12 hours ago, nem said:

You guys are killing me with all this lens talk! 

Times infinity!

16 minutes ago, Tirefryr said:

I jut bought 14 Gen 2 Magpuls loaded with Federäl green tips.  You just made me realize my home is soon becoming an ammo stash.

I need to get some more.308 and work out the AR-10 a bit.

 

I found a 25 round magpul for it.  That's a lot of bang in one magazine.

2 hours ago, MKader17 said:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AM4THC6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1463314985&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=ram+mount+bike&dpPl=1&dpID=41cM1YIn2jL&ref=plSrch

I planned on grabbing this one for the bike. It is a lot lower profile.

I thought you bought that one and were using it in your car.  A second mount is super cheap, but if you already got the ball mount....

37 minutes ago, MKader17 said:

Does the camera have flash? Try putting a whit paper in front of the light source and see what that does.

...or not, the stock flash sucks on all cameras, need a hot shoe one.

2 hours ago, MKader17 said:

As far as shifting. It feels like the shifter is not returning to its lowest position. This seems to be confirmed by the indicator.

This may be a bad explanation but, I used to have 3 "full" shifts. Now the first shift only does a half shift, which doesn't move the derailleur hardly at all.

When I shift all the way though it obvious the derailleur is not moving far enough to engage all three.

Get it on the big ring, stop pedaling, get off bike and click it down while pulling on the cable slightly.  Does the cable feel like it is binding?

99% of shifting woes are really a cabling problem.

The f11 shot needs a longer exposure, turn it up.

Btw, there are only 2 reasons I use manual.  One is for the above, the other is when using a flash and trying to make it do exactly what I want.

Otherwise, ALWAYS shoot in Aperature or Shutter lock with your ISO at 100.  

For the above, in manual it is useful to turn the ISO to 100 so that you can see what else the camera changes so you can dial in the shutter/aperature and then get the ISO to approach 100.  

38 minutes ago, ///M5 said:

Get it on the big ring, stop pedaling, get off bike and click it down while pulling on the cable slightly.  Does the cable feel like it is binding?

99% of shifting woes are really a cabling problem.

Can't get it to the big ring

37 minutes ago, ///M5 said:

The f11 shot needs a longer exposure, turn it up.

Btw, there are only 2 reasons I use manual.  One is for the above, the other is when using a flash and trying to make it do exactly what I want.

Otherwise, ALWAYS shoot in Aperature or Shutter lock with your ISO at 100.  

For the above, in manual it is useful to turn the ISO to 100 so that you can see what else the camera changes so you can dial in the shutter/aperature and then get the ISO to approach 100.  

I always shoot aperature priority.

Unless trying to manipulate something as you said.

 

 

1 hour ago, MKader17 said:

Can't get it to the big ring

Ah, your cable stretched.  Adjust the twisty tensioner until you can.

58 minutes ago, dem beats said:

I always shoot aperature priority.

Unless trying to manipulate something as you said.

 

 

If you shot a lot of kids and wanted first and foremost to make sure there was focus, you would shoot shutter priority.  Or things like shooting birds flying etc.  Of course if you have the time to adjust both aperature and shutter in those situations it will be better, but sometimes you have to grab and shoot.

So yes, I agree completely.  99% of the time if you pick up my camera it is in the lowest possible aperature, iso 100, center focus, e/v -1/3, and I let it then pick the shutter speed only.

My wife really needs the multi-point focus though, everytime she picks up the camera it is horribly out of focus.  She also will shoot both boys at once and have one out of focus because she pays no attention to the Av.

2 minutes ago, ///M5 said:

Ah, your cable stretched.  Adjust the twisty tensioner until you can.

I thought you couldn't get to the small which is usually cable bind or shred/bind.

I manually stretch new cables before installing to save on the wicked quick adjustment needed.

Cables also love lube

Silicon is your friend

Sure someone can have fun with those two statements.

Surely, Shirley

1 hour ago, ///M5 said:

If you shot a lot of kids and wanted first and foremost to make sure there was focus, you would shoot shutter priority.  Or things like shooting birds flying etc.  Of course if you have the time to adjust both aperature and shutter in those situations it will be better, but sometimes you have to grab and shoot.

I set the shutter with a collar to never go below a certain speed at times.  If I'm usually in that some I'm usually shooting manual.

 

The controls on the 6D are so nice.  Not having to go through menu stuff is amazing.  I'm not at all fast nor efficient, but when I'm outside my comfort zone(aperature priority) I choose manual.  

pucking hell I love Screamer. Guy's an animal:

 

Try women, Peng...

5 hours ago, ///M5 said:

Get it on the big ring, stop pedaling, get off bike and click it down while pulling on the cable slightly.  Does the cable feel like it is binding?

99% of shifting woes are really a cabling problem.

oOMG I JUST WANT TO DELETE WHAT I ACCIDENTALLY QUOTED ON MOBILE 

3 hours ago, ///M5 said:

Ah, your cable stretched.  Adjust the twisty tensioner until you can.

That is very likely true but, even if I pull on the wire I can't get the shifter to lengthen the cable to the max length 

At least that's what the indicator seems to suggest.

7 hours ago, dem beats said:

Basically 5-90 pounds form <$550.

Another $300 (before my hommie hook up) to get to 125.

 

What do you use the 150 dumbell for?

Boat anchor. Nothing currently.