Fi Q 15

Cadence zrs 7000d at 1 ohm, specs below:

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  • 4 Ohm RMS Power: 1 x 500 Watts @ 13.8 Volts
    
  • 2 Ohm RMS Power: 1 x 900 Watts @ 13.8 Volts
    
  • 1 Ohm RMS Power: 1 x 1300 Watts @ 13.8 Volts
    
  • IHF-2002 Peak Power: 1 x 2600 Watts Max @ 1 ohm
    
  • Two Z7000D bridged together - 1x 2600 Watts RMS @ 2 ohm
    
  • Frequency Response: 10Hz - 400Hz
    
  • S/N Ratio: >100 db
    
  • Damping Factor: 100 @ 100Hz
    
  • Minimum THD: <0.03%
    
  • 
    
    Input Voltage: 200 mV - 8 Volts
    
    
    
  • Dimensions: 12.6" x 9.4" x 2.4"
    
  
  

Stock alternator (150amp) and battery

 

I had this system setup with no big-3 and stock alt and battery for about a month before the battery started showing white corrosion on the terminals as if it were over heating and eventually melted the main fuse  near the battery terminal. As an aside, it was 80-90 degrees or hotter when I owned it. I kept running it till a few months later when I sold the system to court a woman (whom I now  have a wonderful child with hehe) and eventually the battery died 6 months later. I now bought that same exact system back and want to know....

 

Besides a big-3 upgrade, whats the cheapest and most logical way to prevent the same problem from happening? Could this happen from turning the bass and volume higher than it should go and clipping? I'm leaning towards either getting a better high performance single Batt up front or a supplemental. Obviously I'm a bit of a novice but would be very thankful for any products or solutions offered.

Edited March 7, 201312 yr by Trisix

It could of happened from using too small of a wire gauge/fuse

Ah, forgot to mention, used 1/0 gauge wiring.

Hmm, How about a more basic question... Does anybody have a solid opinion on an alt/batt setup for my system?

Do you have any pictures of your problem?

Do you have any pictures of your problem?

 

Sadly, no I didn't take any. The white corrosion was appearing on the terminal the wiring went to. The fuse casing eventually melted over time. There was an obvious build up of heat there and when I took it to the local care audio guy he said the fuse was plenty powerful enough, and he ended up swapping in a new one to fix it. I can't remember specifically what he said, but I think it was along the lines of, the battery not being able to handle the power, or it being used then charged during 20-30 minute uses was too much for it. He's a bit shady and a bullshitter so I wasn't sure what to think. When he gave me the new fuse and cleaned things up I just never maxed the system out and the fuse didn't melt, though the battery died and wouldn't hold a charge 6 months after selling it. ( I sold it about 2 months after I got the new fuse) 

 

I know my power consumption is really pushing a single alt/batt stock setup, I was hoping my problem would be n00bish, but rather common >.<

I can't say exactly in your situation, but I just replaced the battery in my spare car because it was old. There was white corrosion built up on the possitive post and it looked like the battery had expanded a bit. I don't have a system in that car so I can't say that would have melted a fuse or not. How old was your battery?

 

I used to run about 2000 watts in my F150 on a stock alt and battery and never had any problems with it.

corrosion is just something that happens when battery terminals arent cleaned regularly. im almost positive that it has nothing to do with your system its just one of the natural processes of an uncleaned battery.

 

been working in an auto repair shop for about 4 years now.

Do you play music with your engine off?

corrosion is just something that happens when battery terminals arent cleaned regularly. im almost positive that it has nothing to do with your system its just one of the natural processes of an uncleaned battery.

 

been working in an auto repair shop for about 4 years now.

Not under normal conditions. I have seen batteries never need cleaning.

Corrosion build up on terminals are from chemical gasses corroding the metal.