I just installed a second yellow optima

I have my two amps wired and installed

I have two extra sets of ground,power, and remote electrical taped at the end

I want to be ready to just plug and play when my two new amps come in the mail

I'm seeing 12.6 at stop signs

and hit, but do not stay, at 14.4 when getting on the freeway

the volt meter is wired to the new battery postitive

I'm wondering if maybe I need to charge this new battery some more before i expect 14.4?

It was made 05/12

everything is fused with knu

including the alternator with high current 300amp fuses

big 3 done in 1/0

the alternator is a powerbastards 220 amp, it does 109 @1500 (tested)

any ideas?

-thanks

If you still have lugs on the power and ground tape is fine. That alt doesnt make much at all at idle, if its doing 109 @1500 then at a stop light its probably doing 50 @ 800rpm. Not enough to be thinking it will be able to with stand a load from the stereo. Not sure what your expecting out of it. The regulator will decide what voltage it will rest at, the alt power will decide how much it can hold it there under a load.

The unconnected wire shouldn't be causing any voltage drop. If you haven't charged the battery, then that would be a first step. Though I don't think it's a great idea to have power wires connected to the source with tape on the end....doesn't take much for tape to come loose. The power wire should be fused; pull the fuse so the wire doesn't have power.

Something else that concerns me is Knu's fuse blocks.

Are you using kerfed connections?

If so, place your hand on the conductive part after you've been jammin on it and see if it feels pretty warm to hot.

It should feel ICE ICE ICE cold right now. If it doesn't, much of your drop can be comming from poor manufacturing on their part. Meaning, bad internal connections.

Went for a ride 45mins on the freeway resting at 13.9 now

hopefully after the next ride it rests at 14.4

i think it was just that the new battery wasnt fully charged

It is in the back too

thanks guys

I havent played any music on these new knu fuses yet too get them hot

I just installed a high current fuse holder for the alt to batt (300AMP)

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KNI-11

and a dual amp kit for the 1/0 fuse and 2 4gauge dist block (300AMP+ (2) 150AMP)

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KFX-PK20

for the other weaker amps im using scosche fuses

With the car off you should be at around 12.8 to 13 volts.

Something else that concerns me is Knu's fuse blocks. Are you using kerfed connections? If so, place your hand on the conductive part after you've been jammin on it and see if it feels pretty warm to hot. It should feel ICE ICE ICE cold right now. If it doesn't, much of your drop can be comming from poor manufacturing on their part. Meaning, bad internal connections.

It is a triple small anl fuse holder

Im running (3) 150amp fuses as of today

I took it apart after driving a while and it was very warm but

not so hot that i couldnt hold the metal part of it

I think Im gonna just be like screw a fuse on the alt and

pay a shop for a 6ft piece of 1/0 gauge without a fuse

The only thing I could do is take the fuse out and electrical tape it.... no.

Maybe a shop can do something with the 2 wire pieces i have?

I would hate to buy more 1/0 gauge after I have to throw away this $30 fuse holder

it shouldnt be warm at all, that's what i was wondering and it seems like a trend with their accessories...

I have yet to see an accessory block by them actually perform as expected.

The reason why it's getting warm is because it's building resistance inside of it.

Resistance is building up due to a weak connection.

This is typically caused, by them, from poor wire connection abilities.

So, when you get resistance and heat, you get low voltage issues.

ive got the fuses that came with that dual amp kit mentioned above

I freaking hope those fuses arent shit too

What do you think about connecting the 1/0 gauge i already have

if I take the fuse out

Tape just doesnt seem safe

Edited February 2, 201312 yr by Truconcept

it's really hard to screw up a fuse.. I've never an issue with any brand's fusing.

It's very easy to check for a bad connection. Drive you car and let it get good and hot with your system on. Then use a meter to check voltage directly before and after the fuse holder. Do this at each and every connection point. If you have a bad connect you will see a voltage difference. Make sure your system is on while you check.

yea just dont initially start it up then check, you must let some current flow through to attempt to build up resistance first.

When you measure on the other side of that holder, might want to measure there and at the end of the cable too.