ok so im looking to get one of these but im really confused about them. it says they are a mono block amp but yet they have ++ and -- speaker outputs? i want to run two dual 2ohm fi bl 15s off of it and im wondering how to get a two ohm load. wiring them in paralell is a 2 ohm load but some people are saying that its a mono block and it doesnt have ++ and -- speaker outputs and that the picture on the site is just a different one but i didnt think so and i understand how to wire them if it only has single + and - outputs. just very confused on how an amp can be a mono block but have dual outputs? im no wiring wizard..

Edited March 19, 201312 yr by mason_herold

Why did you make another thread?

 

 

I'm pretty sure the only reason it has dual + and - is to make it easier for an installer to put wires in. It just makes it easier and I also used them when I strapped two BC2ks.

http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp

 

 

Select number of subs and the impedance and you will be all set. It will show you the options you have.

yeah i know that! i was just confused about there being double outputs and it being a mono amp. so basically youre saying all four outputs are for just one channel? would i just bridge it then?

No bridging. Bridging is something combining 2 or more channels to one.

 

 

Just use the outter most ones and don't worry about the middle ones.

ok so the same concept  just not actually bridging. what kind of wattage will i see if i wire them down to .5 ohms? cuz the amp is half an ohm stable.

I think they will do around 4300 rms. Don't quote me on that, but I think that is what they will do with the right electrical. What do you have for that?

im going to be getting a 270 amp singer alternator with an overdrive pulley that adds 30-40 amps and probably an optima yellow top under the hood with an xs d3400 or d3100 in the back with the big three. all the wire is knu concept 0 gauge wire.

Edited March 19, 201312 yr by mason_herold

I would do the alt like you are. Put a d3400 under the hood and a d3100 in the rear. Add another d3100 if necessary.

I would look into the diehard platinum batts from sears.

Also for wiring I would go with welding supplies wire. Much cheaper and easier to work with IMO.

Edited March 19, 201312 yr by Bassink

i was kinda hopin to get a battery with top posts for under the hood but i can manage with the 3400. and ive just been buying the knu concept wire off amazon for 1.95 a foot and its pretty flexible compared to other wires ive used. im not usually too picky on prices, but do you know of any diagrams or calculaters for wiring multiple batteries? i know to keep them at twelve volts you have to wire them in parallel but if i only have a single battery up front and in back im not quite sure how to do that.

Is the knu wire cca or ofc?

For a single batt in the back jus run a fused wire on both sides from pos on front batt to pos on rear batt. Same with negative.

Multiple batts I'm not sure.

if cca stands for copper clad aluminum then yes its cca. and fuse negative? i know thats not necessary!

Welding supply has ofc (oxygen free copper) and allow for more current to go through.

Typically cca let's your run up to 250 amps through. Ofc is that 250amps plus.

Knu ofc is like 3.95 a foot where as the 2/0 from welding supply is equivalent and cost around 2.60 a foot. The 2/0 from welding supply says it is rated for 500amps at 50'.

Running the 3500 at .5 ohm at full tilt will draw probably somewhere around 425 amps.

better off just runnin at two ohms if i kept with kmu concept wire?

The amp is a single channel.  I has a few extra places to stick wires, but there aren't any extra channels.  you can't bridged, strap or do anything else with a single amplifier.  They put what looks like extra channels there to make it easier for you to get a bunch of wires hooked up without cramming them into a single set of holes.

 

Do not buy CCA ever.  It is a marketing gimmick.  It is lower performing (greatly) to the same awg copper.  Additionally, aluminum in any form is inferior to copper in all aspects electrical.  The amount of copper plating on the individual strands is there for color appearance more than anything...  Buy welding cable, it is better quality to price ratio than any car audio branded cable.

 

You don't need to fuse the - side, one fuse blows in the circuit, the whole circuit stops current flow.

no pulley in the world will "add " 40 amps to the output of an alternator.

no pulley in the world will "add " 40 amps to the output of an alternator.

thats what the email said i got from the owner of singer? dont ask me! and its not adding to the total its adding to the output at idle.

Edited March 19, 201312 yr by mason_herold

The amp is a single channel.  I has a few extra places to stick wires, but there aren't any extra channels.  you can't bridged, strap or do anything else with a single amplifier.  They put what looks like extra channels there to make it easier for you to get a bunch of wires hooked up without cramming them into a single set of holes.

 

Do not buy CCA ever.  It is a marketing gimmick.  It is lower performing (greatly) to the same awg copper.  Additionally, aluminum in any form is inferior to copper in all aspects electrical.  The amount of copper plating on the individual strands is there for color appearance more than anything...  Buy welding cable, it is better quality to price ratio than any car audio branded cable.

 

You don't need to fuse the - side, one fuse blows in the circuit, the whole circuit stops current flow.

what class of welding wire? class m or k?

welding cable

https://weldingsupply.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?Next::1:UNDEF3718381:OR:terms::PA#A2

 

wiring multiple batts. diagram is like the 5th post down.

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/wiring-electrical-installation-help/387885-how-wire-multiple-batteries.html

i found the site, but thanks for the link anyways! looks like im switching to welding wire!

no pulley in the world will "add " 40 amps to the output of an alternator.

thats what the email said i got from the owner of singer? dont ask me! and its not adding to the total its adding to the output at idle.

The pulley will add around 40 amps at idle.  The alternator only puts out a small percentage of its peak 270 amps at idle so they put a different pulley so it makes more power at idle, For expample so if the alternator is 270 peak it might only put 120 amps out at idle so they put a different pulley so it will make 160 at idle but the output at higher rpms wont be affected much. 

 

Also I wouldnt be to quick to switch to welding wire, depending on brand of welding wire it can be quite stiff, I am using OFC Knukonceptz and love it. But if price is a big deal welding wire will work just as good as long as its not super stiff and you need to make lots of tight bends.

yes im well aware of how it works.. but   idle was no where in the statment,.  just making sure the op understand that 40 amps will not be added to the the 270 amps. as thats the way it seemed he understood it.

dont blow your fi bl's they can take power but the crescendo can also deal alot of power.

Ya i know you know that Jon, was just hoping the OP understood that.

weldingsupply.com is TOO expensive..

 

Go to www.wireandsupply.com

 

Here, i'll even link you to Royal Excelene 2/0 - http://www.wireandsupply.com/category_s/58.htm

 

$2.55 a foot.