeter. not horn but do you honestly think I am that fuckin stupid not to know you cant adjust power between two speakers being run of the same channel. But people do it everyday with components, same thing.

See, you never came into this thread offering any advice or help until you found something to disect or disagree with.

Maybe my question was a dumb one or you just didnt have enough common sense to understand it, But either way you can go fuck yourself and troll someone else's thread.

I can answer you further Swift-

Since this question has to do with a previous thread i was answering earlier, lol..

Don't focus on the final ohm load, which would be 4 ohm, focus on the SOURCE.

The Source is single 8ohm per driver. Therefore, you would obey it's TS parameters regardless of wiring configuration.

The imaging and tuning technique will by far exceed the ability of the TS parameters to throw off the quality of sound you assume to get at any point during or after installation when comparing the same driver, just different coil preference.

  • Author

I can answer you further Swift-

Since this question has to do with a previous thread i was answering earlier, lol..

Don't focus on the final ohm load, which would be 4 ohm, focus on the SOURCE.

The Source is single 8ohm per driver. Therefore, you would obey it's TS parameters regardless of wiring configuration.

The imaging and tuning technique will by far exceed the ability of the TS parameters to throw off the quality of sound you assume to get at any point during or after installation when comparing the same driver, just different coil preference.

Thanks

Or more easily stated a drivers parameters are just that, they are the parameters of the driver. ie, you can't change them by doing something unless you alter the driver. Nothing external can change this. This means connecting them in any way to any amplifier.

The reason everyone asked you questions is you didn't actually asked your question but used an implied, yet off base reference. If you want a simple answer, ask a simple question. In this case all it would have taken is: Do T/S parameters of a driver change if I wire two 8ohm drivers into a 4 ohm configurations?

The answer would be, no.

One thing I think you should do for sure is save some budget to pay someone qualified to help you tune. It'll be worth it.

Everything M5 said

Btw, HLCD's were the best thing to happen to my ears.

Well worth the cost.

Everything M5 said

Btw, HLCD's were the best thing to happen to my ears.

Well worth the cost.

When am I getting a dayum demo bro???

Everything M5 said

Btw, HLCD's were the best thing to happen to my ears.

Well worth the cost.

When am I getting a dayum demo bro???

Whenever you make it to the city

There once a week at least bro..... Got a lady in the Bronx and Brooklyn.... PM sent man

  • Author

Ok,

I bought some ID cd Ultra's with ID mini horns.

So it begins, lol

Awesome, I'm definitely watching.

Where did you order them from?

  • Author

****, haha

Where did you order them from?

x2

****, haha

slow loading... good price you got btw

  • Author

How much space do you have in the door for a mid?

None without doing pods or panels, maybe try a single 8 or single 10. I can go with a sealed bolt on pod or a bolt on IB panel if its a small Neo motor maybe. Looking at 18sounds but the qts is super low

Also does installation under dash need to keep them level off axis facing my shins or tilted up on axis facing my head? After doing some reading I may actually try to get this thing to be loud as piss an still sound desirable to SQ people. I actually like a lot of different music so maybe I won't be so hard headed and try to do this the right way here.

You want them aimed straight forward, towards your shins. They should be basically parallel to the floor. You also want them mounted as far to the outside of the vehicle as you can get. Additionally, the mouth of the horns should be parallel to the back wall, meaning don't aim them towards the driver or passenger. You want to be off-axis to them, that's how they were designed to be mounted. The narrowing part of the horn should be towards the center of the vehicle with the "flat" side of the horn against the outside wall.

  • Author

Thanks!! Looking forward to this. Now I just need to shop mids. I may go with 8's and use my Crescendo's from 80 - 1.6k until I buy what I want. I don't want to rush and cheap out on mids, unless I need to be running a 10in driver to keep up with the horns. I have room either way since no tweeter will go in the door now.

Digging low in the pro audio world usually means a ported enclosure.

Using the Crescendo's at first though makes a lot of sense. Really much easier to find out what you don't like about them before shopping. I know without using them what I wouldn't like, but listening is subjective and until you really determine your baseline it's tough. The horns will be a HUGE, HUGE improvement over those bullets.

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