I just bought a pair of 10" dcons from Stefan on this very forum yesterday. So while they are on their way I'm looking to get a box design for them. Subs up port back. Looking for the most optimal enclosure size using what ever type of port that would work better for me (slot, aero, or pvc port that sticks out of the enclosure itself) with the dimensions I have H x W x D 13" x 28" x 17" tuned to 32hz. Thanks for the help.

Any help please?

Following SSA recommendations for optimal volume, 2.5ft^3 net volume is what you'd like to shoot for.

Plug in T/S specs from: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/index.php/product-information/dcon.html

into here: http://bitpusher.in/?p=portarea to find out how much port area you need.

Then go here: http://bitpusher.in/?p=ported

Then all you have to figure out is your cutout dimensions.

Thank you Stefan

Following SSA recommendations for optimal volume, 2.5ft^3 net volume is what you'd like to shoot for.

Plug in T/S specs from: http://www.soundsolu...ation/dcon.html

into here: http://bitpusher.in/?p=portarea to find out how much port area you need.

Then go here: http://bitpusher.in/?p=ported

Then all you have to figure out is your cutout dimensions.

Good advice there!

I tried using the calculator but dont know whats fs or vent mach. Or how to get then.

I tried using the calculator but dont know whats fs or vent mach. Or how to get then.

Read the instructions again. It says "plug in T/S specs from .... to ....". This is where the fs, qes, and vas from. These are T/S specs.

Input your target vent air speed into the "vent mach" section. It is incorrectly denoted as vent mach when it is really speed that you are inputting. As it notes, 10m/s is low and 45m/s is high. This is the speed at which the air in the port will be excited. Lower the target vent air speed, the larger port area it will recommend. You want to get the lowest air speed possible in the port so that the enclosure functions as a ported enclosure rather than a leaky sealed box.

In my experience, it can be difficult to physically design an enclosure with a low vent speed and a low tuning frequency due to the excessively long ports that this requires. (This is more problematic in small enclosures.) So, you have to compromise port area or tuning. Easiest is port area since this really only becomes and issue as the sub(s) begin to travel a lot.As the sub(s) travels longer distances in the same time (ie you turn up the gain/volume while playing the same frequency), the air speed in the port increases.

As far as sacrificing tuning, as long as you get it to within +/- 2-3 Hz of what you originally planned you'll probably be happy. If you tune to 35, theoretically your setup should peak in output at that frequency. Well thats assuming an ideal environment and cars are very non-ideal environments.

In the end, the modeling that those formulas utilize only goes so far so don't get too hung up on the design aspect when it comes to those calculators. They are great to use as a starting point. But where i've noticed the biggest difference is overall layout of the enclosure (ie sub/port firing direction, port loading, spacial relationship between sub and port, air flow inside of enclosure, etc.). Thats where the real experienced members can help.

So this turned out to be a lot longer post than I expected, but all of this is what i've learned from my experience. Goodluck with the build.

I tried using the calculator but dont know whats fs or vent mach. Or how to get then.

Read the instructions again. It says "plug in T/S specs from .... to ....". This is where the fs, qes, and vas from. These are T/S specs.

Input your target vent air speed into the "vent mach" section. It is incorrectly denoted as vent mach when it is really speed that you are inputting. As it notes, 10m/s is low and 45m/s is high. This is the speed at which the air in the port will be excited. Lower the target vent air speed, the larger port area it will recommend. You want to get the lowest air speed possible in the port so that the enclosure functions as a ported enclosure rather than a leaky sealed box.

In my experience, it can be difficult to physically design an enclosure with a low vent speed and a low tuning frequency due to the excessively long ports that this requires. (This is more problematic in small enclosures.) So, you have to compromise port area or tuning. Easiest is port area since this really only becomes and issue as the sub(s) begin to travel a lot.As the sub(s) travels longer distances in the same time (ie you turn up the gain/volume while playing the same frequency), the air speed in the port increases.

As far as sacrificing tuning, as long as you get it to within +/- 2-3 Hz of what you originally planned you'll probably be happy. If you tune to 35, theoretically your setup should peak in output at that frequency. Well thats assuming an ideal environment and cars are very non-ideal environments.

In the end, the modeling that those formulas utilize only goes so far so don't get too hung up on the design aspect when it comes to those calculators. They are great to use as a starting point. But where i've noticed the biggest difference is overall layout of the enclosure (ie sub/port firing direction, port loading, spacial relationship between sub and port, air flow inside of enclosure, etc.). Thats where the real experienced members can help.

So this turned out to be a lot longer post than I expected, but all of this is what i've learned from my experience. Goodluck with the build.

Hope i get there one day lol because obviously im a newbie with enclosure design and building so im really struggling with what should be a really simple design.

Another thing to consider is when you're calculating vent mach is that you can likely use a much smaller value for your power than originally anticipated.

IE: Amp rated 500watts @1ohm, wired to "1ohm," but the average power will be much less due to a change in impedance across the bandwidth, so one could likely use 300watts or so instead of 500watts, and end up with the same vent mach as originally thought, and have a smaller port.

here what i came up with on torres calc. can you guys check and advice thanks.

since im going to be using my hifonics brz1700.1d amp on this on a 2 ohm load according to amp subs would be looking at about 1200rms i know this would be way to much power but with a smaller enclosure i know the subs would be able to take a bit more power so check this one out to and let me know which would work better keeping in mine the amp i will be using of course being careful with the gain.

.

Edited January 22, 201312 yr by oakteg21

Designing a box smaller to handle more power can be tricky, you are much better off designing the box around what's best for the sub and then turning down the gain on the amp. Listen for funny noises and be alert to any burning smells when you're putting that much power to those subs.

Designing a box smaller to handle more power can be tricky, you are much better off designing the box around what's best for the sub and then turning down the gain on the amp. Listen for funny noises and be alert to any burning smells when you're putting that much power to those subs.

ok thanks what you think for the calculations are they accurate and good? i would like to start the build today so the input would be really appreciated thanks