Going through old computer parts is no fun.

 

Give them out as gifts to random people.

I'd like to know what alloy of steel before welding.

Tell me what year and who made the frame and I can probably tell you.

Adrian it sounds like a suspension in the front might help you. Judging by the pictures of your roads you took a while back. Or maybe just a bigger softer tire would help.

I don't know about the differences of welding, but I think that bikes use brazing (not sure if that is the right word) for repairs and many builds because it does less heat "damage" to the frame. That was just what some ooooold time bike guy I knew told me when I was 16 or so.

Never had a bike nice enough to need a repair that didn't get stolen. I stopped pedaling when my mom left the garage open and someone stole my super expensive (for me at the time) mtn bike.

bike frames and components are TIG welded. you can just look at tye welds ajd see that.

not good steel frames they are grazed. Cheap shifty frames are welded

do they braze bmx dirt frames or vert frames? those take tye most abuse of any bike frame

Those don't take anywhere near the abuse of a downhill frame. Ultra quality frames are brazed, manufactured ones are TIG'd.

Someone raised the headset too far and compensated with too much torque. Add to that no frame saver and some moisture and you found the weakened spot

 

Raise the headset too far?

Pull the stem up too much and tightening the shit out of it to compensate causes both exta moisture and stress on the parts. The combo probably killed your fork tube.

I don't get it.  A weld, especially TIG will be far superior to brazing.  Why braze?

Nevermind.  Google searching reveals many tubes to be too thin to weld properly.  Hmm.  Never thought they were that thin.

Nevermind.  Google searching reveals many tubes to be too thin to weld properly.  Hmm.  Never thought they were that thin.

That's how they get so damn light. Thickness of a few sheets of paper--I think.

 

 

i'm really going to need your guys help designing a setup for my gto. the fuel tank is in the trunk so subs are out of the question so i'm really clueless as wyat i should do. i'm trying to think of the best solution to get the best sound i can with what i have to work with

IIRC it's basically right behind the seat. What about a small infinite baffle setup on the back deck?

J

i like that idea! now i just have to look for compatible woofers

Gotta measure your back deck and trunk space then go from there.

Add in what your goals are and it can be a plan.

J

I'm going to say this loosely, but i want a  smooth sq "based" system. no real peaks in the bass and something that will get loud. i will he keeping the stock Blaupunkt headunit also so i'll probably run the "Clean Sweep" . besides that haven't really put much more thought into it.

I'd say a pair of 8's or 4 6.5's would help depending on their t/s specs. Get decently loud, retain accurate sound, and not be too much of a PITA to install. I would just look carefully at it. Keep in mind it will need bracing or the metal will rattle like a can full of pennies.

J

 

Someone raised the headset too far and compensated with too much torque. Add to that no frame saver and some moisture and you found the weakened spot

 

Raise the headset too far?

 

Pull the stem up too much and tightening the shit out of it to compensate causes both exta moisture and stress on the parts. The combo probably killed your fork tube.

 

I did tighten the stem pretty hard but it failed well below the stem. It had barely any rust. I can't be sure or anything before I got it since it's a used, 20 year old bike. 

New fork and that's that. And I will start looking for a suspension fork and change the steerer tube. 

 

I'm really trying to figure out what caused it so I can avoid a future failure. 

http://www.bikeman.com/KON-P2MTNONEINCH.html

 

I wonder how good are Kona forks...

I'd only need to take it to a machine stop and have it threaded. And for the sake of strength, I will thread exactly as much as needed, not like the broken steerer, threaded almost completely. 

any one ever used a cheap turbo timer like this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-APEXI-TURBO-TIMER-NA-TURBO-Black-Control-Blu-ray-word-LED-Pen-Size-/181116975725?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a2b69ba6d&vxp=mtr

 

 im looking at it for my "new to me" wrecker, it has an old school no computer 5.9 cummins with a 6 speed, it has lots of power. and when i come off the hwy i hit my house, and shut her off most time with out letting the turbo cool off, my other truck i never worried about it, but with this one as hard as i have been driving it i think it may be a good idea

nsfw

http://s757.photobucket.com/user/julietrisler123/media/VID_20111025_011643.mp4.html

nsfw

If you plan on getting an alarm just get a viper remote start/alarm. (I know u have a standard) They have built in timers.

i

 

If you plan on getting an alarm just get a viper remote start/alarm. (I know u have a standard) They have built in timers.

i didnt plan on it.. because it does not have power locks.. and if i get an alarm then i will want to add power locks and that means adding actuators and blah its a nice truck but shit its a 97,  and  i dont own it so .

any one ever used a cheap turbo timer like this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-APEXI-TURBO-TIMER-NA-TURBO-Black-Control-Blu-ray-word-LED-Pen-Size-/181116975725?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a2b69ba6d&vxp=mtr

 

 im looking at it for my "new to me" wrecker, it has an old school no computer 5.9 cummins with a 6 speed, it has lots of power. and when i come off the hwy i hit my house, and shut her off most time with out letting the turbo cool off, my other truck i never worried about it, but with this one as hard as i have been driving it i think it may be a good idea

 

Best turbo timers in my opinion use an exhaust gas temperature sensor. But I see no reason for that not to work.

 

Come off the high-way, use engine braking and your EGT's will drop crazy fast. 

Nevermind.  Google searching reveals many tubes to be too thin to weld properly.  Hmm.  Never thought they were that thin.

Exactly why I put the quality statement in my comment. If you are buying a welded bike it is inferior. Even my old 82 is brazed

Nevermind.  Google searching reveals many tubes to be too thin to weld properly.  Hmm.  Never thought they were that thin.

That's how they get so damn light. Thickness of a few sheets of paper--I think.

Still nutso strong.

i'm really going to need your guys help designing a setup for my gto. the fuel tank is in the trunk so subs are out of the question so i'm really clueless as wyat i should do. i'm trying to think of the best solution to get the best sound i can with what i have to work with

IIRC it's basically right behind the seat. What about a small infinite baffle setup on the back deck?

J

i like that idea! now i just have to look for compatible woofers

Gotta measure your back deck and trunk space then go from there.

Add in what your goals are and it can be a plan.

J

I'm going to say this loosely, but i want a  smooth sq "based" system. no real peaks in the bass and something that will get loud. i will he keeping the stock Blaupunkt headunit also so i'll probably run the "Clean Sweep" . besides that haven't really put much more thought into it.

I'd say a pair of 8's or 4 6.5's would help depending on their t/s specs. Get decently loud, retain accurate sound, and not be too much of a PITA to install. I would just look carefully at it. Keep in mind it will need bracing or the metal will rattle like a can full of pennies.

J

8's IB will be useless as subs.

http://www.bikeman.com/KON-P2MTNONEINCH.html

 

I wonder how good are Kona forks...

I'd only need to take it to a machine stop and have it threaded. And for the sake of strength, I will thread exactly as much as needed, not like the broken steerer, threaded almost completely.

Overpriced, but just fine. Kona stuff is usually pretty good.

any one ever used a cheap turbo timer like this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-APEXI-TURBO-TIMER-NA-TURBO-Black-Control-Blu-ray-word-LED-Pen-Size-/181116975725?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a2b69ba6d&vxp=mtr

 

 im looking at it for my "new to me" wrecker, it has an old school no computer 5.9 cummins with a 6 speed, it has lots of power. and when i come off the hwy i hit my house, and shut her off most time with out letting the turbo cool off, my other truck i never worried about it, but with this one as hard as i have been driving it i think it may be a good idea

 

Best turbo timers in my opinion use an exhaust gas temperature sensor. But I see no reason for that not to work.

 

Come off the high-way, use engine braking and your EGT's will drop crazy fast.

My sled will drop from 1300 to 400F in about 10 seconds. Of course there is a LOT less mass.

any one ever used a cheap turbo timer like this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-APEXI-TURBO-TIMER-NA-TURBO-Black-Control-Blu-ray-word-LED-Pen-Size-/181116975725?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a2b69ba6d&vxp=mtr

 

 im looking at it for my "new to me" wrecker, it has an old school no computer 5.9 cummins with a 6 speed, it has lots of power. and when i come off the hwy i hit my house, and shut her off most time with out letting the turbo cool off, my other truck i never worried about it, but with this one as hard as i have been driving it i think it may be a good idea

WIth modern oils nowadays, I wouldn't worry about it.

Someone raised the headset too far and compensated with too much torque. Add to that no frame saver and some moisture and you found the weakened spot

 

Raise the headset too far?

Pull the stem up too much and tightening the shit out of it to compensate causes both exta moisture and stress on the parts. The combo probably killed your fork tube.

 

I did tighten the stem pretty hard but it failed well below the stem. It had barely any rust. I can't be sure or anything before I got it since it's a used, 20 year old bike. 

New fork and that's that. And I will start looking for a suspension fork and change the steerer tube. 

 

I'm really trying to figure out what caused it so I can avoid a future failure.

What fork is it? I wasn't saying you did it, previous owner.

I know you didn't say I did it. But I did tighten the quill pretty good

 

My fork looks exactly like this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dimension-26-Mountain-Fork-1-Threadless-260mm-Black-/130693801231?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e6df5250f

 

I found a new fork local, for very cheap, going to run it until I can justify the Dimension fork. I believe cutting threads only as much as needed will help strength.

 

The new fork has shorter threads compared to the old one. 

I've been looking at Orange P7's and Voodoo Bizango's for shits and giggles today

At some point buying retro frameset will be cheaper than a fork.

Of course there is always Nashbar. http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_174894_-1___

I can't remember if you had road or canti brakes and that is road. Hell I have no memory of what your bike is.